Wednesday, February 9, 2022

2022 Hawaii: Big Island-Maui-Oahu - Florida - Golf Tennessee - Civil War West Virginia - Ford Presidential Museum - Toronto Blue Jays - Intl Serra Conference - Montreal/Quebec - Katahdin Woods & Waters - Blackstone River Valley - Governors Island - Stonewall - Maryland/DC - First State - Gettysburg - Perryville - - NGAUS Columbus OH - Chicago White Sox - KY Bourbon Trai - Perryville, KYl


 

2022

The protocols are less stringent
today then they were 8 months ago
 ALOHASAFE TRAVELS HAWAII

The State of Hawaii welcomes all vaccinated international travelers and is aligned with the CDC
federal international requirements.  Non US-citizens traveling directly to Hawaii must present both a vaccination record an d negative COVID-19 test result (NAAT or antigen) within one-day of boarding a flight to the US. 

U.S. citizens flying directly to Hawaii from an international destination have two options: 1) fully vaccinated U.S. citizens must provide proof of vaccination AND a negative COVID 19 test result within one day of boarding a flight to Hawaii OR 2) if not vaccinated, a negative COVID 19 test result within one day of boarding a flight to Hawaii.

Domestic travelers must follow all Safe Travels Hawaii protocols.  To avoid mandatory quarantine, prior to departure, upload proof of vaccination or have a negative result from a Trusted Testing Partner.  All vaccines approved or authorized by the U.S. FDA, and vaccines listed for emergency use by the WHO will be accepted.

SATURDAY February 5, 2022

WEATHER:  1 degree above zero at 0300; 82 in Kailua-Kona, HA Sunrise: Milwaukee                 Sunset: Kona 1818

TRAVEL:   Fly United Airlines - Milwaukee-Chicago-Kailua-Kona, Hawaii  -  Paul and Sarah are accompanying me as guests.  The flight out of MKE to ORD was late by about 45 minutes; the connecting flight in ORD-HNL was also delayed 45 minutes.  Seats were comfortable enough, did not read – watched a special an outstanding Jethro Tull special filmed in 1999 in Holland and a Steve Miller Band concert filmed in 1977 and the Eternals.


Arrived in Kailua-Kona on time at 1420.  A gain of 4 hours.   After a shuttle from the airport to Budget Car Rental there was a wait of 45 minutes just to get to the counter.  Rented a white Impala.  Drove to Safeway for groceries, dinner at Roberto's Macaroni Grill in Waikola Village then checked into Kingsland, Hilton Grand Vacations 

Hilton Waikoloa Village - resorts and hotels and golf and shopping - all in one place





Kingsland view of building from golf course side

Kingsland Hilton Grand Vacations
- Located on the Kohala Coast, Kings Land by Hilton Grand Vacations Club boasts an on-site restaurant, 4 outdoor swimming pools and a hot tub.  .  We have a 2 BR condo facing the golf course. One BR with a KING, the second with 2 QUEENS, 2 baths, full kitchen, living room and balcony lanai on the second floor of Bldg 5.  Large gas grills located adjacent to the buIlding.

Kingsland pool

WIFI Works! – amazing – much faster than anyplace in Orlando – almost like staying at a Hilton Hotel

Dinner at Roberto’s Macaroni Grill located in Queens Market




SUNDAY February 6, 2022

WEATHER:  66 at 0700, clouds in the mountains  Sunrise: Kona 0619                 Sunset: Kona 1819

TRAVEL:  Kingsland – Ascension Mission Catholic Church Pu’ukohol Heiau NHSKingslandKailua- Kona - Kingsland

Kingsland Hilton Grand Vacations - -  nice – a Serenity Pool – Kid’s Pool – Adult Pool – Hot tub – Cold Pool.  This is a very large complex – several Hilton Resorts on one property King’s Land HGVCWaikoloa Beach and Kings Golf CourseKohala Suites HGVCThe Bay Club HGVCOcean Tower HGVC.  Additionally, two medium sized shopping centers Queen’s Marketplace and King’s Shop, not to mention the beach on Anaeho’omalu Bay.


Kingsland map


Ascension Mission
Church - mass in the yard


10 am mass at Ascension Mission Catholic Church, 69-1789 Puako Beach Dr, Puako -  a 15 minute drive north – the church was full  - we were asked to sit in charrs set up in an adjoining yard under shade trees – the Mass was streams to a large screen TV that was set up – about 45 people sat outside – pleasant – however I really couldn’t understand a thing the priest said.




263 PU’UKOHOL HEIAU NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE – My second visit to his site, the first was on Monday January 11, 2016.

PARK ALERTS

·        Reopening Museum and Store Outlet and Providing Scheduled Ranger Talks

       Date Posted: 11/14/2020 Beginning November 15, Pu'ukoholā Heiau National Historic Site will reopen access to indoor museum: 7:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. daily *Interpretive talks: Call to schedule group 10 people or less *Bookstore: 7:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. daily           COVID-19 Mask Requirement

Date Posted: 7/28/2021Consistent with CDC guidance regarding areas of substantial or high transmission, visitors to Pu'ukohola Heiau, regardless of vaccination status, are required to wear a mask inside all park buildings.



Long before the time of King Kamehameha I, a socio-political hierarchy, deeply rooted in spiritual beliefs developed in Hawai'i. This rigidly ordered class system gave power to a small number of ali'i nui (high chiefs) who controlled different parts of an island, a whole island, or several islands. Alliances through bloodlines and marriage further complicated and enhanced the relationships among rival chiefs.

To maintain law and order, a kapu (taboo) system based on religious and practical beliefs was imposed by the sovereign ali'I on all of the population.  The kapu system was extremely restrictive and rigid, with severe, penalties for those who broke a kapu.  The kapu system was in effect for many centuries before it was officially overthrown in 1819, after the death of Kamehameha.

Within this social and religious structure, the political rise of Kamehameha I and the construction of Pu'ukohola Heiau occurred around 1790.  Heiau (temples) took on many forms from simple stone markers such as those used as fishing shrines, to massive stone platforms associated with human sacrificial temples. Large heiau such as Pu'ukohola could only be accessed by the priests and chiefly classes.

Pu'ukohala Heiau
One explanation for Kamehameha’s rise to power is based on the fulfillment of four prophecies that different kahuna (priests) decreed would change the course of history in Hawai'i.  Each prophecy was directly related to Kamehameha either through his birth or his deeds.

A different explanation for his rise to power is based on the political conflict on Hawai'i in the
1780s. It focuses on his uncles as the force pushing Kamehameha I to the forefront in order to protect their own interests.

In the 1780s, the Hawaiian Islands were in civil unrest as warring chiefs fought for control. The island of Hawai'i had its own internal struggle when one of the ali'i nui Kalani'opu'u, died. He passed his title to his son Kiwala'o and named his nephew, Kamehameha, keeper of the family war god, Kuka'ilimoku. Kiwala'o, the new ali‘i then bestowed gift lands to his uncle Keawemauhili, but left his own half-brother, Keoua Ku'ahu‘ula, with nothing.

Meanwhile, Kamehameha felt he should have of a greater political role. Kiwala'o was killed in battle, setting off a power struggle between Keoua, Keawemauhili, and Kamehameha.

Kapoukahi, a powerful kahuna from Kauaii, prophesized that war would end if Kamehameha constructed a heiau dedicated to the war god Ku at Pu'ukohola. In 1791, Keoua, Kamehameha’s cousin, was slain at Pu'ukohola, an event that according to prophesy, led to the conquest and consolidation of the islands under the rule of Kamehameha I.

Pu'ukohola Heiau
The end of the 1700s was marked by increased visits to the Hawaiian Islands by European
explorers. With their trade ships, warships, cannon, and military experience, the foreigners were considered assets by the warring chiefs.

Kamehameha was particularly astute on this point and took captive two young seamen, John Young and Isaac Davis.  Young and Davis proved their courage and loyalty in battle and became close, trusted lieutenants to Kamehameha, aiding in his rise to power.  Their relationship lasted far beyond the battlefield and into civilian life, with Young eventually becoming governor on the Island of Hawai'i, and Davis on the island of O'ahu.

John Young, the stranded British sailor who became advisor to King Kamehameha, also handled the king’s business affairs with foreign traders. As a trusted advisor held in high esteem, the king granted him land at Kawaihae, adjoining Pu'ukohola, for a home.

Young first built a small home near the beach below the heiau. Later, he built a larger compound just north of the heiau.  His plaster-covered stone house was the first Western style structure in Hawai'i.  John Young’s homestead is a part of Pu'ukohola Heiau National Historic Site and is being protected and preserved for future generations.

The multifaceted overthrow of the kapu system in 1819 ended the formal worship of gods and ritual use of the large heiau.  They were abandoned and many were destroyed or dismantled, with only their stone platforms remaining. Their surrounding lands were used for agriculture, ranching, or settlement.

Sunset - Kailua-Kona 
view from Gertrude's Jazz Bar
Pu'ukohola Heiau was designated in 1928 when it was commemorated as a Historical Landmark by the Hawaiian Territorial Government. In the 1960s, the Queen Emma Foundation and the Queen’s Medical Center, the Waimea and other Hawaiian Civic Clubs, and the local community groups were instrumental in getting Pu'ukohola Heiau designated as a National Historic Landmark.

The Queen Emma Foundation donated 34 acres of land in 1972 encompassing Pulukohola Heiau and the John Young Homestead made it possible for the establishment of Pu'ukohola Heiau National Historic Site.  Through an act of Congress on August 17, 1972, this site became one of the chosen few to be recognized as one of our nation’s crown jewels and national treasures, to be preserved and protected for future generations

When there are not many choices it doesn't 
take much to be the best.  Like Fred's .
. . . 








Dinner at Gertrude’s Jazz Bar & Restaurant.  Located
on the beach (seawall) in 
Kailua-Kona; this second-floor venue is one
of the few places that offer entertainment in Kona.  Beverages seemed expensive like Disney prices.  The entertainment was a elderly ‘piano bar lady’ she played piano and sang – not bad but entertaining.




MONDAY February 7, 2022

WEATHER:68 at 0700 a clouds in the mountains,high 82 Sunrise: Kona 0656  Sunset: Kona 1819


Kingsland interior of our 2BR unit





TRAVEL:  Kingsland N on 270 to Hawi – Polulu Valley
Lookout
- S on 250 to 
Waimea Waipi’o Valley Lookout – Hilo
 Brewing Co - SE and S on 19 to Akaka Falls State Park – to Hilo – W on 200 (Saddle Raod) between Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea – N on 180 – NW on Waikoloa Rd – Kingsland



                        


Original King Kamehameha Statue Just beyond the lovely town of Hawi in North Kohala is the small town of Kapaau.  in front of the North Kohala Civic Center stands the original King Kamehameha I Statue, erected not far from where Hawaii's greatest king was born. 

Kohalo Coast



Polulu Valley
Polulu Valley - steps leading down 
to the beach



POLOLU VALLEY LOOKOUT
  52-5100 Akoni Hwy, Kapaau, HI  the most northern of the impressive valleys that are carved into the Kohala Volcano in the lush green pastures of the Kohala region on the Big Island.  The spectacular views and the steep cliffs are worth the trip.  There is an option to hike to the black sand beach at the valley floor.  The hike down the side of the clif to the valley floor is short but steep:  420 ft in 0.6 miles, an average grade of 13% rated as Moderate Difficulty.  It takes about 20-25 minutes of the average hiker, then there is a short easy stretch to the beach.

Polulu Valley Lookout


KAMAKANI TREE- never found it in Waimea supposedly the only tree in the area to survive a wind storm


Waipi'o Valley


WAIPI’O VALLEY LOOKOUT  WAIMEA  located on the Hamakua Coast at the end of the
Hamkau Heritage Corridor, the sacred
Waipi’o Valley was the boyhood home of King Kamehamea I, and an important center for political and religious life in Hawaii.  This is called the “Valley of the King".  A fertile valley one mile across and about 5 miles across.  Once the home to thousands, now less than 100 residents live here among the waterfalls and rivers of the valley.  Hailawe Falls cascades down 1,300 feet in the back of Waipio – didn’t walk down to the valley floor.

 

Akaka Falls
AKAKA FALLS STATE PARK – There is an entrance fee of $5 per person and a parking fee
of $10 for a car.  There is a pleasant self-guided walk through lush tropical vegetation to scenic vista points overlooking the cascading Kahuna Falls and the free-falling ‘Akaka Falls, which plunges 442 feet into a stream-eroded gorge. The 0.4-mile loop footpath requires some physical exertion, a 100 ft increase in elevation (stairs).  This is a good family walk. Allow 1/2 hour for the full loop.  The trailhead is located just off the parking lot. The paved route, which includes multiple steps in places (not wheelchair accessible), makes an easy to follow loop offering stunning viewpoints of the two waterfalls. To view ‘Akaka Falls only, take the path to the left (south) from the first junction. The waterfall view is just a short walk down the path.

Hilo Brewing Co -  closed on Mondays – had a can of Humpback last night, it was flat and tasteless – probably nothing lost by not stopping here.

Rainbow Falls in Wailuku River State Park - another Maui Legend

Rainbow Falls

RAINBOW FALLS is a cascade 80 ft over a lava cave that, according to legend, is home to the Hawaiian goddess Hina, the goddess of the moon.  Compared to its significantly higher (422 ft) neighbor Akaka Falls, Rainbow Falls wins out for accessibility and how close you can get to see the waterfall.  No entrance fee.  Viewpoints of geologic and scenic interest along Wailuku River. There are two separate park areas.  Boiling Pots is a succession of big pools connected by underground flow or cascades and whose waters roll and bubble as if boiling. The exposed hexagonal columns that line the pools were formed by the slow cooling of basalt lava.  The 80-foot Rainbow Falls is renowned for the rainbow formed from its mist many mornings. Legends say that the cave beneath the waterfall was the home of Hina, mother of the demigod Maui.



Onizuka Center for International
Astronomy - internet photo

ONIZUKA CENTER FOR INTERNATIONAL
ASTORNOMY
We were low on gas and time so we did not stop here.  The drive up was in the fog and rain.  Low of 55 degrees. It would have been an interesting visit.  Mauna Kea is celebrated as the dwelling place of the goddess Poli’ahu.  It is also associated with the Hawaiian deities Lilinge and Waiau.  The summit was considered the realm of the gods and in ancient times was kapu (forbidden) to all but the highest chiefs and priests.  Occasionally Hawaiian ail’I (royalty) would make the long trek to the top, the last royal.  The Visitor Center is located at 9,300 ft.  The facility was renamed for the Hawaiʻi-born astronaut Ellison Onizuka, who died in the Space Shuttle Challenger disaster in 1986.  Today Mauna Kea is home to 13 international observatories. 
Poliahu - Pele's sister

According to Hawaiian legends, Poliahu was known to be the beautiful goddess of snow, who lived on the Big Island volcano Mauna Kea. Poliahu was at odds with her sister Pele, goddess of volcanoes, who often caused Mauna Kea to erupt in fountains of fire in spite of her.


Dinner at Tommy Bahama’s 68-1330 Mauna Lani Dr Kamuela, HI 96743 – a 15% HGVC discount on food.


Kingsland view of golf 
course from balcony
TUESDAY February 8, 2022

SARAH’S BIRTHDAY -

WEATHER66 at 7 am clouds in the mountains, high of 82 Sunrise:Kona 0656  Sunset:Kona 1820

TRAVEL:  Kingsland – Kaloko-Honokohau NHP – Pu’uhonua O Honakaunau NHP-  Kealakekua - Kingsland

Kingsland Hilton Grand Vacations – a short visit to the Pro Shop on the golf course, an hour by the pool in the morning -upon return from the afternoon trip – sat on the ocean front of the Waikola Village Hotel complex – watched whales at a distance.



262 KALOKO-HONOKOHAU NATIONAL HISTORIC PARK – My last visit here was Monday January 11, 2016.   

Kaloko-Honokohau NHP entrance - the VC is in the background


Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park was designated in 1978. As described in its enabling legislation, the park was established “to provide a center for the preservation, interpretation, and perpetuation of traditional native Hawaiian activities and culture, and to demonstrate historic land use patterns as well as to provide a needed resource for the education, enjoyment, and appreciation of such traditional native Hawaiian activities and culture by local residents and visitors.” In the legislation Congress further directed the National Park Service to manage the new park “generally in accordance with the guidelines provided” in the Spirit Report. To this day, the Spirit Report remains the park’s primary guiding document

 

261 PU’UHONUA O HONAUNAU NATIONAL HISTORIC PARK My 3rd visit to this site.  My first was in 1980, my last was January 10, 2016.


Pu'uhonua O Honaunau NHP entrance

PARK ALERTS
The National Park Service (NPS) is working service wide with federal, state, and local public health authorities to closely 
monitor the COVID-19 pandemic and using a phased approach to increase access on a park-by-park basis. Based on guidance from the White House, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), and state and local public health authorities, access to the park is as follows:

Open Every Day:

·        Entrance station and fee collection activities

·        Visitor center parking lot (8:15 am - sunset)

·        Visitors services at the visitor center (8:30 am - 4:30 pm)

·        All hiking trails

·        For daytime exercise and outdoor recreational experience

·        Beach and shoreline areas

·        For hiking, ocean recreation and fishing (following state regulations). With the exception of Keoneʻele cove at Hōnaunau which is closed to protect natural and cultural resources

·        Restroom facilities

·        Royal Grounds & Puʻuhonua

·        Picnic Area

·        Commercial Use Authorization (CUA) owners can resume operations if safety conditions are met

Closed:

·        Amphitheater

Suspended:

·        All programs, interpretive talks, and walks

There was a $20 entrance fee per vehicle – after spending all that money to travel to Hawaii 
there are some who still will park outside the gate on the road.  Extending along the lava flats of the Kona Coast, Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park is home to some of the most significant traditional Hawaiian sites in the Hawaiian archipelago. One of the most prominent features of the park is the
puʻuhonua or place of refuge which is enclosed by the Great Wall, a massive 965 foot long masonry wall. Serving as a sanctuary in ancient times for defeated warriors, noncombatants, and those who violated the kapu (sacred laws), the Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau remains a most sacred place to those who step foot on its grounds. The protected waters of Hōnaunau Bay combined with the availability of water from brackish springs provided the ideal location for the aliʻi - Hawaiian royalty - who established important residential and ceremonial sites nearby, an area known today as the Royal Grounds. For several centuries, the puʻuhonua, the Royal Grounds and adjacent areas formed one of the primary religious and political centers within the traditional district of Kona.

Encompassing approximately 420 acres of land that extends through three ahupuaʻa (traditional Hawaiian land divisions), the park contains many other important sites which reflect over four hundred years of Hawaiian history.  Such sites include the historic 1871 Trail, a 1-mile segment of a trail that traverses the park coastline, as well as the remains of an abandoned farming and fishing village known as Kiʻilae Village. Other prominent features within the park landscape include the presence of three hōlua slides. Reserved for only aliʻi class, the dangerous but thrilling sport of hōlua consisted of racing down a steeply sloped course using a narrow toboggan-like sled known as a papahōlua.  These are just a few of the many sacred sites that are found within the park lands.

Two Step Beach - photo taken from Pu'uhonua o Honaunau NHP - literally next door

TWO STEP BEACH – adjacent to Puʻuhonua o Hōnaunau National Historical Park, I’ve looked to this place twice but didn’t know it had a name.  Supposedly the best snokeling on the Big Island.



Painted Church altar
frescoes, vaulted ceiling
ST. BENEDICTS PAINTED CHURCH 
Painted Church entrance
84-5140 Painted Church Road, Captain Cook,
Hawaii Island.   From the outside, the quaint hillside structure, surrounded by tropical gard
ens, seems a perfect fit for the area: Were it not for its steepled bell tower and pointed-arch windows, the boxy church could easily be mistaken for an outsized plantation house, a style popular in the surrounding countryside. Simple white walls meet in a gable under a green roof, and wood lattice—the variety many Hawaii homes still use to conceal under-the-house storage—bookend either side of the open-air front entrance. The church is little changed since it was blessed in 1902.

Painted Church
painting
Painted Church
interior banister

But the outside belies the cathedral inside. Banisters, ringed in faded red and white, look like barbershop poles but are actually tree trunks.  They bear, in Hawaiian language, St. Benedict’s Prayer of Exorcism, and the weight of the vaulted ceiling painted with their palm frond tops.  Six frescoes line the long wooden walls between the windows—the images on the left side represent the “good life,” while darker scenes on the right side are themed “understanding death.” Behind the altar, paint creates the illusion of space. Lofty cloisters and vaulted hallways continue beyond like a hall of mirrors. Geometric domes appear to bridge into nothingness where they meet the church’s more modest wood ceiling, painted like a sky at dusk and dotted with hand-cut metal stars. The effect is that of a cathedral melding with heaven.

MONKEY BALLS - 79-7411 Mamalahoa Hwy,Kainaliu, HI 96750  Tue-Fri: noon-4 PM  you
gotta stop here – just because –
Monkey Balls Goat Balls and Chicken Balls.  Monkey Balls are macadamia nuts wrapped in chocolate; Goat Balls are small pieces of fruit wrapped in chocolate flavors; really can’t remember what was the main ingredient of the Chicken Balls – looked like small droppings.



Monkey Balls store entrance
if you blink you will miss it


LITTLE GRASS SHACK - Mamalahoa Hwy. (Hwy 11), at Konawaena Junction, Kealakekua, Big Island, HI   I checked at Monkey Balls and this place has been closed for at least 25 years.  My first and only visit here was in 1980.  No wonder I couldn’t find it in my last two visits . . . .  too bad nostalgia.

"My Little Grass Shack in Kealakekua, Hawaiʻi", written by Tommy Harrison, Bill Cogswell, and Johnny Noble in Hawaii in 1933.  It’s been recorded many times.

I want to go back to my little grass shack in Kealakekua, Hawaii. 

I want to be with all the kanes and wahines that I knew long ago

I can hear old guitars a playing, on the beach at Hoonaunau

I can hear the Hawaiians saying "Komomai no kaua ika hale welakahao"

It won't be long 'til my ship will be sailing back to Kona

A grand old place that's always fair to see

I'm just a little Hawaiian and a homeside Island boy

I want to go back to my fish and poi

I want to go back to my little grass shack in Kealakekua, Hawaii

Where the Humuhumu, Nukunuku a puaa goes swimming by

Where the Humuhumu, Nukunuku a puaa goes swimming by

I want to go back to my little grass shack in Kealakekua, Hawaii

I want to be with all the kanes and wahines that I knew long ago

I can hear old guitars a playing, on the beach at Hoonaunau

I can hear the Hawaiians saying "Komomai no kaua ika hale welakahao"

It won't be long 'til my ship will be sailing back to Kona

A grand old place that's always fair to see

I'm just a little Hawaiian and a homeside Island boy

I want to go back to my fish and poi

I want to go back to my little grass shack in Kealakekua, Hawaii

Where the Humuhumu, Nukunuku a puaa goes swimming by

 

Captain Cooks Monument stock photo
Captain Cook’s statue didn’t bother walking the 3 mile trail to the site near where Captain Cook was killed.  James Cook (7 November 1728 – 14 February 1779) was a British explorer, navigator, cartographer, and captain in the British Royal Navy, famous for his three voyages between 1768 and 1779 in the Pacific Ocean and to Australia in particular.  He made detailed maps of Newfoundland prior to making three voyages to the Pacific, during which he achieved the first recorded European contact with the eastern coastline of Australia and the Hawaiian Islands, and the first recorded circumnavigation of New Zealand.  Cook was attacked and killed in 1779 during his third exploratory voyage in the Pacific while attempting to kidnap the ruling chief of the island of Hawaii, Kalaniʻōpuʻu, to reclaim a long boat taken from one of his ships after his crew took wood from a burial ground.  

WEDNESDAY February 9, 2022

WEATHER 63 at 0600 sunny and clear – clouds in the mountains – cool, damp and in the 50’s when we reached Kiluaea  Sunrise: Kona 0655     Sunset: Volcanoes NP 1818

TRAVEL:  Kingsland -  Big Island Harley Davidson - Green Sand Beach – Black Sand Beach –- Volcanoes National Park - Kilauea Military Camp

I had visited here in 2016 - an older part of Mauna Loa
lava flows - the NPS Contact Station was under a tent.
Lots of trails to walk.  CLOSED so we didn't stop.

Papakolea - Greeen Sand Beach
Papakolea - Greeen Sand Beach












Papakolea - Green Sand Beach
GREEN SAND BEACH (PAPAKŌLEA)Green sand beach is one of the “once
in a lifetime”
places to visit on the Big Island. Its actual name is
Papakōlea beach and it is one of two green sand beaches in the United States (the other is on Maui)  It was recommended by some of Paul & Sarah’s friends that they met when they were in Carlisle, PA and Paul was attending the Army War College.  I’ve never visited here before.  I always was a bit off the beaten track.

Papakolea Beach is not easy to reach.  First there is the drive to the southern most tip

of the US, then you need to hike 2.7 miles (one way) from the parking lot to the beach.

The beach itself is carved in a 49,000 year old cinder cone belonging to the Maunit a Loa volcano that contains green crystals (olivine) that give the beach it’s; name.  We walked in it took us about 1 hour and 20 minutes – an interesting walk.  I did not walk down to the beach – its not that hard.  I decided to take a vehicle back – it took about 30 minutes to negotiate the rutted and worn roads back to where we parked the car. 


Punalu'u Black Sand
Beach
BLACK SAND BEACH (PUNALU’U) Black
Sand (
Punaluʻu) Beach is a beach between Pāhala and Nāʻālehu on the Big Island of Hawaii. I’ve been here 3 times in the past.  The beach has black sand made of basalt and created by lava flowing into the ocean which explodes as it reaches the ocean and cools.  Lots of sea turtles in the water nearby.

In the Hawaiian language punulu’u means ‘spring (water) diver for’.  Unique to Punalu’u within its aqueous environment is large amount of underground fresh water that flows into the bay.  Legend has it that in times of drought, the ancient Hawaiians would free dive in Punalu’u’s ocean waters with gourd vessels to collect fresh water.

 

Punalu'u Black Sand Beach

260 VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK – My 4th visit here.  Last visited January 7-10, 2016.  I’ve visited all its units and hiked most of the park’s trails.

PARK ALERTS

Following guidance from the White House, Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), and state and local public
health authorities, Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park continues to take measures to prevent the spread of COVID-19. All areas of the park previously closed due to the pandemic are now open, but visitor services are limited.
The following areas remain closed for your safety:

  • Kīlauea Visitor Center exhibits and theater are closed. The park bookstore, lānai, and restrooms are open.
  • The Kahuku Unit is closed Monday through Wednesday, and is open Thursday through Sunday from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.
  • Businesses in the park that meet local and federal public health requirements are open with limited or modified services, including Volcano HouseKilauea Military CampVolcano Art Center Gallery and the park’s non-profit partner, Hawai‘i Pacific Parks AssociationContact the businesses directly for details.

Park rangers are available to answer your questions on the lānai of Kīlauea Visitor Center and via phone at 808-985-6011.“Services are limited, and visitors should bring everything they might need for a safe visit including water, meals, and hand sanitizer. Above all, visitors should pack their patience, avoid crowds, and have alternate destinations planned should parking lots be full,” 

Mauna Loa & Kilauea - Volcanoes National Park


Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park was originally established along with Haleakalā National Park as “Hawai‘i National Park” in 1916, the year the National Park Service was created.  In 1961, the two parks became independent.  Here within the more than 330,000 vast acres of designated parklands you can find two of the world’s most active volcanoes—Mauna Loa and Kīlauea—as well as tiny nananana makakiʻ (happyface spiders), carnivorous caterpillars, exquisite ʻapapane (an endemic honeycreeper), towering hapuʻu fern forests, and the nesting beaches of critically endangered honuʻea (hawksbill sea turtles).  Many of the park’s species are listed as rare, protected or endangered. Kīlauea’s summit area is accessible by car.  The Kīlauea Visitor Center just inside the park entrance is closed as are its interpretive programs, museum exhibits, a park film, reference materials, and guided walks.  A Hawai’i Pacific Parks Association park store in the visitor center showcases books, photography, maps, apparel, and more.   Arrived about 5:15 pm – cool and cloudy – store was closed.  .  A $30 charge per car but I got in with my Senior NPS Pass – the ranger noticed Paul’s military ID – and gave him a FREE Annual Pass good for one year.  NPS might be doing it right, i.e.  considering NG and Reserve as ACTIVE DUTY.  Stopped by the General Store for some supplies.

Kilauea Military Camp – My 3rd stay at KMC.  We’re in a 2 BR Cottage – a disappointment and my error, I thought I had reserved a 2 BR Cottage with Kitchen.  Well, no kitchen and of course it’s a little smaller.

WIFI works.   KMC has its advantages General Store, 10 Pin Grill/Recreation Lodge/Bowling Alley, Post Office, Fitness Center, Laundry Facilities, Lava Lounge (bar), Crater Rim Café (breakfast daily-dinner on weekends), basketball and tennis courts, baseball field, gas station.  It also has a tour and transportation office to include airport shuttles

KMC is open to all Active & Retired military and other uniformed services, as well as; current & retired DOD employees.


Kiluea Military Camp Map

THURSDAY February 10, 2022

WEATHER clear and sunny at 7 am 62 degrees, sunny most of the day, 84 down along the coast, clouded up and in the 60’s as we drove back up to 4,000 ft, rain around 7pm, foggy, clear and 58 at 8pm  Sunrise: Volcanoes NP 0652     Sunset: Volcanoes NP 1818

TRAVEL:  KMC-VC-Volcano House-Desolation Trail-

260 VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

Kilauea Military Camp - front view 



KMC 2 BR Cottage
Kilauea Military CampWIFI Works the price is right (2 BR Cottage $156/ nights with NO 11%
Hawaii Excise & Hotel Taxes) but the cabins/cottages have few amenities i.e. hairdryer, towels, 4 cup coffee maker and a microwave, some hand soap – that’s it!  I thought I reserved a 2 BR Cottage w/Kitchen ($174/ night) but maybe they were already full.  There is also a ‘dormitory (open bay) rate’ for E1-E5 at less than $20/night.  We improvised breakfast with microwaved scrambled eggs-bacon-potatoes.

The Visitor Center was run by the Hawaii Pacific Parks Association and Volunteers.  Except at the gate, collecting entrance fees, I don’t think I saw a ranger during my entire stay.  The Book Store had a limit of 10 people at a time.  Waited to get a park passport stamp.  Volcano House was across the street, unable to make a reservation online, and the only time we could have dinner was a late 8:30 pm.

Devastation Trail from Crater Rim Road to a view point about 1 mile form Halema’uma’u Crater.  This is the closest I’ve been able to get the to crater and it was erupting.  Not majestic spurts or a large lava lake, but still the closest I was ever able to get here in 4 visits.  It was a little more than a 2 mile round trip mostly on a paved road.


Halema'uma'u Crater 
Halema'uma'u Crater - there is a small red lava flow  visible right center
Halema,uma'u Crater is in the background


Lava Slide in an area of lava
flows that resembled the crust 
of a brownie


We drove down 
Chain of Craters Road to the end of the road – a change in elevation ofalmost 4,000 ft and a significant increase in temperature.  The drive is beautiful and we did not stop at all the craters from which the road gets its name.

This lava flow looked like the crust of a brownie 







We drove past the Kilauea Iki trailhead.  Kilauea Iki is a 4 mile loop that descends 400 feet through forest and across a hardened lave lake that it still steaming from the 1959 eruption.  From the parking area it’s actually a 5 mile hike total.  We did not stop at the Thurston Lava Tube. 

My initial intent was to hike the 2.5 mile Mauna Una Trail but I missed the turnoff on the way down and there was not enough time on the way up.

At the end of the road we did not walk to Holei Sea Arch, formed by wave erosion, the same process will eventually cause its collapse.  Been there twice – done that. 


Petroglyph Trail


Petroglyphs


The Pu’u Loa Petroglyph Trail was a 1.5 mile hike – a little more than an hour.

Somehow, I had forgot to make a reservation at the Volcano House for dinner.  They were full until 8:30 pm so we ate at the Crater Rim Café.  We’ve eaten here before, a short drive out of the park.  Service was as best as could be expected i.e. 2 waitresses – could have used 4 or 5.  Food was good.





Petrogyph Trail
Lava - like Pele's hair

Sulphur Banks

Paul and Sarah went to the
Sulphur Banks and Steam Vents – two short walks

After dinner we drove down to the Volcanoes Observatory and the ‘glow’ from Halema’uma’u Crater was outstanding.  Best I’ve ever seen possibly helped by reflection off the low clouds. However, it was windy and 58 degrees.

Paul and Sarah decided they were going to go view Halema’uma’u Crater at the viewing point on  Devastation Trail – where we were in the morning.  Their photos and videos tell me it was worth the hike in the dark.




Halema'uma'u Crater lava flow daytime


Halema'uma'u Crater lave flow at night
photo from about the same place as
the photo to the left was taken










Halema'uma'u Crater "glow" from the vicinity of the Volcano Observatory



The Hawaiian goddess Pele



FRIDAY February 11, 2022

WEATHER  51 at 0600 at KMC  Sunrise: Volcanoes NP 0651    Sunset: Kihei, Maui 1821


TRAVEL:  Southern Airways/Mokulele Airways Hilo (ITO) LV 1035 AR 1134 Kahului (OGG) Maui;  Thrifty Car Rental - Maui Bay Villas




"da plane, da plane"
Akaka Falls















The flight on Moukele Airlineswas on a 10 passenger single engine airplane.  I’ve flown on this before in 2016 from Kona to Maui to Molokai to Oahu.   Leaving Hilo the plane flew along the Kohala coast.  If you were sitting on the left side of the plane you could see Akaka Falls and the Polulu and Waipio'o Valleys. 

Mauna Kea from the air


Waiipo Valley from the air
there is a road/path that leads down
to the valley from  the left
       


I let Paul rent the car here and drive.  We left the airport too late to get the Healeakala Visitor Center Bookstore by 2 pm.  So we went to Safeway to buy groceries.



Maui Bay Villas HGVC
– 
WIFI Works!  heavenly – only one building completed with 21 units – very lucky to get this – this is a fantastic place to be – 3 pools – not tub – no people.  I think Paul & Sarah would be content just to stay here and not go anyplace else. 




Maui Bay Villas Club House


The staff here was very accommodating.  The room was not ready.  They asked if we had bought groceries and offered to put them in a large refrigerator.  We had bought groceries, so we did.  They also offered a large cabana with TV for the Super Bowl on Sunday.  Paul & Sarah bought in – it was free.  This place is so new – there is no bar – no restaurant – bring your own drinks to the pool.  Actually, this place did just open in October, 2020. 

The room is outstanding.  The best Hilton I’ve been at so far.



Cubano Sandwich
at Nula's

Nalu's

A wonderful lunch at
Nula’s and a brief visit to Maui Brewery.  The room was ready at 4 pm and we checked in at 5:15.  The groceries were already delivered to the room and put in the refrigerator.





SATURDAY February 12, 2022

WEATHER  63 degrees at 6 am - 50's on Haleakala summit - high of 80 in the lowlands Sunrise: Kihei, Maui 0656    Sunset: Kihei, Maui 1822

TRAVEL:  Maui Bay Villas – Haleakala National Park – Summit VC Bookstore – Kilului Ale House -  Maui Bay Villas


264 HALEAKALA NATIONAL PARK – My last visit here was January 12-13, 2016.

Island of Maui 


PARK ALERTS
Summit District:

Headquarters Visitor Center –temporarily closed it was closed when I was here in 2016  Located above the park entrance at 7000 ft. (2134 m).  Haleakalā Visitor Center–Open 7 days/week 9:00-2:00pm for park store operation only.  Located on the edge of the Haleakalā crater at 9,740ft (2969m).

Kīpahulu District:

Kīpahulu Visitor Center–temporarily closed this was open in 2016, will visit on Saturday February 12  -  Located at the coastal Kīpahulu District.


Māui Snaring the Sun  
The Māui myths are known to many cultures throughout the pacific. His most famous deeds include fishing up islands, obtaining fire, and snaring the sun.  The version told here in Hawaiʻi of Māui capturing and slowing ka lā (the sun) involves Hale-a-ka-lā, the house-of-the-sun.  The natural phenomena of the sun’s movement across the sky is explained in the Hawaiian mo‘olelo of Māui snaring the sun.

Long ago the sun ran quickly across the sky. There was hardly any time to prepare and cook food, and even a prayer to the gods could not be finished before darkness fell. Māui’s mother Hina had trouble drying her kapa, the bark-cloth that was the only source of clothing and bedding in Hawaiʻi.  Kapa is created from the bark of the wauke plant, beaten and processed. Before it can be worn it must be dried in the sun, and the sun passed over so quickly that by the time Hina had laid it all out, it was dark and she had to gather them back up again.


Haleakala Crater

Māui decided to make the sun go slower, so he climbed to the top of the ridges of Iao valley to track the path of the sun.  He saw that the sun came up the eastern side of Haleakalā, and crossing the plain and climbing the mountain he watched the sun come up from Koʻolau, and passed over the top of the mountain.  After figuring out the path of the sun Māui returned to his mother Hina and told her of his plan to slow down the sun. She gave him fifteen strong cords and told him to find the place where a large wiliwili tree grows on Haleakalā, that is where his grandmother lives, and the sun stops there to eat bananas cooked by his grandmother.  He must wait until the rooster crows three times, and when his grandmother comes out to prepare the bananas, he must steal them.

Haleakala - road to the summit
When she looks for them she will find him, and when he identifies himself as the son of Hina she will help him. 

Māui climbed back up Haleakalā to Kaupō and found the wiliwili tree.  After the rooster crowed he saw his grandmother come out with a bunch of bananas.  She laid them down as she went about her preparations, and Māui stole the bananas easily, as his grandmother was blind.  When she reached for them and found them gone she cried out, and though blind she sniffed around and scented a man, asking who was there. Māui replied that he was the son of Hina, and he’d come to kill the sun for going too fast that the kapa Hina made did not have time to dry out.

His grandmother gave him another cord, and a stone for an adze, and gave him instructions for how to capture the sun.  Māui hid by the wiliwili tree to wait for the sun to arrive.  As the sun’s legs came into view Maui snared them one by one. When the sun realized what was happening it tried to go back down the mountain into the sea, but Māui tied the cords to the wiliwili tree and hauled the sun back up.  Māui struck the sun with the adze until the sun begged for it’s life, promising to go slower.

A drive to the top of Haleaka and back down.  A road that goes above the clouds.   There is an entrance fee to get into Haleakal National Park.



Haleakala view from the road

Haleakala Crater


Haleakala Crater from the Visitor Center

Haleakala Summit Observation Building  10,023 feet 'rare air'


Nene - NPS photo
The nene, or Hawaiian goose, were extirpated (wiped out) from Maui by the 1890s. They
were reintroduced to Haleakala via the release of captive-raised birds. In 1962, nene from England and the Island of Hawai‘i were delivered to Maui and were carried into the crater by park rangers and naturalists and Maui Boy Scouts. They strapped on boxes holding geese and hiked 9.8 miles to Paliku where the geese were temporarily released in an open-top pen until they adapted to their surroundings. About 500 nene were released in Haleakala National Park between 1962 and late 1970s. Today, there are about 250-350 nene in the park. The nene has been the official State Bird of Hawai‘i since 1957 and was put on the Federal endangered species list in 1967.


We started on the road to Hana – s spellbindingly gorgeous highway that will take you over more than 50 (usually one-way) bridges and around 60 curves (sometimes room for only 1½ vehicles).  Some of the waterfalls require serious hiking, others are easy.

Twin Falls - kids are jumping from the 
ledge on the right into the pool

Twin Falls path - bamboo
















Red Sand Beach -
the hike down is deemed 'dangerous'
internet photo
From the list below we only visited Twin Falls.  I had visited the rest in the past except for Red Sand Beach in Hana which is described as a very dangerous path to get to.  There wasn’t enough time.  The drive up to Haleakala is half-day trip in itself. 

TWIN FALLS MAUI  WATERFALL -  6300 Hana Highway, Haiku HA
BAMBOO FOREST HIKE – 8310 Hana Highway, Haiku, HA
PUA’A KA’A ROAD SIDE PARK & WATERFALL – Hana Highway, Haiku HA
HAHAWI FALLS
WAI’ANPANAPA STATE PARK
KAHALULU RED SAND BEACH – Hana, HA
WAILUA FALLS – Hana Highway
264 HALEAKALA NATIONAL PARK –KIPAHULA VISITOR CENTER
    Pipiwahi Trail
    Waimuku Falls

Lunch at the Ale House in Kilului.


Maui Bay Villas
entertainment

Maui Bay Villas
she danced while the 
musicians played
Maui Bay Villas had entertainment on the patio.  A woman playing ukulele, a guy on bass and a hula dancer.  They were excellent.  Played Little Grass Shack and Over the Rainbow.  Later followed by a 10 minute pitch from a ATV adventurer.













Maui Bay Villas - a whale of a tail
Yes, that is a humpback whale diving - view from the beach 


Maui Bay Villas
that is a sea turtle in the center resting on the rocks near the beach
 

SUNDAY February 13, 2022

WEATHER  66 degrees at 0600 , clear & sunny, high of 80  Sunrise: Kihei, Maui 0655                    Sunset: Kihei, Maui 1822

TRAVEL:  Maui Bay Villas – St. Therese Catholic Church - Safeway – USPS -  Maui Bay Villas

St. Therese Church - Kihei, Maui Hawaii


10 am mass at St. Therese Catholic Church, 25 W. Lipoa St, Kihie, HA – a 1.4 mile drive.  Today was World Marriage Day – the priest gave a blessing to all married couples at the end of mass. 


 




Maui Bay Villas 
Super Bowl Cabana

Maui Bay Villas 
Super Bowl Cabana - with refrigerator
BYOB



Maui Bay Villas – watched SUPER BOWL, in a cabana
around the pool.  55” TV, refrigerator, they served complementary water and juices as the game began and ice cream at halftime.











Maui Bay Villas pool
Maui Bay Villas sunset on beach

MONDAY February 14, 2022

VALENTINE’S DAY

WEATHER 63 at 0700 – high  of 79 sunny with scattered clouds.   Sunrise: Kihei, Maui 0655          Sunset: Honolulu, Oahu 1829

TRAVEL:  Maui Bay Villas – Lahaina – Kilului  (OGG) – Honolulu (HNL) on Hawaiian Airlines – taxi to Grand Waikikian HGVC – Hale Koa – Grand Wakikian


Maui Bay Villas –  WIFI Works This is the best Hilton property I’ve ever stayed at even though it is not completely finished.  This is serene, in five years I’m sure it will be hectic and people everywhere – so I decided to chance an ‘owners update’.  Hopefully the staff will respect my time and only take an hour of it for a $150 VISA Gift Card.

Maui Bay Villas - from the clubhouse
our building (#8) is to the right.
Buildings under construction
 are to the left and center

HGVC Owner’s Updat
e
– I took the bait for a one-hours ‘update’ presentation.  I must admit this was the only ‘update’ I had ever been to where the sales person respected my time and knew that I was really not interested.  However, Maui Bay Villas, will no doubt, be a very desirable property and will probably more difficult to book in the future.  It wasn't easy to get here this time - just lucky.   The deal to buy in only gave you first choice and a guaranteed reservation here during your time period.  As an example there is only a 10 week Gold, May, September and the first 2 weeks of October.  The rest of the year is considered  Platinum (high end & demand).  The deal was every other year- Gold (6300 points) – for approximately $29,990 (pre-construction price) plus closing costs of $822.  Down payment of $3821; Leaving a balance of $26,991 less a $1,500 owner discount plus an annual maintenance club dues fee of about $2,362 per year.  Started at 0900 done at 1000.  I did take the $150 in VISA gift cards.

Thanks to a respectful sales person, we were able to visit Lahaina – could have easily spent several hours there – shopping and eating.


Lahaina - Front St
you can easily spend 
several hours walking 
this street - shopping
LAHAINA – it was in the plan but Super Bowl trumped out – so a 40 minute drive to Lahaina – parking – and a 45 minute visit.  In days of native rule Lahaina was the royal capital of Maui Loa, aliʻi nui ("high chief") of the island of Maui, after he ceded the royal seat of Hana to the ruler of Hawaii Island. In Lahaina, the focus of activity is along Front Street, which dates back to the 1820s.  It is lined with stores and restaurants and often packed with tourists.  The Banyan Court Park features an exceptionally large banyan tree planted by William Owen Smith on April 24, 1873, to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the arrival of Christian missionaries.  It is also the site of the reconstructed ruins of Lahaina Fort, originally built in 1832.   It is the largest Banyan Tree in the United States.

Lele was an ancient name of Lahaina. The Hawaiian language name Lā hainā means "cruel sun", describing the sunny dry climateLahaina's historic district averages only 13 inches of rain per year, much of which occurs from December to February.


Lahaina - Missionaries

Lahaina - Banyon Court Park
In 1795, before unification of the islands, the town was conquered by Kamehameha the Great Lahaina was the capital of the Kingdom of Hawaii from 1802 to 1845.  King Kamehameha III, son of Kamehameha I, preferred the town to bustling Honolulu.  He built a palace complex on a 1 acre island Mokuʻula surrounded by a pond called Moku Hina, said to be home to Kiwahine, a spiritual protector of Maui and the Pi'ilani royal line, near the center of town.  In 1824, at the chiefs' request, Betsey Stockton started the first mission school open to the common people.  It was once an important destination for the 19th-century whaling fleet, whose presence at Lahaina frequently led to conflicts with the Christian missionaries living there.  On more than one occasion the conflict was so severe that it led to sailor riots and even the shelling of Lahaina by the British whaler John Palme in 1827.  In response, Maui Governor Hoapili built the Old Lahaina Fort in 1831 to protect the town from riotous sailors.

Lahaina - Molokai is in the distance


Lahaina was the capital of the from 1820 to 1845, when the capital was moved back to Honolulu.  In the 19th century, Lahaina was the center of the global whaling industry, with many sailing ships anchoring at its waterfront.



Honolulu Airport




Flew on a real jet from Kilului (OGG)to Honolulu (HNL) (Hawaiian Airlines).




Grand Waikikian HGVC located within the Hilton Hawaiian Village Complex and next to the Hale Koa Resort.  A 2 BR condo, this is a high rise structure, near Waikiki Beach but not an ocean front building.  WIFI Works!   Self-parking is available for $55 plus tax per day.  The room was on the 17th floor with a partial view of the water.  The placement of the room was better than expected.  The interior, as expected was standard for a Hilton 2 BR property.


Hilton Hawaiian Village


Hilton Hawaiian Village - map  We stayed at the Grand Waikikian 17th floor - 39 floors total.
Huge complex - Hale Koa much more intimate and it is still big

Barefoot Bar
Hale Koa
Barefoot Bar
Valentines Day
Walked to the Hale Koa with the idea of getting something to eat.  It
was 1635.  We just
missed Happy Hour at Biba's– ended at 1630 and seating for dinner did not begin until 1700 – walked to the
Barefoot Bar.  This was the least crowded that I have ever seen the place.  No seating at the bar and self-service.  Easily got a table and ordered food from Hale Koa’s Poolside Grill.  Another sunset on the beach.  Later stopped by the Exchange

Groceries were ordered on line from Safeway and delivered to the bellman at the Grand Waikikian – because alcohol was ordered Paul went down to the bell stand to show an ID.  The bellman delivered the groceries to our room.

Sunset - Waikiki Barefoot Bar

Sunset - Waikiki Barefoot Bar












TUESDAY February 15, 2022

WEATHER 68 degrees at 0600 forecast high of 79, of course it was sunny with scattered clouds, but then short intermittent showers came and went all morning – more pleasant in the afternoon                   Sunrise: Honolulu, Oahu 0701                 Sunset: 1829

TRAVEL:  Grand Waikikian HGVC – walked to grocery store – Grand Waikikian Village

Hilton Hawaiian Village
Hau Tree Bar on the beach
Hilton Hawaiian Village Complex
Grand Waikikian is to the right
Grand Waikikian HGVC
WIFI Worksjust hung out here – a lazy day –
the pool is very small for as many people they have in the adjoining hotel complex – i.e. I couldn’t find a chair – but then again the beach if pretty big – lots of room for people who want to sit in the sand.   If you want to rent an umbella the cost is $38.80 plus $22.80 for chaise lounge or $84.40 for an umbrella and two chaise lounges for the day.

Hilton Hawaiian Village Sunset
 

WEDNESDAY February 16, 2022

Grand Waikikian Balcony 17th Floor
Unfortunately, the 'Rainbow Tower'
blocks the sunset at this time of year
WEATHER  67 and partly cloudy at 0600 – this is cool for Hawaii – high in the 70’s cold air
coming from the north   
Sunrise: Honolulu, Oahu 0701             Sunset: 1830

TRAVEL Paul & Sarah left at 0700 - rented a car for a day and drove to Kualoa Ranch.  I stayed near the hotel.  After the tours I was picked up and he drove to Hickham Air Force Base for dinner with a couple they met while they were at the War College in Pennsylvania.

Grand Waikikian HGVC – WIFI WorksI think I’ve figured out why the pool is so small – it’s almost always in the shadow of the surrounding buildings – an architectural planned design – gets people on the beach – there is more sun on my 17th floor balcony during the day.  Spent the mroning updating the blog and editing pictures.


KUALOA RANCH

Kualoa Ranch


Kualoa Ranch Jurassic Tour - Our deluxe 2.5-hour Kualoa Jurasic Adventure Tour takes guests to famous film sites in all three valleys of Kualoa Ranch (Kualoa, Hakipu’u & Ka’a’awa Valleys). This jungle adventure Tour is approximately 2 1/2 hours long.  This Kualoa Ranch guided tour visits film sets from Jurassic World, Jurassic World Fallen Kingdom, and even a visit to the iconic field from the original Jurassic Park movie.  Kualoa Jurassic Valley Tour includes transportation on a 16-passenger custom, open-air, Jurasic exploring vehicle. Enjoy breathtaking views of Kualoa's own Jurassic Valley and relive the authentic Jurasic Park experience!




Kualoa Ranch - site of some scenes in the Jurassic Park films - but not the original

 

Kualoa Ranch
Kualoa Ranch ATV Tour - Kualoa's multi-passenger Raptor vehicles are an excellent way to experience Kualoa up close and personal! Throughout this guided ATV Tour, you will drive your very own personal Raptor! Please keep in mind the tour guides WILL NOT mix other guests from different parties together for a more personalized Kualoa Valley tour. Have a larger party? Don't worry, each designated Raptor vehicle can accommodate between two to six guests. Here in Kualoa we often get rain, so please dress accordingly, and note that our tours go out rainfall or sunshine. Be ready for a possibly muddy Raptor off-road adventure. Muddy terrain is often a good-sign that there will be breathtaking waterfall views.

 

We had dinner at the home of the Commander of the 402nd Army Field Sustainment Brigade, a War College classmate of Paul''s.  His HQ is lcoated at Fort Shafter with units in Okinawa, Guam, Alaska and California.  As a matter of coincidence his wife was in Paul's OCS class at Fort Benning, she retired as a Major. Fort Shafter is the home base of the United States Army Pacific Command, the Major Command of US Army Forces for the Pacific Region, and the Army Corps of Engineers Pacific Ocean Division. Hickham is home to the 15th Wing (15 WG) and 67 partner units including Headquarters of Pacific Air Forces (PACAF), Hawaii Air National Guard and the 154th Wing (154 WG) of the Hawaii  Air National Guard.  The Air Mobility Command's 515th Air Mobility Operations Wing (515 AMOW) provides tactical and strategic airlift within the Pacific region.

Low Country Boil
Internet photo
Dinner was a "Low (Country) Boil" - never had that before but figured it was seafood - actually
pretty good.  The recipe is below:

1/2 cup Loiusiana style shrimp boil seasoning 
4 lbs of small potatoes
2-3 sweet onions
3 1/2 lbs of cured smoked pork sausage links, cut into 2-3" pieces
8 ears of corn cut in half
4 lbs of cooked shrimp    Adjust according to the number of people your serving.
  1. Fill a 7-gallon stockpot halfway with water (or use 2 large pots and divide the ingredients between them). Add the seasoning and bring to a rolling boil. Add the whole potatoes to the pot. Allow the water to return to a boil and cook 5 minutes. Add the onions and sausage. Bring the water back to a boil and cook 15 minutes. Add the corn, bring the water back to a boil and cook 10 minutes, or until the potatoes are done. Add the shrimp, bring the water back to a boil and cook until the shrimp turn pink, about 3 minutes. Drain through a colander; discard the liquid. Serve on newspaper or a platter

THURSDAY February 17, 2022

WEATHER  68 at 0700 highof 80 sunny and clear  Sunrise: Honolulu, Oahu 0700             Sunset: 1830

TRAVEL:  another car rental dayHUI you rent the vehicle on line, by the hour,  pick it up at a nearby garage, you access the car from yur phone, includes a gas card which allows use to use once a day, return the car to the space in the garage with at least 1/4 tank of gas .  Grand Waikikian – World War II Valor in the Pacific National Monument – Disney Alulani Resort – Grand Waikikian

Grand Waikikian HGVC – between 9am and 2pm both the hot and cold water and AC was shut off for a maintenance upgrade. This is perhaps not the friendlisest place in the islands.  Kingsland on the Big Island of Hawaii and Maui Bay Villas on Maui were less high-rise.  Staff here is very friendly and courteous but like some ball park stadiums - this is located downtown.

Pearl Harbor Historic Sites
include the USS Arizona,, USS
Bowfin, exhibits and a museum
266 WORLD WAR II VALOR IN THE PACIFIC NATIONAL MEMORIAL -  not my first visit here but it may be my last . . .

PARK ALERTS

Masks Required at Pearl Harbor National Memorial & Visitor Center

Consistent with CDC guidance regarding areas of substantial or high transmission, all visitors, regardless of vaccination status, are required to wear a mask inside all park buildings and on park grounds.

The Pearl Harbor Visitor Center is open seven days a week from 7:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.  The visitor center, two museums, and USS Arizona Memorial program are free for all visitors.

 

USS Arizona Memorial - NPS Photo
USS ARIZONA MEMORIAL - been here - done that - no need to visit again - No Fee - but if
you wish to visit you must make a reservation on-line  

Please plan to arrive on site 1-hour before your program time and check into the theaters 10-minutes before your reserved program time. U.S. Navy vessels leave on time, any unused seats may be offered to those waiting for standby availability.  Programs to the USS Arizona Memorial run about 45 minutes, and include:

·        A boat ride to the memorial

·        Fifteen minutes at the memorial

·        A boat ride back to the Pearl Harbor Visitor Center

267 HONOULIULI NATIONAL MONUMENT still not open to the publicHonouliuli was announced as a National Monument on February 19, 2015 by President Barack Obama.   I did not find a passport stamp at the Pearl Harbor stamp desk, I believe I did in 2016.   

According to the current National Park Service website “…Honouliuli National Monument will be closed to the public for several years while the National Park Service works in partnership with community stakeholders to plan the site.’

 

Honouliuli's Internment Compound - NPS Photo

Honouliuli National Historic Site is located on land that, during World War II, served as the largest and longest-used confinement site in the Hawaiian Islands for US citizens and residents of Japanese and European ancestry arbitrarily suspected of disloyalty following the attacks on Pearl Harbor.


Run by the U.S. Army and opened in March 1943, Honouliuli was both a civilian internment camp and a prisoner of war camp with a population of approximately 400 internees and 4,000 prisoners of war over the course of its use. The 160 acre internment camp contained 175 buildings, 14 guard towers, and over 400 tents. Internees referred to Honouliuli as Jigoku-Dani ("Hell Valley") because its secluded location in a deep gulch trapped heat and moisture and reinforced the internees' sense of isolation and unjust imprisonment.


An aqueduct separated prisoners of war
from internees at Honouliuli Internment
Camp. The aqueduct provided
water for both internment and
 prisoners of war camps - NPS Photo
Honoouliuli's Civilian Mess Site - NPS Photo

The majority of Honouliuli's civilian internees
were American citizens—predominantly Japanese Americans who were citizens by birth—suspected of disloyalty. They included community, business, and religious leaders. The remaining group comprised predominantly German Americans, though there were also Americans and aliens of Italian, Irish, Russian, and Scandinavian descent.

 

  

Stitch
Lilo & Stitch

AULULANI – A Disney Resort  A visit here was my idea I just had to visit the store to see if I could get any Lilo and Stich items that weren't available at other Disney outlets.

“Aulani” means “messenger of a chief.” Here, you'll discover the legends of the Hawaiian islands. 

Aulani Resort opened in August 2011. A major expansion project was completed in fall 2013, offering families even more to enjoy!  A Disney Vacation Club, available through RCI.

 

 



Aulani Resort - also a Disney Vacation Club - I think I would like to stay here
through an RCI exchange but those are hard to get.  This is much more laid back
and quiet compared to Waikiki.

Lunch across the street at the Monkey Pod Kitchen was delicious.  A singer/guitarist provided luncheon entertainment.

Hale Koa Luau - this is my 3rd luau here 

FIRST COURSE

Hale Koa Garden Luau - stock photo

Mesclun Salad with Papaya Seed Dressing 
Poi
Fresh Pineapple

MAIN COURSE (Adult and Youth)

Kalua Pork
Panko Ginger Mahimahi
Soy Sauce Chicken
Teriyaki Steak
Rice
Sweet Potato with Toasted Coconut
Roasted Summer Squash

DESSERT 
Haupia Guava Cake

BEVERAGE
Coffee or Tea

Hale Koa Luau - Paul & self
Hale Koa Luau - front row table
Tahiti costumes& dance











FRIDAY February 18, 2022

PAUL’S BIRTHDAY

WEATHER another day in paradise  Sunrise: Honolulu, Oahu 0659             Sunset: 1831

TRAVEL Paul and Sarah went on the Circle Island Tour - 0750 pick up at the hotel,  Grand Waikikian - Waikiki Brewing Company - Fort DeRussy - Hale Koa Exchange - Barefoot Bar  


Waikiki Brewing Co
between Grand Waikikian &
the Hale Koa Hotel
 

Grand Waikikian HGVC - the Hilton Hawaiian Village complex has innumerable shops - found a very small Harley-Davidson Oahu store (boutique size) that had few items in Large or Medium.  I later found the same items at the Hale Koa Exchange in sizes that weren't 2X plus.  Also found a US Post Office in the Xerox Business Center.





Fort DeRussy History

MAJESTIC CIRCLE ISLAND TOUR #11 – I’ve been on this tour in the past.  I suggested to Paul and Sarah that this is the best way to see this island.  Reservation was made on Monday when we arrived.  Yesterday I reconsidered, and thought that I would go along but it was full - so I hung around the hotel - beach - pool.

This tour is different from all others, specifically redesigned to spend the most time “off the bus,” at each stop so that together we can discover all of the things that make our island magical.  This tour using uses an air conditioned mini-bus to ensure that group sizes are kept small enough to enjoy each stop with your group and guide.

Itinerary: (Official stops)

Battle of Nu'uanau

Nu'ulanu Lookout






1.     Nu’uanu Pali Lookout – The first stop of the day is at one of the most scenic and
historic places in all of Oahu.  How
King Kamehameha united all of the Hawaiian Islands under one monarchy at the very spot where a famous battle took place.  This was on my tour.

Byodo-in Temple







2.     Byodo-In TempleAs we drive along the Ko’olau mountain range we stop to discover a hidden gem tucked away from the main road. Byodo-In Temple was featured by National Geographic in “20 of the world’s most beautiful Buddhist temples,” noting its architectural details and awe inspiring surroundings. – Not sure this was on my tour – but the blow hole and ‘From Here to Eternity’ beach were. – might be considered ‘bonus stops’


3.     Tropical Farms Famously known as “The Little Country Store On Your Way to the North Shore” Steve and Chrissy Paty started this as a roadside operation in 1987 and now, three decades later it’s a great place to try different local snacks and learn how to crack open some macadamia nuts as the chickens stand by watching hungrily hoping you drop a nut or two.


Just had a surfing championship
competition last week - while we were on the Big Island

North Shore these waves are very small compared to what they could be this time of year



4.     North Shore Lunch StopYour driver will update you on the daily menu and determine a great place for everyone to enjoy a delicious lunch before driving alongside the world famous North Shore O’ahu coastline on our way to the next adventure. We ate at a Country Club.


Waimea Falls



Waimea Falls



5.     Waimea Valley
Eucalyptus tree
a rainbow
the closest we came to
seeing rainbow

Oahu
A short hike to a 45′ waterfall where you can swim. Learn about the ancient history of
Waimea Valley and why it’s considered to be a very significant and religious site.  This is an added stop.  Looks like they avoided North Shore and the waves – maybe it will be considered a ‘bonus stop’.







Dole Plantation

Waimea Falls


6.    
Dole PlantationWe end our day with a drive through Haleiwa Surf Town and beautiful pineapple fields before stopping at the Dole Plantation. Don’t forget to try the world famous DoleWhip frozen dessert, a perfect treat under the Hawaiian afternoon sun!  I didn’t stop at Dole when I took the tour.



7.  * BONUS STOP(S) – “E Noa” means freedom. In addition to the stops listed above, our tour guides are known to prepare something unique and special for every adventure.

 

SATURDAY-SUNDAY February 19-20, 2022

WEATHER my last day in paradise  78 and partly cloudy at 1400
Sunrise: Honolulu, Oahu 0659           Sunset: 1831
Sunrise: Denver, CO 0647                   Sunset: Milwaukee, WI 1726

TRAVEL:  Grand Waikikian - Fly United Arilines Honolulu (LV 2105) – Denver (AR 0630 LV 1000) – Milwaukee (AR 1305)

Grand Waikikian HGVC I stayed an extra day so we could have a place to hang-out.  The plane does not leave Honolulu until 2105  -  check out was 1000 if I had not decided on the extra day – place to hand out and hower.  Spent the afternoon on the beach..

 

"Toes in the water, ass in the sand
not a care in the world, cold beer in my hand
Life is good today, Life is good"

First time - rented a beach 
umbrella and chair

 

 

 





ALOHA






















































SATURDAY March 5, 2022

WEATHER:    Sunrise: Milwaukee 0659                     Sunset: Fort Myers, FL1830

TRAVEL:  Delta Airlines   MKE-ATL-RSW    Shadow Wood Preserve a gated community between Estero Bay Nature Preserve and Mullock Creek.  Includes 293 home sites including single family residences, coach homes and condos which surround the Shadow Wood Country Club’s Preserve golf course.

Picked up by a relative at the Southwest Florida’s International Airport at Fort Myers, FL.

Mass at Church of the Resurrection of Our Lord at 3:30 pm.  I’ve been here several times in the past – still serviced by Irish priests.  A large church for snowbirds and local residents – probably 300 in attendance.

Rusty’s Oyster Bar and Grill

Rusty's Oyster Bar & Grill
– got a seat at the bar – live music started at 6 – actually a pretty good band stayed for two sets.

Nino’s Pizzeria & Restaurant – pizza & beer

 


SUNDAY March 6, 2022

WEATHER:  64 at 0600 high of 86 – mostly sunny  Sunrise: 0646               Sunset: 1831

TRAVEL:  Fort Myers area.

Shadow Wood Preserve
Shadow Wood Preserve Country Club  nine sets of tees; ranging from 6,686 yds to 4,341yds – early tee time – played a three some –
 done in 3 hours and 40 minutes.  I shot a 54 on the front nine (21 putts and 1 in the sand) and 50 on the back nine (18 putts 3 lost balls and 3 in the sand) for a total of 104.  Par is 72.

We played from the V tees:  Total Yardage of 5,537  Course Rating/Slope 67.7/135



USGA Course Rating is an evaluation of the difficulty of a golf course for scratch golfers.  (More specifically, the number is an estimate of the average scores of the best 50-percent of rounds played by scratch golfers at the course being rated.)

Course rating is very easy to understand because it is expressed in strokes. A par-72 course that is easy might have a course rating of 68.9; one that is difficult might have a course rating of 74.5. That means that a scratch golfer should be expected to average 68.9 strokes in his better rounds at the easier course; and 74.5 at the more difficult one.

Slope rating (a term trademarked by the United States Golf Association) is a measurement of the difficulty of a golf course for bogey golfers relative to the course rating.

Course rating tells scratch golfers how difficult the golf course will be; slope rating tells bogey golfers how difficult it will be.

Lansdowne Street
To put it another way: USGA Course Rating tells the best golfers how hard a golf course actually plays; USGA Slope Rating indicates how much harder the course plays for "regular" (meaning not among the best) golfers.

The minimum slope rating is 55 and the maximum is 155 (slope does not relate specifically to strokes played as course rating). The higher the slope, the more difficult the course is. When the slope rating system was first put into effect, the USGA set the slope for an "average" golf course at 113; however, not many 18-hole golf courses have slope ratings that low. Some do, but the real-world average is higher than 113. (However, a slope of 113 is still used in certain calculations within the handicap system.)

Nauti Parrot Oasis

Lansdowne Street – a sports bar with a Boston Red Sox baseball theme


Nauti Parrot Oasis - been here before – a long time ago for dinner - the place was jammed at 3 pm – there was a bluegrass festival going on

Rusty’s Oyster Bar & Grill - been here before - even when it was a places called "Larry's - always crowded

Texas Roadhouse - dinner





MONDAY March 7, 2022

WEATHER: 68 at 0600 clear – started clouding up about noon - high of 84 - a short shower about 3:30 pm – occasional showers until 5 pm  Sunrise: 0645               Sunset: 1832

TRAVEL:  Fort Myer’s area.

The British Open - bar
Shadow Wood Preserve Country Club – 7 am tee time – done in 3 hours and 10 minutes.  I shot a 53 on the front nine (with 3 lost balls)  and 49 (2 lost balls) on the back nine for a total of 102.   Better than yesterday – if I were playing tomorrow, I’d hope to do better.  I figured out to use my arms and not my wrists when putting – now if I could only straighten out the drives.  The best round of golf I ever had was here at Shadow Wood Preserve.  I shot 90 for 18 holes.

Ford’s Garage – lunch – burgers and beer – I had mac& cheese

Rusty's

British Open

 

TUESDAY March 8, 2022

WEATHER  foggy and 67 at 0600 – high of 86 mostly sunny Sunrise: Fort Myers  0644                    Sunset: Naples  1833

TRAVEL:  Fort Myers – Everglades NP – Big Cypress NPres - Naples

Haney’s Café for breakfast.

Rented a Buick Encore from Budget Southwest Florida International Airport for 3 days.  Drove to Naples.  Not a bad car – comfortable small SUV – but I’m sure it has a 4 cylinder engine – no guts when you step on the gas

162 EVERGLADES NATIONAL PARK – Miami, FL   Not my first visit – spent several days at the park’s three Visitor Centers in 2015.

  Everglades National Park is open year-round.  Highest visitation is from December through April, and the lowest visitation is May through November. Walking and canoe trails, boat tours and tram tours are excellent for viewing wildlife, including alligators and a multitude of tropical and temperate birds.  This is my 3rd visit to the Gulf Coast Visitor Center – little more than a contact station and a concessionaire that offers boat rides and canoe/kayak rentals

Everglades National Park is my favorite National Park east of the Mississippi River.  Obviously, not my first visit and winter is the best time to visit – otherwise – fight the mosquitoes – heat and humidity.  The majority of the park is accessed from the Atlantic Coast south of Miami.  Spend time in the park – it’s worth the visit, as are stops at Big Cypress and Shark Valley.

 

Everglades National Park - a big place



Manatee - NPS photo
163 BIG CYPRESS NATIONAL PRESERVE, Florida  Big Cypress

National Preserve
-  not my fist visit – spent several days in this area in January of 2015.  In the 1960s, plans for the world’s largest Jetport, to be constructed in the heart of the Greater Everglades of south Florida, were unveiled. This project, and the anticipated development that would follow, spurred the incentive to protect the wilds of the vast Big Cypress Swamp.  To prevent development of the Jetport, local conservationists, sportsmen, environmentalists, Seminoles, Miccosukees, and many others set political and personal differences aside. The efforts of countless individuals and government officials prevailed when, On October 11, 1974, Big Cypress National Preserve was established as the nation’s first national preserve.

The concept of a national preserve was born from an exercise in compromise.  Everyone saw the importance of protecting the swamp, but many did not want this region merely added to nearby Everglades National Park that was created in the 1940s. Many felt that national parks were managed in a restrictive manner and access to the swamp would be lost. The resulting compromise created a new land management concept – a national preserve. An area that would be protected, but would also allow for specific Big Cypress National Preserve.

Big Cypress Swamp 

Established October 11, 1974, Big Cypress is America’s first national preserve.   Big Cypress is 729,000 acres. That’s roughly the size of Rhode Island. • Approximately one million visitors visit the Preserve each year.   To date, there are roughly 135 Florida panthers remaining in the state.  Of which, 30-35 call Big Cypress home.  The Preserve has one of the largest fire management programs in the National Park System, burning roughly 60,000 acres each year. activities that were described by Congress within the legislation that created the Preserve.

Big Cypress National Preserve 

The Midnight Tavern
Hampton Inn – 2630 Northbrooke Plaza Dr, Naples – tucked away on a dead end but close to I-95 and Immokalee Dr  -  WIFI works  -   overall a nice place to stay - pool, good breakfast, business center, coffee available all day, lined by trees  -  convenient but reminded me of a KOA – too close to I-75 and the roar of trucks all day and night.A very good time – lots of conversation and an invite to stay overnight – but I already had a room – also an invite to the pool tomorrow – for drinks, conversation, and canasta – very nice but I think I may pass.

Dinner at the Midnight Tavern 2800, Davis Blvd, Naples with friends renting a 2 BR
condo/apartment in a place called Kings Way for 3 months in the winter. 

 

 

WEDNESDAY March 9, 2022

WEATHER:  74 at 600, sunny and clear – high of 86   Sunrise: 0641               Sunset: 1833

TRAVEL:  Naples area  – Chase – USPS - Barefoot Beach Delnor-Wiggins Pass State ParkHogfish Harry’sOld Naples PubBay House Restaurant

Barefoot Beach Preserve entrance
Barefoot Beach – 503 Barefoot Beach Rd, Bonita Springs, FL - Barefoot Beach access is
located 20 feet off Bonita Beach Road on Lely Barefoot Boulevard the access provides an open, peaceful location for sunbathers.  
Barefoot Beach Preserve Park is located just South of this access point.  Just North is Bonita Beach Park, which has public rest rooms, showers and concessions. In addition to the thriving wildlife and sea life that can be observed at this location.  Get here early – There are only 96 parking spaces that you can use for $10 per day.  I couldn’t find a place to park – didn’t see the beach or the Gulf - so I didn’t stay.

Delnor-Wiggins Pass
State Park entrance 





Delnor Wiggins Pass State Park – I was welcomed to “

Delnor-Wiggins Pass State Park
most of the beach was closed 
looks like installation of a pipeline
paradise”.  It cost me $4 to enter as a single, otherwise it may be $6 per carload.  I wasn’t impressed – after about a ½ hour in the park – I left – and the ‘rangers’ had new access blocked.  The lots were full.





Hogfish Harry's

Hogfish Harry’s Restaurant & Bar
– 600 Neapolitan Way, Naples – this restaurant is difficult to find – tucked away in a island oasis - The new full service tropical-inspired seafood restaurant opened in the fall of 2020 and is helmed by Naples’ veteran Chef Everett Fromm.

With a passion for seafood, utilizing sustainable, fresh, and one-of-a-kind ingredients and making everything from scratch, Chef Fromm works with fishermen, farmers and artisans locally, nationally and Europe to source his menu items and provide guests with unique flavor profiles and food combinations. The fish is flown in whole overnight from Hawaii and the Yucatan Peninsula, and broken down in-house to limit exposure to exterior elements. White peaches, French melons and other specialty items come from France; while certain organic vegetables are delivered from a farm in Ohio. Microgreens, tomatoes and mushrooms are sourced from local farmers. In addition, many ingredients such as stocks, sauces, pastas and desserts, are prepared in-house.

Old Naples Pub
this is where you get pickled
Old Naples Pub – 255 13th St, Naples - A favorite hang-out among locals just two blocks from Naples historic fishing pier. After the beach drop by and enjoy a frosty mug and some traditional Naples pub fare. A casual family friendly atmosphere in fancy Naples shopping district.  I got a seat at the bar around 4:40 – then it got crowded – but this is a low key place in a very high rent district.

Bayhouse Restaurant - from the patio bar









The Bay House Restaurant – 799 Walkerbilt Rd – Naples – this was an outstanding restaurant and an excellent choice for dinner – RESERVATIONS ARE PROBABLY A MUST – service was outstanding – free valet parking – those boys run – the food was Outstanding.  I almost thought I might have been underdressed (golf shorts and golf shirt) – there were a lot of women in long dresses and men in pants.  This is an elegant restaurant in the outback near the water. 

Located directly on the Cocohatchee River in North Naples, the restaurant offers spectacular waterfront dining and unparalleled views of the Cocohatchee wildlife preserve. Come experience gracious hospitality in an intimate setting exuding Old Florida charm. Outdoor seating is available on the waterfront deck and around the fire pit on the front patio. The cuisine ranges from all types of seafood to southern-influenced dishes and regional fare. 


THURSDAY March 10, 2022

Naples Pier - end of 12th Avenue 

WEATHER:
74 at 0600, mostly cloudy - high of 89   
Sunrise: 0640             Sunset: 1834
St. Agnes Church - Naples

TRAVEL:  Naples area – Marco Island.

Mass (8:30 am) at St. Agnes Catholic Church, 7775 Vanderbilt Rd, Naples, FL   a huge campus – about 125 in church







Naples Pier

Naples Pier - Municipal Beach


View from Cj's Bar - Marco Island










Marco Island – I decided to at least visit (drive by) the several options that are available from HGVC on Marco Island.  I’ve tried several times to make a reservation – Impossible – so I called HGVC member services to confirm my suspicions – these properties were originally sold as traditional timeshare – the owners generally use their week annually and rarely are they open for use by club members.  All of these are nice properties on the water.  All in a row.

Eagles Nest-HGVC – 410 S Collier Blvd

Club Regency-HGVC – 500 S Collier Blvd

Charter Club-HGVC  – 500 S Collier Blvd

Surf Club-HGVC – 540 S Collier Blvd

                                     




CJ’s on the Bay–  a little hard to find – located on the water side of a shopping/living complex/mall.   Excellent view - on the water.  I had a mini-hamburger plate of 2 mini-cheeseburgers that were done to perfection and cole slaw.


Snook Inn

Snooks Inn – a traditional place to visit on Marco Island – I’ve eaten here before always crowded.  Met a guy at the bar who lives here year ‘round – this is the ‘season’ busy – when summer comes, the population declines by about 60% - no problem getting a tee time

Sand Bar – a sports bar in a off the beaten path location – no big deal – walked in – sat at the bar – waited - left






Internet Photo - Home for sale in Twin Eagles 
$1,350,000 3BR, 4 bath, 3,062 sq ft
Visited with Wisconsin neighbors who live in a gated community called Twin Eagles.  One of the premier clubs in southwest Florida.  The Twin Eagles Club is a unique, private, member-owned country club community featuring 36 holes set amongst 1,115 acres of captivating, natural landscape, shared with abundant wildlife.  The club is home to almost 800 residences ranging from estates to coach homes. Literally right on the edge of CREW Bird Rookery Swamp.

Dinner at Outback Steakhouse.  It was suggested to eat at Jimmy P’s Steakhouse but I wasn’t hungry full a full steak dinner – so I did downsize to a 6 oz sirloin with shrimp, baked potato and salad.  Intentions of stopping at Bone Hook Brewery on Immokalee Rd but too tired so I went to bed.

 

FRIDAY March 11, 2022

WEATHER: 73 and cloudy at 0600, sunny by 10, high of 88  Sunrise: 0639               Sunset: 1834 

TRAVEL:  Naples – Seed to TableBonita Beach ParkBig Hickory IslandLovers Key State Park Estero Island Irish Bar - Rockstar HD - Fat Katz - returned rental to Budget at Southwest Florida International Airport – Shadow Wood - Sports Bar & Grill - Tacos & Tequila - Rusty's

Mass (8:30 am) at St. Agnes Catholic Church, 7775 Vanderbilt Rd, Naples, FL   a huge campus – about 150 in church

Seed to Table




Seed to Table 4835 Immokalee Rd - suggested as a ‘must see’ by friends  - A 75,000 sq ft
farmers market – a butcher shop, fish market, 2 story wine section, full service bakery, several restaurants, ice cream shop, café & juice bar, smoothie bar, wine bar, organic meals, ready-made meals, and a playground for the kids.

Bonita Beach State Park – open to the public since 1922 – parking $2 per hour - again advise go early if you want to go the beaches, traffic was backed up and slow - did not enter just a drive by 

Big Hickory Island – approximately 186 acres directly south of Lovers Key State Park.  The island is made up of beaches, mangrove swamps and emerging mangrove islands surrounded by an oyster bed.


Lovers Key State Park
Entrance sign
Lover’s Key State Park – originally planned a a condominium development the land was
donated to the state so that its beaches and mangrove forests can be preserved for all to enjoy.  Traffic was backed up to get in so I did not enter.  The whole 'key' is a beach.

Estero Island part of Fort Myers Beach, Estoro Island is located in Lee County Florida on the Gulf coast of Southwest Florida.  t is bordered by San Carlos Island to the north and Big Carlos Pass to the south.  The Matanzas Pass Bridge is on the northern end of the island and connects Estero Island over Matanzas Pass to San Carlos Island.  The Big Carlos Bridge (part of the Bonita Beach Causeway) connects the southern end of the island to Black Island (the northern limit of the city of Bonita Springs)



Map - Fort Myers Beach - Estero Island

Beachfront - Seawatch HGVC - Fort Myers Beach



Rockstar Harley-Davidson - Fort Myers 
Rockstar Harley-Davison -  The Veracka family’s group of Harley-Davidson stores, known as The Motorcycle Company, consists of Rawhide Harley-Davidson, Olathe, Kansas, High Octane Harley-Davidson, Billerica, Massachusetts, Avalanche Harley-Davidson, Golden, Colorado, Riverside Harley-Davidson, Riverside, California, Huntington Beach Harley-Davidson, Westminster, California, Palm Beach Harley-Davidson, West Palm Beach, Florida, Rockstar Harley-Davidson, Fort Myers, Florida and Motown Harley-Davidson, Taylor, Michigan.  This is a huge dealership.  First time I actually saw several sales people at tables - working on deals to sell Harley's to their customers.


Don't bother visiting this "Irish" bar 
in Fort Myers Beach - nothing Irish about it
Fat Katz just down from
Rockstar Harley-Davidson







Shamrock Irish Bar-  Paddywagon - Fat Katz – Seagrass Sports Bar & Grill - Tacos & Tequila -
Rusty’s



SATURDAY March 12, 2022

WEATHER:  73 mostly cloudy, windy – clouded up by 10 am – rain about  noon – got cooler – windy - forecast calls for a dropdown to 45 this evening        Sunrise: 0639               Sunset: 1834

TRAVEL:  Fort Myer’s area –

Shadow Wood Preserve Country Club – shot 101; 7 lost balls, finally started playing better the last 3 holes – shot par 3, par 4 and par 5.

The Diner – breakfast

Mass at Church of the Resurrection of Our Lord at 3:30.  – probably 300 in attendance.

Rusty’s (crowded – live music – did not stay) – Zino’s (excellent dinner) – Nauti Parrot ( live music -  crowded – bar full of people smoking and wearing sunglasses – it was dark outside) – Rusty’s (live music – found 2 seats at the bar)

 

SUNDAY March 13, 2022

WEATHER: 46 at 0600 clear – 36 in Atlanta at 1030 – 50 in Burlington by 2 pm

DAYLIGHT SAVING TIME Sunrise: Fort Myers  0738                   Sunset: Milwaukee 1856

TRAVEL:  Delta Airlines - RSW – ATL – MKE - - - - DELTA ---- Apologies - Apologies – Apologies the flight out of Fort Myers was 1hr and 25 minutes late- the flight from Atlanta to Milwaukee was late out of the gate and the screens on the plane did not work properly  - Still got to MKE about the time I should should have

Glad to be back home – although the weather in southwest Florida is very agreeable.  Told Larry I would serve as his butler, cook, maid – in return for golf – perhaps lodging – he didn’t bite.

 

SUNDAY – APRIL 17, 2022

WEATHER:   42  at 4 am, 60 in Fairfield Glade at 2 pm

TRAVEL:  Burlington, WI to Fairfield Glade, TN about 558 miles in 8 ½ hours, little traffic, usual ‘forever’ construction in Indiana along I-65.

Tennessee Mountain Golf provides golf packages to Fairfield Glade and Crossville.  There are six golf courses here.  The courses  feature designers such as Jack Nicklaus, Joe Lee, Ron Garl, Bobby Greenwood, and Gary Roger Baird. These designers have taken advantage of the natural terrain and scenic beauty of the Cumberland Plateau.  Their visions have produced multiple championship layouts throughout Fairfield Glade and Crossville that are as challenging as they are enjoyable.

We stay in 2 bedroom condos located in Fairfield Glade and are fully furnished with Cable TV (most with HD Flat Screens), linens for bed and bath and washer and dryer. The kitchens are fully equipped with microwaves, coffee maker and cooking equipment.  WIFI works.

So, something different this year – my brother didn’t want to go down on Monday and golf at Kentucky Dam State Park with the other 7 guys who are coming down to Tennessee.  So, we met up with three other guys who come down here early and golf a day or two before the majority of the group shows up

Unit 65 – a 2 bedroom affair, with 2 baths kitchen and living/dining room.  WIFI works – probably built in the 70’s – linoleum in the bath was exactly the same as what was in one of the places I lived when first married.  Moved to Unit 79 same layout but nicer and a view of the Dorchester GC driving range.

 

MONDAY – APRIL 18, 2021

WEATHER: rained heavy last night, 49 at 6 am and cloudy, forecast not much over 50 for the remainder of the day.

TRAVEL:  Heatherhurst Crag – Druid Hills

The Crag #1 Tee on Monday
April 18 - Cool and Cart Path Only
HEATHERHRUST CRAG - Rain did not delay golf - 8:05 tee time. 49/50 no lost balls, penalty
strokes, or sand shots.
 

DRUID HILLS – a replay for nine cost $22.  We played the back nine – a very scenic course with a signature waterfall hole.  Shot 52 with 2 penalty stokes, and two in the sand.

Lunch of leftover ham from Sunday dinner and salad.  Dinner was Mexican at a restaurant called Cancun.


There are 5 courses that we play here.  No golf course is easy.  But there is a rating system used by USGA.  I’ve explained this before:

USGA Course Rating is an evaluation of the difficulty of a golf course for scratch golfers.  (More specifically, the number is an estimate of the average scores of the best 50-percent of rounds played by scratch golfers at the course being rated.)

Course rating is very easy to understand because it is expressed in strokes. A par-72 course that is easy might have a course rating of 68.9; one that is difficult might have a course rating of 74.5. That means that a scratch golfer should be expected to average 68.9 strokes in his better rounds at the easier course; and 74.5 at the more difficult one.

Slope rating (a term trademarked by the United States Golf Association) is a measurement of the difficulty of a golf course for bogey golfers relative to the course rating.

Course rating tells scratch golfers how difficult the golf course will be; slope rating tells bogey golfers how difficult it will be.

To put it another way: USGA Course Rating tells the best golfers how hard a golf course actually plays; USGA Slope Rating indicates how much harder the course plays for "regular" (meaning not among the best) golfers.

The minimum slope rating is 55 and the maximum is 155 (slope does not relate specifically to strokes played as course rating). The higher the slope, the more difficult the course is. When the slope rating system was first put into effect, the USGA set the slope for an "average" golf course at 113; however, not many 18-hole golf courses have slope ratings that low. Some do, but the real-world average is higher than 113. (However, a slope of 113 is still used in certain calculations within the handicap system.)

The rating and slope differs depending upon you’re a man or a woman & what tees you play from. 

                                        White Tees            Gold Tees

Course                             Rating/Slope          Rating Slope

Heatherhurst Crag           65.7/114                 61.8/106

Dorchester                       68.0/125                 63.8/117

Heatherhurst Brae           68.1/121                 64.3/103

Stonehenge                     70.1/136                 66.0/111

Druid Hills                        69.0/121                 65.8/105

 

 

TUESDAY – APRIL 19, 2022

WEATHER:  31 at 6 am and clear and sunny. A high of 54.  Cool but pleasant because of the sun.

TRAVEL:  DRUID HILLS

 

DRUID HILLS Golf Course   -   CART PATH ONLY

Druid Hills Golf Club is an is an immaculately maintained 18-hole course that delivers spectacular vistas. Located on the highest point in Fairfield Glade, as the name suggest, Druid Hills provides several scenic views of the surrounding mountains. With rolling, tree-lined fairways, plenty of water, several doglegs, and undulation bent grass greens, Druid Hills is a true test of golf.  Last year I shot 105 with 4 lost balls and 39 putts.  The greens were not that undulating and the scenic views truly are scenic to include views to the mountains and a ‘signature’ waterfall hole – Par 5 with an elevated green, waterfall and pond in front of the hole.

 

Front Nine – White 3042 yds       Gold – 2547 yds

Back Nine – White 2785 yds       Gold -  2484 yds

Total                        5827yds                    5031 yds 

Rating/Slope           69.0/121                 65.8/105

 

Back Nine – shot from the Gold tees     50 with 1 lost ball and 20 putts

Front Nine - shot from the Gold tees     53 with 2 lost balls, and 18 putts

Back Nine – shot from the Gold tees     55 with 2 lost balls and 20 putts

There was no scramble.  Cart path only - tires everyone out.

Dinner of a hamburger and fries at Red’s Ale House.

 

WEDNESDAY – APRIL 20, 2022

WEATHER:  35 at 6 am and partly sunny, forecast high of 65 by 3 pm and cloudy.

TRAVELDORCHESTER   -   CART PATH ONLY

Dorchester #13
I haven’t kept track of the money won during these golf trips.  However, I’ll give it a try this
year.
  We all throw in $100, teams change very day, everyone’s score is adjusted by an average which changes at the end of each day’s round.  

Prize money for 1st place team - Front and Back is $32.  Prize money for 2nd place team Front and Back is $20.  Individual most under average wins $5.  There are prizes for the Green Balls on all of the Par 3 holes of $5.  There are 4 longest putt  prizes of $5 and one longest drive holes.  The First place team wins $32 in the nine hole scramble and the second place team wins $28. 

Dorchester #13   Par 3
  127 yds White
113 yds Gold
Men's Handicap 14







Yesterday, my team won 1st place ($8 each) on the front nine; 2nd place on the back nine ($5 each).  There was no scramble.  Somehow, we won $2 each for low total but I think that was in error.  We’ll see what the awards are tomorrow.  So, I won $18 of the $100 I contributed to the pot.



DORCHESTER Golf Course   -   CART PATH ONLY

Dorchester Golf Club is an 18-hole course, secluded in Fairfield Glade and featuring bent grass tees and greens. The tree lined fairways are narrow, requiring precision shot-making off the tees. Many water hazards and strategically placed bunkers provide a challenge for every level of golfer.  Last year I shot 108 on this course with 6 lost balls and 36 putts. This year I shot 110.


Front Nine – White 3044 yds       Gold – 2393 yds

Back Nine – White 2773 yds       Gold -  2442 yds

Total                         5817yds                   4835 yds

Rating/Slope 68.0/125                 63.8/113

 

Front Nine - shot from the Gold tees     52 with 3 whiffs, 1 in the sand  and 20 putts

Back Nine – shot from the Gold tees     58 with 2 lost balls, 1 penalty stroke, 3 whiffs and 1 in the sand with 21 putts.  This back nine has some interesting holes, they’re killers.

We ate spaghetti as a group for dinner.

 

THURSDAY – APRIL 21, 2021

WEATHER:  57 at 6 am forecast high of 71, partly sunny, it was drizzling when we started and got progressively warmer until around 3 pm, then it got cloudy and cooled down again

TRAVEL: HEATHERHURST BRAE

Too complicated to keep track of winnings – but it was around $28 today - maybe. 

The Brae - Cart Path Only
on Thursday - the course was 
soggy on many holes - squish - squish

HEATHERHURST – BRAE Golf Course   -    CART PATH ONLY

Heatherhurst Golf Club is both challenging and scenic. The 18-hole Brae Course is made up of the original Creek and Mountain 9-hole tracts. The front nine provides the most challenge. Including the number 4 hole, which features a double dogleg fairway. Some consider this hole as the toughest par 5 in Tennessee. The undulating fairways and encroaching bunkers guarantee a challenging and scenic round. Rated 4 stars by Golf Digest’s Places to Play.  Last year I shot 107 with 4 lost balls, and 36 putts.  This course was wet and soggy.

Front Nine – White 2986 yds       Gold – 2385 yds

Back Nine – White 2994 yds       Gold -  2633 yds

Total                        5980 yds                   5018 yds

Rating/Slope           68.1/121                 64.3/103


The Brae #7   Par 3
Men's Handicap  15 





The Brae #7

Front Nine - shot from the Gold tees     58 with 2 lost balls, 5 whiffs, and 17 putts

Back Nine – shot from the Gold tees     50 with 1 lost ball, and 16 putts

We ate Cosco lasagna with salad and Italian bread for dinner.



 



FRIDAY – APRIL 22, 2022

WEATHER:  58 at 6 am mostly sunny and clear, forecast high of 77 degrees

TRAVEL:  HEATHERHURST CRAG

I won $5 today from yesterday.

The Crag - 90 Degree Rule here
means enter the fairway and stay in 
the fairway - Do Not drive in the rough
HEATHERHURST – CRAG Golf Course  -  90 Degree Rule   #17 is extremely scenic.

The completion of nine additional holes in mid-2000 created a fun and challenging 18-hole course, called the Crag Course at Heatherhurst Golf Club. As with its sister, The Brae Course, it features Bent grass tees and greens. Its well-maintained, wide fairways are great for the short hitters but some strategically placed bunkers create a demanding day on the links. Heatherhurst’s original three nine-hole courses were all given 4 stars from Golf Digest’s Places to Play.  Last year I shot 98 with 1 lost ball and 44 putts.

Front Nine – White 2745 yds      Gold – 2403 yds

Back Nine – White 2819 yds       Gold -  2246 yds

Total                         5564yds                   4649 yds

Rating/Slope           65.7//114                61.8/106



The Crag  #12
the home in the background 
is landscaped beautifully

The Crag  #12    Par 3
Men's Handicap  14

Front Nine - shot from the Gold tees     52 with 2 lost balls and 1 in the sand,19 putts

Back Nine – shot from the Gold tees     48 with 1 lost ball, 2 whiffs and 19 putts

Dinner at Spike’s – an adequate fish fry – breaded frozen filets – OD bought for all

 

 

SATURDAY – APRIL 23, 2022

WEATHER:  high of 81 and sunny

TRAVEL:  STONEHENGE

 Some how I won $21 yesterday. 


STONEHENGE Golf Course
–  
Architect Joe Lee has taken a pristine tract of land in the rolling and wooded Cumberland Plateau and made it his personal canvas for the masterpiece that is Stonehenge.  The course gets its name from walls of native stone found throughout the 6,549 yard, par 72 layout. Natural rock outcroppings come into play on several holes, with a 15 foot layered stone retaining wall running along the left proud to feature bent grass tees, greens and fairways for prime playing conditions. During the winter of 2016-17 Stonehenge Golf Course underwent bunker and rear of the signature downhill par 3, 14th hole. Stonehenge Golf Club is renovations. This was accomplished in order to improve drainage and playability for a better golfing experience.  Last year it rained hard in the morning – and rain and cold in the afternoon – most of us only played nine holes.

 

Stonehenge #14 Par 3
White 148 yds   Gold 138 yds
Men's Handicap  10

Front Nine – White 3154 yds    Gold – 2607 yds

Back Nine – White 3048 yds    Gold – 2485 yds

Total           - White 6202 yds     Gold5092 yds

Rating/Slope           70.1/136                 66.0/111

 

Front Nine - shot from the Gold tees     50 with 20 putts, 1 lost ball, and 2 in the sand

Back Nine – shot from the Gold tees     56 with 19 putts, 1 lost ball, 4 whiffs, and 2 in the sand

We ate spaghetti again tonight . . . . and somehow again I won $22.





Stonehenge #15  Par 5
White 490 yds   Gold 375  Men's Handicap  2 
 #14 is below this tee to the right

You've heard of the Green Jacket
Well, the 'pink jacket' is awarded 
to the golfer most under average for each day
Do I resemble that golfer?  Go figure.



SUNDAY – APRIL 24, 2022

WEATHER:  perfect in TN, rain in northern IL and south of Chicago, about 68 and mostly sunny when I got home.   Made good time driving.

TRAVEL:  After breakfast in the condo -we left at 6:30 am CDT and I got home at a little after 4 pm CDT.

 

WEDNESDAY – JUNE 15, 2022

WEATHER:  81 and sunny in 0800; 91 in Charleston, WV

TRAVEL:  MKE – ORD – WRV.  A delay in the bus pickup and arrival at the Hampton Inn in Elkin’s WV at 10:30 pm.  A 2 ½ hour bus ride from Charleston, WV.

 

CHICAGO CIVIL WAR ROUND TABLE

2022 – 71st Tour:  “THE CAMPAIGN in West Virginia 1861”

Ed Bearss    1923-2020
NPS Chief Historian Emeritus

 
This tour was originally to be the 70th Tour, planned for May of 2020, cancelled and rescheduled for August 2020 and then cancelled again due to COVID.  The Chicago Civil War Roundtable’s 70th Tour was held at Chancellorsville/ Fredericksburg in August of 2021.

The group usually has 40-80 people attending on two busses.  The chief guide had been Ed Bearss, Historian Emeritus National Park Service.   Ed died September 15, 2020 at the age of 97.  Attendance goes up and down depending on the sites the tour visits.  Last year the group visited Chancellorsville & Fredericksburg in August.  This will be my 12th tour.  I missed the ‘Atlanta Campaign’ in 2018 because of a conflict with golf in Tennessee.

This year the guides are:  Hunter Lesser – of Elkins, WV, historian and author, on the Board of Directors for the Rich Mountain Battlefield Foundation and Rick Wolfe.  There are only 28 people on this tour.

Hampton Inn, 480 Plantation Dr, Elkins, WV   -   Base Hotel –

 

 

THURSDAY – JUNE 16, 2022

WEATHER:   foggy morning and 69 in Elkins, WV – forecast calls for a high of 89 and partly cloudy – hot and humid after lunch    Sunrise: 0553 EDT       Sunset: 2048 EDT Elkins, WV

TRAVEL:  Hampton Inn, Elkins, WV – Philippi Covered Bridge – Talbot’s Hill – Laurel Hill (Camp Garnett – drive by) – Rich Mountain – burgers & dogs lunch at Field of Fire (private Rich Mountain Wayside) – Rich Mountain (Hart Farm) – Corrick’s Ford – Hampton Inn – BBQ dinner at Smoke on the Water.

Hampton Inn, 480 Plantation Dr, Elkins, WV   -   Base Hotel –

The First Campaign - 1861

Philippi Battlefield
,
Philippi, WV   Barbour County     Jun 3, 1861

What would become the first organized land battle of the Civil War began from a Union attempt to protect railroads in Western Virginia.  MG George B. McClellan, months before he would become General-in-Chief, was commander of the Department of Ohio.  He ordered troops to Western Virginia to protect the important Baltimore & Ohio Railroad and perhaps to open a path to Richmond.

McClellan ordered 3,000 men under BG Thomas A. Morris to the town of Philippi in Barbour County.  They were sent to protect vital river crossings and an important rail junction. In the town of Philippi, Union commanders learned, was a concentration of about 800 newly recruited Confederate soldiers under COL George Porterfield.  Most of them were green, and they had not yet been organized into regiments.


Phillppi - The Federal Battle Plan  sketch bottom right is the death of Garnett

Morris devised a pincer movement on the town. About 1,600 Union troops from Indiana, Ohio, and Western Virginia, under COL Benjamin Kelley, would board trains east, feigning a move towards Harper’s Ferry.  They would then disembark at the town of Thornton and march south to the backside of Philippi.  At the same time, about 1,400 men under COL Ebenezer Dumont, assisted by COL Frederick W. Lander, one of McClellan’s aides, would march directly south to Philippi.  Together they would surround the town; a pistol shot would be the signal to attack.

Philippi

After an overnight battle fraught with rain, both contingents arrived at Philippi on the morning of June 3.  Southern sympathizer Matilda Humphries saw the Union troops approaching and sent her son to warn Porterfield, but he was caught by Union pickets. During the confrontation between Humphries and the Union soldiers who accosted her son, she fired a pistol.  The assembled men took it for the arranged symbol, and thus the attack began prematurely. The Confederates had failed to post pickets, so they were completely surprised when a Union artillery barrage awoke them from their slumber.  Some were able to fire at the advancing Yankees but were unable to put up a solid defense.  They soon broke and retreated to the south.  Kelley’s men arrived on the wrong road and were unable to block their retreat; a chase ensued.  Kelley was shot in the pursuit, while Lander performed a daring show of horsemanship, riding down a steep hill through underbrush.  The Confederates would retreat all the way to Huttonsville, almost 50 miles to the south. The frantic retreat would cause journalists to dub the battle the “Races at Philippi.”     

The "Races" the daring ride of
COL Lander

Result: Union Victory
Est. Casualties: 30
Union: 4
Confederate: 26

Although casualties were limited, this battle had significant impacts on the war, barely two months old.  First, the victory propelled McClellan to the national spotlight; he would become commander of the Army of the Potomac in July.  It also would bolster the morale of the Second Wheeling Convention, which would vote to nullify Virginia’s order of secession, leading Western Virginia on the path to statehood.

At Philippi, some of the first battlefield amputations of the war occurred.  Confederate James E. Hanger lost a leg in the fighting, but after he returned home, he created an artificial leg out of barrel staves with a hinge at the knee.  After the war, he patented the design and founded what is now the Hanger Orthopedic Group, which is currently the United States’ leading prosthetics company.

Laurel Hill      Barbour County    July 7, 1861

BG Robert S. Garnett (CSA)


The Battle of Laurel Hill, also known as the Battle of Laurel Mountain or Belington, began on July 7, 1861. A month earlier, Southern troops had retreated south after their loss at the Battle of Philippi. Confederate commander BG Robert S. Garnett had seized a key mountain pass and set up his defenses at the foot of Laurel Mountain, located in eastern Barbour County.  Beginning on July 7, Union troops under BG Thomas Morris attacked Garnett’s men in a series of skirmishes. The two sides fought for the next five days. In the end, the Confederates were overrun. 

BG Thomas Morris (USA)



On July 12, Garnett learned of another Confederate defeat at nearby Rich Mountain in Randolph County and pulled his men back to the Cheat River.   Garnett was killed the following day at the Battle of Corrick’s Ford. He was the first Civil War general on either side to die in combat.

The Union Army’s victories at Laurel Hill, Rich Mountain, and Corrick’s Ford in July 1861 helped place Western Virginia in Northern hands for the rest of the war and allowed the West Virginia statehood movement to unfold.


Rich Mountain Camp Garnett - map at right was drawn by Jed Hotchkiss


Rich Mountain    Randolph County, WV    Jul 11, 1861

George Brinton McClellan (USA)

MG George B.
McClellan assumed command of Union forces in western Virginia in June 1861.  After their defeat by McClellan at Philippi, Confederate troops under the command of BG Robert S. Garnett had fortified two key mountain passes. The one furthest south, Camp Garnett, consisted of earth and log entrenchments overlooking the Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike at Rich Mountain, just west of Beverly.  



On June 27th, McClellan moved his brigades of Ohio and Indiana soldiers from Clarksburg south against LTC John Pegram’s Confederates, reaching the vicinity of Rich Mountain on July 9th.  Meanwhile, BG Thomas A. Morris’s Union brigade marched from Philippi to confront Garnett’s command at Laurel Hill.   

William S. Rosecrans (USA)
On July 11th, BG William S. Rosecrans led a reinforced brigade by a mountain path to seize
the turnpike in
Pegram’s rear.   A sharp two-hour fight ensued in which the Confederates were split in two.  Half escaped to Beverly, but Pegram and the others surrendered on July 13. 

LTC John Pegram (CSA)




Hearing of Pegram’s defeat, Garnett abandoned Laurel Hill.  The Federals pursued, and, during fighting at Corrick’s Ford on July 13, Garnett was killed.  On July 22, McClellan was ordered to Washington, and Rosecrans assumed command of Union forces in western Virginia.  The Union victory at Rich Mountain was instrumental in propelling McClellan to command of the Army of the Potomac.


Result: Union Victory
Est. Casualties: 346
Union: 46
Confederate: 300

Corrick's Ford

Corricks Ford
,
Parsons, WV    Tucker County    Jul 13, 1861

“They have not given me an adequate force. I can do nothing. They have sent me to my death."  Gen. Robert S. Garnett CSA

"I have made a very clean sweep of it."  Maj. Gen. George B. McClellan USA

 Guide Hunter Lessor
in white t-shirt left
at Corrick's Ford

Union MG George
McClellan won a victory at the Battle of Rich Mountain on July 11, 1861. That night, Confederate BG Robert S. Garnett and 3,500 Confederates abandoned their camp at Laurel Hill and marched south toward Beverly.  Fearing a trap, they turned northeast in a daring bid to escape.  Union troops pursued the Confederates over Pheasant Mountain in a driving summer rain along muddy roads and rain-swollen river crossings.  Garnett's army tossed tents and supplies along the way to lighten the load and block the path of their pursuers.  The running battle continued through the night and into the early morning hours of July 13th, when the exhausted armies reached Corrick's Ford, a river crossing on the Shavers Fork of the Cheat River.   Garnett and his troops broke off the fight and retreated down river to make a final stand. Sharpshooters of the 23rd Virginia Infantry were positioned behind driftwood along the riverbank in a desperate bid to stall the Yankees.  Garnett remained with his troops as bullets hissed across the stream.  As he turned to give an order, a ball struck him and he toppled from his horse.  Federal skirmishers splashed across the ford and found the general's body among the wildflowers.  Garnett became the first general officer to die in the Civil War.   
The death of BG Robert S. Garnett at Corricks Ford

His troops fled in disarray, escapingover the mountains and along the river.   The events in western Virginia during these first campaigns of the Civil War won fame for
McClellan and secured Union control of the area, and in June 1863, the new state of West Virginia was born.

Result: Union Victory
Union: 50
Confederate: 620

Dinner at Smoke on Water Restaurant 

 

 

FRIDAY – JUNE 17, 2022

WEATHER:  74 at 6 am mostly cloudy, forecast calls for a high of 80 with scattered thunderstorms, heavy shower at Camp Allegheny, heavy rain from Camp Bartow back to Elkins, WV                     Sunrise: 0552 EDT       Sunset: 2048 EDT Elkins, WV

TRAVEL:  Hampton Inn – Cheat Mountain – Cheat Summit Fort – Durbin/Frank/Bartwo – Old House Picnic Area – Camp Allegheny – Camp Bartow, Hampton Inn – Dinner at the Beverly Heritage Center

Hampton Inn, 480 Plantation Dr, Elkins, WV   -   Base Hotel


Huttonsville
  
After the defeat in Philippi on June 3, 1861, Confederate forces retreated to
this point.  BG Robert S.
Garnett was sent to Western Virginia to reorganize these troops and halt the southeast advance of Federal forces.

Here on June 14, he created the 25th and 31st Virginia infantry regiments with recruits from the surrounding mountain areas.  One day later, these troops marched north to guard key mountain passes at Rich Mountain and Laurel Hill, General Garnett’s “gates to the northwestern country.”

Many of the officers and men of Company F of the 31st Virginia Regiment came from the nearby Huttonsville Academy, a coeducational school founded in 1854. Federal troops burned the school in 1861.

Most of the Confederate units that fought here in July became known as the Army of the Northwest and spent the winter of 1861 at Camp Allegheny.  The following spring, they became a part of Stonewall Jackson’s famous “foot cavalry” during his Shenandoah Valley campaign.   As a part of the Army of the Northern Virginia, they served until Appomattox.

Elkwater (Fort Morrow & Washington death site)   Trenches made by Federal troops under BG Reynolds, 1861.  Nearby were the two Haddan Indian forts, scene of the Stewart and Kinnan massacres.

Col. J. A. Washington. Here, Sept. 13, 1861, COL John Augustine Washington, aide-de-camp to Gen. Robert E. Lee, C. S. A., was killed.  He was the last of resident owners of Mt. Vernon, which he had sold in 1859 to become a national shrine.

 

Cromer Top (combat on Cheat Mountain)  Pocahontas, WV    Sep 12 - 15, 1861

Cheat Mountain 

Cheat Mountain
In his first of many offensive campaigns of the Civil War, Confederate President Jefferson
Davis 
sent Robert E. Lee to protect vital railroads and regain lost Confederate territory in Western Virginia to halt the statehood movement there.  He would support BG William Loring in commanding the Department of Northwestern Virginia.  At the same time, Union BG William S. Rosecrans, in charge of the Department of Ohio, ordered BG Joseph J. Reynolds to defend the Staunton and Parkersburg Turnpike in the Cheat Mountain district.

Reynolds had about 1,800 men.  The 14th Indiana, commanded by COL Nathan Kimball, held Fort Milroy (also known as Cheat Summit Fort) on the side of Cheat Mountain. Three other regiments remained at Camp Elkwater, Reynolds’ headquarters, in the Tygart River Valley.


Cheat Mountain - Lee's Plan

Lee’s
plan was for a two-pronged, simultaneous attack on both forts.  The three Confederate brigades that attacked Cheat Summit Fort on September 12 had to contend with limited visibility due to poor weather conditions, a defending force that knew the terrain well, and poor coordination between each brigade; during the battle, each brigade acted independently and never made contact with each other.  The 14th Indiana, comprised of about 300 men, put up a stubborn defense that was so aggressive that Confederate commanders believed the force was much larger than it was in reality.  Daunted by these odds, they withdrew. At the same time, three more Confederate brigades were attacking Camp Elkwater, but the camp’s well-prepared entrenchments allowed for a solid Federal defense.  Lee soon called off the entire attack.  He maneuvered in the area before withdrawing to Valley Mountain on September 17.

Cheat Mountain 

The battle yielded minor casualties and little impact on the campaign and the war, as both sides’ positions changed little.  One of the casualties was Confederate COL John A. Washington, George Washington’s great grandnephew, killed while scouting on the Union right. Lee was recalled to Richmond at the end of October after accomplishing little, his first offensive campaign largely a failure.

Result: Union Victory
Est. Casualties: 208
Union: 88
Confederate: 120


Camp Bartow


Camp Bartow
The core section of Camp Bartow, a fortified encampment with still-visible
earthworks built by 1,800 Confederate soldiers, has been preserved and will eventually be opened to the public following its recent purchase by the West Virginia Land Trust.

The encampment was built by soldiers from Georgia, Arkansas and Virginia who occupied the
site for several months during the opening year of the Civil War, and it was used to fend off an attack by a much larger Union force during the Oct. 3, 1861, Battle of Greenbrier River.



The 14-acre tract, bought with assistance from the national Civil War Trust, Pocahontas County Commission, state Division of Highways, Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike Alliance and First Energy Foundation, overlooks the East Fork of the Greenbrier River and borders a still-used segment of the Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike, a strategic east-west supply route during the Civil War. After being routed by Union troops at Philippi in June of 1861, defeated again at the Battle of Rich Mountain near Beverly on July 11 and losing their commanding officer, BG Robert Garnett, to enemy fire during the Battle of Corrick's Ford at Parsons three days later, the Confederate Army of the Northwest, retreated eastward to Monterey, Virginia, to rest, regroup and review plans to return.

Camp Bartow - Confederate 
trenches would be at the top 
of the hill - along with artillery
In early August 1861, two Confederate brigades under the command of Brig. Gen. Henry R.
Jackson returned to mountainous terrain of what is now West Virginia, marching into Pocahontas County on the Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike. On Aug. 13, after descending Allegheny Mountain until the East Fork of the Greenbrier came into view, the Confederate force seized Travellers Repose and owner Andrew Yeager’s surrounding grazing land.

In the weeks that followed, the southerners blocked passage on the turnpike to Union troops and commerce, built a campground atop a nearby hill and developed a series of trenches, cannon emplacements and firing pits along the contours of hills overlooking the inn, river and turnpike. Jackson named the beehive of Confederate activity Camp Bartow in honor of fellow Georgian Francis Bartow, an officer killed while rallying his troops during the Battle of Bull Run a few weeks earlier.

Lunch at Old House Run picnic area



Camp Allegheny    Pocahontas County    Dec 13, 1861

Camp Allegheny - the row of trees is the turnpike - looking to the right flank of the 
camp - defenses along the far hill from the right flank of the camp


Early in the war, Confederate military planners were forced to assume a strategic defensive
strategy in areas where they could not bring superior numbers of forces to bear against their Union foe. They found it critical to control or at least monitor all possible avenues of approach by Union forces into the Confederate interior.  These included the overland routes through the
Appalachian Mountains of western Virginia.

Camp Allegheny - the stone pile
lower center is the site of a 
confederate hut
In December 1861, a Confederate force under COL Edward Johnson was assigned to occupy the summit of Allegheny Mountain near the town of Bartow to defend the Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike, which connected the upper Shenandoah River Valley with the Ohio River.  Union victories that summer at Rich Mountain and Corrick's Ford had solidified Federal control over the mountain ranges in the western Virginia counties. To protect the turnpike and the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, Union forces sought to defeat Confederates nearby.

On December 13th, a Union brigade under BG Robert Milroy attacked Johnson atop Allegheny Mountain.  Fighting continued on the rough slopes for much of the morning as each side maneuvered to gain the advantage. Finally, Milroy’s troops were repulsed, and he retreated to his camps near Cheat Mountain. At year’s end, Johnson remained at Camp Allegheny with five regiments. After the winter, Johnson abandoned the camp a moved east to eventually meet up with LTG Thomas “Stonewall” Jackson to defeat the Union army at the Battle of McDowell.


Result: Inconclusive
Est. Casualties: 283
Union: 137
Confederate: 146

 



Dinner at
Beverly Heritage Center, Beverly, WV  four historic buildings in the center of
Beverly, WV, to tell the story of the
Battle of Rich Mountain and the First Campaign of the Civil War, the pivotal role of Staunton-Parkersburg Turnpike and daily life in a small rural country seat through the 19th century. 

 

 




SATURDAY – JUNE 17, 2022

WEATHER:  60 at 6 am cloudy, forecast high of 68, sunny and clear afternoon   Sunrise: 0552 EDT       Sunset: 2049 EDT Elkins, WV

TRAVEL:  Hampton Inn – Camp Elkhart – Site of John Augustine Washington’s death – Droop Mountain – Hampton Inn -

Hampton Inn, 480 Plantation Dr, Elkins, WV   -   Base Hotel


Camp Elkwater
Federal troops under BG Joseph J. Reynolds built Camp Elkwater during the summer of 1861. The site is located eight miles south of Huttonsville on U. S. Route 219 in Randolph County. Fortifications were dug across the narrow valley floor to block the Huttonsville-Huntersville Turnpike, a wagon road leading over the Alleghenies to the Virginia Central Railroad. Following the Union victory at Rich Mountain on July 11, 1861, Camp Elkwater was key to the defense of upper Tygart Valley.

Camp Elkwater
Cemetery inside the redoubt that was 
a Federal artillery position
Nearly 3,000 Federal soldiers were stationed here on September 12, 1861 when
Confederates under General Robert E. Lee attacked. Failing in an assault on Cheat Mountain, seven miles east, Lee hoped to seize Camp Elkwater. “When morning broke, I could see the enemy’s tents on Valley River, at the point of the Huttonsville road just below me,” he wrote. “It was a tempting sight.” But the Tennessee troops under Lee’s command were too exhausted from their rugged march to launch an assault.

Site of John Augustine Washington’s death John Augustine Washington III was the great-grand nephew of George Washington and the last private owner of Mount Vernon.  John Augustine joined the Confederate Army as a lieutenant colonel, and he served as aide-de-camp to his relative by marriage, General Robert E. Lee.  In September 1861, John Augustine was killed during a reconnaissance mission at the Battle of Cheat Mountain by a Union cavalry patrol.  In a letter to John’s teenage daughter Louisa, Lee painfully informed her that her father “fell in the cause to which he had devoted all his energies, and which his noble heart was earnestly enlisted.”  The two men had shared many conversations and moments together as tent mates, and Lee admired his unflinching “devotion to Almighty God,” assuring Louisa that “He is now safely in Heaven.”  John Augustine was buried in the Zion Episcopal Churchyard in Charles Town, West Virginia, one of several Washington family members who fought and died for Southern independence.  There i no marker here.


Droop Mountain, Hillsboro, WV   Pocahontas    Nov 6, 1863

Droop Mountain 

From August to December 1863, BG William H. Averill (US) laun
ched a series of three raids into southeastern West Virginia and southwestern Virginia to disrupt important railroads linking Virginia and Tennessee. He led his second raid from Beverly in early November.  The plan was a two-pronged movement: Averell and 5,000 cavalry, infantry, and artillery soldiers would move to entrap Confederates near Lewisburg. At the same time, almost a thousand horse soldiers under BG Alfred N. Duffie would destroy military property around Charleston.

 

Confederate BG John Echols got word of the plan. In order to defend Lewisburg, he marched 1,700 men to Droop Mountain, the highest point on the way to Lewisburg.  They occupied the crest of the hill, fortifying the high ground and blocking the highway with artillery.  On November 6, Averell moved his force to attack Droop Mountain. His plan including attacking at different points on the line to divert the Confederates’ attention, knowing a frontal attack would be suicide.

Droop Mountain


Droop Mountain
observation tower looking
toward Hillsboro


Skirmishing occurred early that morning, followed by artillery opening up around 11am. Union
artillery was mostly ineffective, as shots were unable to reach the Confederate guns, which were able to inflict significant damage. Six hours of close, hand-to-hand combat along different points in the Confederate lines ensued.  Finally, a dismounted cavalry charge on
Echols’ left flank at a spot dubbed “the Bloody Angle” broke the Confederate line.  A retreat became a rout. Union horsemen chased the fleeing Confederates to Lewisburg, when they called off the pursuit.  However, many prisoners and large amounts of arms and ammunition were captured.

Although it was a victory for Averell, he failed to succeed in his objective of entrapping Confederates at Lewisburg.  Within ten days, the Confederates would reoccupy the side of Droop Mountain.  This battle was the largest battle to occur in West Virginia and was one of the last major battles there during the war.  Averell led a final raid on the Virginia-Tennessee Railroad that proved successful the next month.  The opening of the Shenandoah Valley Campaign forces in 1864 also drew Confederates out of West Virginia.  After Droop Mountain, all Confederate attempts to control West Virginia were at an end.

Dinner at Graceland Inn on site of Elkins-Morris University, Elkins, WV


SUNDAY – JUNE 19, 2022

WEATHER:  48 degrees at 0600 sunny and clear; warmed up to 70 quickly    Sunrise: 0552 EDT Elkins, WV             Sunset: 0835 CDT Burlington, WI


TRAVEL:
  today attendees driving took their own vehicles, we did not return to the hotel - the bus left for the airport immediately after lunch.  A departure from the usual format where we have a box lunch at the hotel and then the bus would take those flying to an airport.  Flew back on American Airlines  Charleston-Charlotte-Milwaukee.

Hampton Inn, 480 Plantation Dr, Elkins, WV   -   Base Hotel

Battle of Carnifax Ferry, Summersville, WV     Nicholas      Sep 10, 1861

I’ve visited here on May 26, 2015; along with visits to Gauley River NRA and what was then New River NRA now New River National Park.  Arrived around 10 am – short tour by a WV DNR Ranger – and left for Gauley Bridge about 11:40 am.

John Buchanan Floyd

In late summer 1861, Confederates launched counterattacks to reclaim the Kanawha Valley, which Union forces controlled since July, and prevent West Virginia’s separation from Virginia. At Kessler's Cross Lanes, Confederate BG John. B. Floyd 
defeated and routed a small Union force, after which he retreated to the rim of the Gauley River Canyon, where he established an entrenched encampment with about 2,000 men. The position was based around the Henry Patterson farm, which overlooked Carnifex Ferry.

Union BG William S. Rosecrans , commanding what had formerly been MG George B. McClellan’s Department of Ohio before he was called to Washington to lead the Army of the Potomac, was concerned about Confederate infiltration of the Kanawha.  In response, he led about 7,000 men to advance against Floyd’s encampment. They marched south from Summersville.

William S. Rosecrans
On September 10, Rosecrans attacked Floyd.  He attacked piecemeal, instead of concentrating his men for an overwhelming assault, which allowed Floyd to repulse each attack and inflict higher casualties on the Union men. However, during the night, Floyd decided that Rosecrans’ looming artillery posed too much of a threat for his outnumbered force.  So, in the cover of darkness, he and his men retreated before Rosecrans even knew they had gone.  Floyd refused to take responsibility for the tactical loss, instead blaming his co-commander, BG Henry A. Wise, only one instance of dissension among Confederate leadership.

Gauley Bridge - Kanawha River ahead - Gauley River enters from right -
New River behind you

Although casualties were minimal on both sides, Union victory at Carnifex Ferry 
and continued control of the Kanawha Valley all but guaranteed the security of the loyal Unionist government at Wheeling, Virginia, a crucial step in the founding of West Virginia.

Lunch at Glen Ferris Inn, Gauley Bridge, WV.  The New River and the Gauley River meet at Gauley Bridge to form the Kanawha River.  The Glen Ferris Inn is located at the falls on the Kanawha.


MONDAY – JULY 11, 2022

WEATHER:  in the 60’s at 4 am in Burlington – cloudy.  70’s in Muskegon, MI and a high of 77 in Grand Rapids.  Rain for about 30 minutes around 1:30 pm.          Sunrise 0519 CDT Burlington  Sunset 2123 EDT Grand Rapids, MI

TRAVEL:   Burlington – Milwaukee to Muskegon via the Lake Express Ferry – waves at 1-
3 feet across the lake  - it was a rock and roll journey - 
Grand Rapids, MI

Route of the Lake Express Ferry


Not my first ferry ride - I've been to San Juan Island, WA and ferried from Long Island, NY back to the mainland with my truck, but, I had never been on a ferry across Lake Michigan, thought I’d try it and save the trip around Chicago.  Ferry left at 0600 and arrived in Muskegon, MI at 0930 at a cost of $246 ($97per person/$115 vehicle/$34 taxes, fees) – not a bargain compared to expenses for tolls and gasoline and time travelling but it was a new experience.

 

Gerald R. Ford Presidential Museum
Gerald R. Ford Presidential Museum – Grand Rapids, MI  This is the last of the existing Presidential Museums that I needed to visit.  The core of the Museum is the permanent exhibit, which allows visitors to experience highlights from the President and Mrs. Ford’s lives.  The exhibit teaches democratic citizenship and allows for quiet reflection.  In addition to the permanent exhibit, changing temporary exhibits draw artifacts from Museums all over the country.  The temporary exhibit was Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel Experience.
 

Paperweight
Presidential Libraries

Front cover of
Presidential Libraires Passport



The Presidential Museums and Libraries are part of the National Archives.  Now I have visited all of them.  I filled out a form and expect a certificate from the National Archives.  Additionally, I received a crystal presidential paperweight as a gift for completing obtaining a stamp from all the Museum’s.

Herbert Hoover Library and Museum                  Visited Apr 9, 2014

Franklin D. Roosevelt Library and Museum        Visited Aug 3, 2014

Harry S. Truman Library and Museum                Visited Aug 26, 2016

Dwight D. Eisenhower Library and Museum      Visited Aug 24, 2016

John F. Kennedy Library and Museum               Visited Sep 8,2014

Lyndon Baines Johnson Library and Museum   Visited Mar 29, 2015

Richard Nixon Library and Museum                   Visited Nov 10, 2015

Gerald R. Ford Library and Museum                  Visited Jul 11, 2022

Jimmy Carter Library and Museum                    Visited Mar 16, 2015

Ronald Reagan Library and Museum                 Visited Nov 10, 2015

George Bush Library and Museum                    Visited Aug 30, 2018

William J. Clinton Library and Museum             Visited Apr 28, 2015

George W. Bush Library and Museum               Visited Aug 31, 2018

  

Gerald Rudolph Ford Jr. was an American politician who served as the 38th president of the United States from 1974 to 1977. He previously served as the leader of the Republican Party in the House of Representatives, and as the 40th vice president of the United States from 1973 to 1974.

When Gerald R. Ford took the oath of office on August 9, 1974, he declared, “I assume the Presidency under extraordinary circumstances…. This is an hour of history that troubles our minds and hurts our hearts.”


Spiro Agnew VP resigned
Gerald Ford was appointed VP 
by President Nixon
Nixon resigned over Watergate
Ford became President

Swearing in of Gerald R. Ford
President of the Untied States

It was indeed an unprecedented time. He had been the first Vice President chosen under the terms of the Twenty-fifth Amendment and, in the aftermath of the Watergate scandal, was succeeding the first President ever to resign.

 






Ford
was confronted with almost insuperable tasks. There were the challenges of mastering inflation, reviving a depressed economy, solving chronic energy shortages, and trying to ensure world peace.



 


The President acted to curb the trend toward Government intervention and spending as a means of solving the problems of American society and the economy. In the long run, he believed, this shift would bring a better life for all Americans. 

The Ford Museum opened to the public in September 1981 and is part of the Presidential libraires system of the National Archives and Records Administration, a Federal agency.

The Ford Museum is in Grand Rapids, Michigan while the Ford Library is in Ann Arbor, Michigan.  Despite the separation, the library and museum are a single institution sharing one director.  The cost to enter the museum is $13 for Seniors.

 


The tomb of Gerald & Betty Ford

Gerald R Ford Presidential Library –  Ann Arbor, MI. The library collects, preserves, and makes accessible to the public a rich body of archival materials on US domestic issues, foreign relations, and political affairs during the Cold War era, focusing on the Ford administration.  It also offers a wide variety of special events, speakers, book signings, forums, educational workshops, films and other programs.  In addition to the permanent timeline exhibit on the lives o Gerald and Betty Ford, the library mounts several small temporary exhibits each year.  I not doing research, so I didn’t make the extra stop at the library. 

Hampton Inn – Grand Rapids, MI

The Michelangelo Sistine Chapel The Exhibition was amazing.  So much . . . . .  The following pictures are only a part  of the experience.  It's an amazing work.


Each of the panels from the paintings in the 
Sistine Chapel had an explanation and an in color indicator of where it was 
on the celing painting

Creation of the Sun, Moon and Planets



TUESDAY – JULY 12, 2022

WEATHER:  66 at 6 am Grand Rapids, MI clear and sunny – the rest of the day was mostly cloudy to partly sunny – a high of 81 – a shower around 1:30 pm – arrived at the Sheraton about 2:30 pm     Sunrise 0519 EDT Grand Rapids, MI        Sunset 2058 EDT Toronto, Canada

TRAVEL:   Grand Rapids, MI – cross the US/Canadian Border on the Blue Water Bridge and the Canadian Sarnia Port of Entry, 1555 Venetian Blvd – Sheraton Centre Hotel, 123 Queen St W, Toronto, Ontario

Sarnia Port of Entry - Canada  Currently, pre-entry tests for COVID are not required.  However, visitors must register and use the Arrive CAN app.  It is required to qualify for the fully vaccinated traveler exemption from quarantine and testing.  Entry was a non-issue – only asked me for my passport.

Sheraton Centre Hotel, 123 Queen St W, Toronto, Ontario,  this hotel is going to be home from today Tuesday until I leave for Montreal on Sunday.  Getting here is difficult – in the middle of busy downtown.  Parking across the street at $20 per day, valet was $60/68 per day.  I assume Canadian dollars -  1US:1.3CA


 

Toronto CN Tower

Toronto,
POP 2.7 million, is the capital of the province of Ontario, is a major Canadian city
along Lake Ontario’s northwestern shore. A dynamic metropolis with a core of soaring skyscrapers, all dwarfed by the iconic CN Tower, the tallest free-standing in the western hemisphere.  The city  
an international center of business, finance, arts, and culture.  Toronto is definitely, a multicultural and cosmopolitan city.  There are a lot of young adults on the streets – all over the downtown.  Established as York by the British in 1793, the streets downtown are narrow – watch when your driving.

 

Back Entrance Mirvish Theatre
Harry Potter and the Cursed Child
  I read the playscript several years ago.  It
was written by J.K Rowling, Jack Thorne, and John Tiffany.  The play was  published in 2013.  I didn’t remember much of the plot.  But this play was one of the things that drew me to Toronto Serra Convention.  Attendance at the play was offered as optional evening entertainment when visiting Toronto.

 

The Mirvish Theatre is a 5 block walk from the hotel.  A large theater – I sat in the last row center, end seat (W25) on the aisle right side of the theater.  Good choice because it was on the end, allowing full view of the stage down a wide aisle.  Bad choice because it was in the last row which I believe led to poor sound quality – I had to listen closely in order to understand the actors who spoke quickly and perhaps with a bit of an accent.  You should have no problem trying to determine who the characters are grown up even from the last row.  Great movement, set design, costumes, lighting, illusion and ‘magic’

 

Hermione, Rose, Ron Unknown character, Albus, Harry, Ginny, Unk character (stock photo)

Harry Potter and the Cursed Child
originally cast a spell over the world as an epic two-part event.  Now, the show has been boldly restaged as one singular performance by the award-winning creative team.  In 2018 Harry Potter and the Cursed Child received 11 nominations, winning six Tonys overall, including best direction, costume design, lighting design, sound design and scenic designThe staging and sets were again, the best I’ve ever seen – reason alone enough to see the show.  However, a long play.  Act I is 1 ½ hours long and so is Act II.


Scorpius and Albus (stock photo)

19 years after Harry, Ron and Hermione saved the wizarding world, they’re back on a most extraordinary new adventure along with Ginny Weasley-Potter and Draco Malfoy – this time, joined by a brave new generation (Albus Severus Potter, Scorpius Malfoy, Rose-Granger Weasley)  and that has only just arrived at the legendary Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry.

 

Scorpius, Moaning Myrtle, Albus
Moaning Myrtle stole the show (stock photo)



The ‘magic’ special effects/staging are the best I’ve ever seen.  Spectacular spells, poly juice potion, dementors, appearances from a roaring fireplace, transfiguration, dissapearance and appearance from a bookcase,  a mind-blowing race through time with a ‘time turner’, and an epic battle to stop mysterious forces, all while the future hangs in the balance.









Below from a review by Alexis Soloski

Dec. 7, 2021

The 'magic' and staging was worth the price of admission
In 2018, “Harry Potter and the Cursed Child”— an original play by Jack Thorne, based on a story by Thorne,
Rowling and John Tiffany — opened on Broadway at the lavishly remodeled Lyric Theater. Also split in two, the total experience clocked in at more than five hours.

But now Harry seems to have shrunk. After a pandemic closure (and reported problems with production costs), “Cursed Child” has returned, shorter and more streamlined, its two parts collapsed into a single one and its length reduced by a third. The creators have kept quiet on the mechanics of this revision; call it “Harry Potter and the Mysterious Abridgment.” I assume someone pointed a wand at the published script and shouted, “Brevioso!”

The new version, which opened on Tuesday, does feel smaller — its themes starker, its concession to fandom more blatant, it remains diamond-sharp in its staging and dazzling in its visual imagination, as magical as any spell or potion.

The essence of the plot hasn’t changed. “Cursed Child” still opens where the epilogue of “Deathly Hallows” leaves off, 19 years after the book’s climactic Battle of Hogwarts.  On their way to that school of witchcraft and wizardry are Albus Potter  — the second son of Harry Potter’s  and Ginny Potter  — and Rose Granger-Weasley, the daughter of Hermione Granger (Jenny Jules) and Ron Weasley.

 

WEDNESDAY – JULY 13, 2022

WEATHER:  63 F or  17 C at 6 am, forecast high of 73 F- sunny morning – cloudy afternoon – a little drizzle while walking to the Rogers Centre           Sunrise 0548    Sunset 2057 EDT Toronto, Canada

TRAVEL:  Toronto, Ontario

Sheraton Centre Hotel,123 Queen St W, Toronto, Ontario, M5H2M9, Canada



St. Michaels Cathedral

Breakfast at Eggspectations
about a three block walk
"grab the eggs by the leg" 
 



 



 







St. Michael's Cathedral


TORONTO BLUE JAYS  a second reason for coming to the Serra International Convention was a see the Toronto Blue Jays play in the  Rogers Centre.  A 1.3 km (.8 miles) walk from the hotel.  Jays beat the Phillies 8 to 2.  The dome was initially closed and it was humid.  When the dome opened the humidity disappeared.  I was in section 519 Row 4 Seat 10, an aisle seat between Home and First Base.  A pleasant walk and evening – clear, calm, temp hovering around 70.  Saw ‘real’ people at the ball game. Walked around the ball park level 500, 200 and 100 - the ballpark is not in my top ten - beer vendors lackadaisical.  No team set in 2022, no koozies, no pins - did get a shot glass and a free Kevin Gausman bobblehead.


Rogers Centre  from the 200 Level- Opened with the playing of the "Star Spangled Banner" and Canada's "O, Canada" - note both flags on the right and left top of the scoreboard  - the dome here is closed
 

Rogers Centre - dome opened - from Sec 519 Row 4 Seat 10
The ball park seemed dark as night came on- the lights had little effect until after sunset


CN Tower - no desire to go to 
the top - did not visit the Space
Needle when in Seattle either

CN Tower - immediately
adjacent and across from 
the Rogers Centre








 

 

 

 


Stopped at Jack Astor's Bar & Grill, 144 Front St. W, on the way back to the hotel.  Sat outdoors.  T-shirt slogans seem to be in -  with waiters and waitresses:
"There's magic in the air, It's called WIFI" 
"Humpty Dumpty was pushed"
"Size matters, Nobody wants a small glass of wine"


THURSDAY – JULY 14, 2022

WEATHER:  62 F and sunny at 6 am; forecast high of 77 mostly sunny          Sunrise 0549    Sunset 2056 EDT Toronto, Canada

TRAVEL:  Toronto, Ontario   It appears that downtown parking in Toronto is underground – most restaurants and shopping is also underground – like Houston you can get around underground - a lot of young people walking on the  streets – probably mostly students – Universities of Toronto and Ryerson downtown - young professionals – Maybe, Just Maybe, people go from their offices to their cars and/or apartments underground.  In Toronto it’s  called The PATH – underground shopping malls and food courts.  Still plenty of people on the streets.

A short 2 blocks East on Queen  Street - past University Avenue and the skyscrapers transition to 3 story buildings –  fences on store fronts – Chinatown – seems ‘seedy”.  Late afternoon lunch at Beerbistro 18 King St – food good – service adequate.


 

SERRA INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION – this is the 79th Serra International Convention but only my 2nd.  I was impressed with the conference I attended last year in Chicago – a mini retreat of sorts.  Although, I didn’t really want to go to Canada the prospects were tantalizing.  I hope this conference is as rewarding as last years.

 

St. Michael's Cathedral
Thomas Cardinal Collins center
1600-1700    Bus to St. Michael’s Cathedral  -  I walked

1730-1830    Opening Mass, Thomas Cardinal Collins, Celebrant

          Concelebrated by 7 bishops of Canada, one a Cardinal in Quebec

His message – “shepherds according to the HEART of Christ”

1830-1930    Bus return to Sheraton Centre Hotel – I walked back and stopped for a

beer at the Jazz Bistro across the street from the Mirvish Theatre

1930-2200    Welcome Reception – Waterfall Garden - one beer and I was in bed by 8:15, plenty of food but not enough tables, seemed unable to even invite myself into a conversation


Sheraton Hotel -  Serra's Waterfall
Garden Reception - a nice venue
Jazz Bistro - this guy was solo 
followed by a group:
piano/keyboard, drums, double bass, and 
and an instrument I cannot name


 



 






FRIDAY – JULY 15, 2022

WEATHER:  62 at 6 am sunny and clear to partly cloudy, forecast high of 77                    Sunrise 0549    Sunset 2056 EDT Toronto, Canada

TRAVEL:  Toronto

This iconic sign is directly across from the Sheraton Centre Hotel
 on Queen St  in Nathan Phillips Square

SERRA INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION

0830-0915    Spiritual Retreat Rev. Martin Dicuangco Fr. Martin was ordained in 2020, a Canadian of Filipino birth – “the work of prayer leads to vocations”  the questions is “What makes our actions, specifically Christin?”  -  our actions belong to someone else – God is always with us – He’s leading us, even if we don’t know it or accept it – Christian action is about TRUST – giving ourselves to someone else – even if we fail – the crucifixion of Jesus is human failure – He was a convicted criminal and put to death – we are all stewards and have gifts that do not belong to us – we are not self-sufficient – we have to be aware that we are led and God

0915-1000    Adoration – Civic Ballroom

1015-1045    Coffee Break

1045-1145    Panel Discussion:  “Vocation Strategy in Toronto Archdiocese A panel of four priests from the St. Augustine Seminary- how they let young men discern  becoming a priest – “prayers are important” - _”pray to the Lord, that the harvest may bear fruit” – “quality not quantity”

1200-1315    Serra International Foundation Awards Lunch – Birchwood Ballroom

1330-1430    Thomas Cardinal Collins, Archbishop of Toronto an excellent speaker.  His talk could well serve as a program for a Serra meeting - Witnesses of the Word – he started by reading the last page of LUKE and the first page of JOHN – emphasized “READ A CHAPTER A DAY” of the New Testament – prayer – speak Lord, your SERVANT is listening – “ where there is more Eucharistic Adoration there are more priests – “believe what your read and practice what you teach”

Fr. Joshua Roldham

Elephant & Castle
214 King St W

1430-1530    Rev. Stephan Kappler, President & Chief Psychologist, Southdown Institute

1545-1630    Concurrent Workshops  I attended an ESGR zoom meeting

Programs      Vocations      Membership  Communications





1700-1800    Mass – Fr. Joshua Roldanm Director of Catholic Youth, Archdiocese of Toronto – ordained in 2013 - concelebrated by a cardinal, a bishop, and 7 priests – the archdiocese is blessed with an abundance of great preaching priests – teachers – this guy was worth listening to – he also spoke about his vocation story – he resisted until he was almost 23 years old and done with college – when his girlfriend said to him “why don’t you become a priest” – he called it the greatest breakup line ever

1800             Dinner on your own

Dinner at the Elephant & Castle, 214 King St, W

 

SATURDAY – JULY 16, 2022

WEATHER:  66 at 6am clear and sunny, forecast high of 78           Sunrise 0550     Sunset 2055 EDT Toronto, Canada

TRAVEL:  Sheraton Centre, Toronto – Harley Davidson – Sheraton Centre, Toronto

SERRA INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION



A new club in Calgary has an average age of 30 – one of the members spoke – “you have to have buy in from the bishop – the chaplain, vocations director” – creating an environment where becoming a priest is just as normal as becoming a carpenter, working in the trades, a teacher or a business owner -

Sr. Maria Immaculata

0830-0930   
Sr. Maria Immaculata, Professed Sister of Our Lady Immaculate is best described as a ‘bundle of joy – the order teaches the Catholic faith courageously and correctly
– you are a sister out of LOVE – you can’t say no – provide an environment where we can encourage vocations – her story, in 8th grade her principle said to her “have you ever thought of becoming a sister’ – my thought: sisters today may be as foreign as brothers were to Durandinians



0930-1000    Coffee Break – I met Mother Clare author of

Sr. Mary Rowel
1000-1100    Sr. Mary Rowel, Sisters of St. Joseph – a very educated person – and excellent speaker/teacher – a lecture “Creating A Culture of Vocations” – we have to do this together through expansiveness – expansiveness of the heart – her entire talk was full of excellent points “foster an atmosphere in which young people (and the not so young) are open to a personal invitation” – “struggles are not failure” – “keep up hope by trusting in God”

Cardinal Lacroix
 1100-1200    Gerald Cyprien Cardinal Lacroix Archbishop of Quebec & Primate of Canada  -  this guy was next to before the coffee break and in front of me after the coffee break – a fitting end to the spiritual part of the conference – his entire talk was focused on the reading of ACTS Chap 20:7-12 – a short story not in any liturgy, about Paul who rambling into the night loses Eutychus – literally – he’s on the windowsill and falls 3 stories – dead – but Paul says there is still Life – a story of LIGHT and DARK – this would be a good lecture for a meeting – a good hour but he keeps your attention

1200-1330    Lunch on you own

1330-1430    State of Serra, Michael Bragg, President of Serra International

1430-1530    Serra Around the World, Council Presentations

1530-1700    Delegates Meeting

Closing Mass - Cardinal Lacroix  Celebrant
concelebrated with Cardinal Collins,
 a bishop and 5 priests
I decided to go to Mississauga Harley-Davison, just to get a shirt for Paul’s (next birthday)
I think I got the last Large shirt in the place that had the dealerships name and Ontario on the back.  Lunch at
Kelsey’s original Roadhouse.  The entire trip took all afternoon traffic on the freeway was backed up and slow.

 1730-1830    Closing Mass, Gerald Cyprien Cardinal Lacroix concelebrated by Cardinal Collins another Canadian Bishop and 5 priests – his message referenced the gospel and readings – community and meals, Martha & Mary – 1st reading in French the 2nd reading in English

Closing banquet
1830-1930    Cocktail Reception – Birchwood Ballroom Foyer

1930-2200    Closing Banquet – Birchwood Ballroom – dinner with couples from St. Louis, Dennis Walsh from Omaha and Sister Catherine, Community of Franciscan Sisters of Renewal (Bl Solanus Casey Convent, NYC, NY), originally from Waukesha, went to Pius XI (Class of 1998) she was an Olympic speed skater (Pettit Ice Center) same order as Mother Clare; and David from Omaha – a delightful dinner


This was a richly rewarding day – the morning and yesterday was well worth the cost and effort to be here – yes, I got a few ideas but more than anything it was something ‘I needed’ – just like Cardinal Lacroix – he needed this – in spite of all the preparations in anticipation of the Pope’s visit - yes I glad I was here – it was worth it

 

MONDAY – JULY 18, 2022

WEATHER:  71 degrees in Montreal, forecast high of 88 in Quebec City – cloudy in the morning – cleared up and sunny in the afternoon – clouds returned and rain on the bus trip back     Sunrise 0505    Sunset 2045 EDT Montreal, Canada

TRAVEL:  Montreal - Quebec City – Montreal   -   .0740 van pick up at the Doubletree, 0830 boarded a bus at Dorchester Square AR QC approx. 1145  Walking tour of Old Quebec – Quartier du Petit Champlain - back on the bus to Montmorency Falls 1215-1230 – the driver did an excellent job of driving through the Plains of Abraham Park and the shops within the old walled city – from 1320 – 1640 – free time to explore returned back to Montreal at 0800

Doubletree, Montreal – buffet breakfast included with the room at hotel

Quebec - the lady in black 
holding the umbrella is the guide
TOUR OF QUEBEC – I  could have driven and stayed in Quebec but decided that a French speaking province may be challenging so I took a day-long bus tour from Montreal to Quebec.  It was a good decision.  Where I was in Quebec, was very toristy - a lot of tourists.

The guide was shared a lot of stories – interesting Canadian history – i.e. the story of the 800 women who the French King brought to New France – he provided them a dowry and land – the land was deeded to the woman not her husband in order to populate the country.  Another, apparently large French-Canadian families are a result of a church decree requiring women to have children in order to maintain the French language and Catholic faith in Quebec – this is a reason for some distrust with the Church.  This lady guide was proud of her French-Canadian heritage and history

Place Royale is where Samuel de Champlain founded the City of Québec in 1608. With buildings that combine French and British influences and the oldest stone church in North America, the square has a charm all its own.


The Citadel -
The Citadelle of Québec is the largest British fortress in North America. It is an integral part of the Québec fortifications and is located on Cape Diamond, the city's highest point.  The Citadelle was recognized as a National Historic Site of Canada in 1980 and is part of the Historic District of Old Québec, which was placed on UNESCO's World Heritage List in 1985.

\

Notre-Dame des Victories
also site of the Champlain house

Petit Champlain -
Quartier du Petit Champlain is a small commercial zone in Quebec City,
Montmorency Falls Park

Quebec, Canada. It is located in the neighborhood of Vieux-Québec–Cap-Blanc–colline Parlementaire in the borough of La Cité-Limoilou, near Place Royale and its Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Church.

Notre-Dame de Québec Basilica/ Cathedral was built in 1647 and was given the name Notre-Dame de la Paix. It was the first church to be made of stone in the city. In 1664, it became the first parochial church north of Mexico and was dedicated to Notre Dame of the Immaculate Conception. When the Québec City Diocese was constituted in 1674, it became the Cathedral of its first Bishop, Saint François de Laval. Two hundred years later, Pius IX declared it a basilica, that is a church privileged because of the important number of pilgrimages it draws.  Almost all of the churches in Quebec are named Notre Dame (Our Lady) due to some vague connection of Champlain and the French foundder of the Templars.

Plains of Abraham
site of the 2022  Quebec City
 Music festival - among others
featuring Jack Johson & Maroon 5
Chateau Frontenac

Chateau Frontenac
– an urban resort with breathtaking views of the St. Lawrence River and the architecture of the Old fortified City, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site




Plains of Abraham, also called Heights Of Abraham, French Plaines D’abraham, plains in Quebec, southern Quebec province, Canada. The plains lie at the western edge of the old walled city, overlooking the St. Lawrence River.  The plateau was the scene of a battle (Sept. 13, 1759) between the French under the Marquis de Montcalm and the British under James Wolfe in which both leaders were killed but which secured Quebec for the British. Named for Abraham Martin, a ship’s pilot who formerly owned part of the land, the plains are now a national historic park and recently site to a music festival.  We drove through the park and the site of the festival

Cannon facing
 the St. Lawrence River

Parliament Hill
is home to the grand, Louvre-inspired Parliament Building and its surrounding gardens, with the jetted Fontaine de Tourny and bronze statues of Québec figures. The bordering Grande Allée Est is known for its mix of posh restaurants, buzzing nightclubs and chill after-work bars. On the 31st floor of a skyscraper, the Observatoire de la Capitale offers panoramic views of the region.

St. Lawrence River – St. Lawrence Seaway.  I do remember the opening of the St. Lawrence Seaway – it was a big deal – opening the Great Lakes to ocean going vessels.  The European explorers who settled New France, Upper and Lower Canada used the St. Lawrence as an important transportation link. As North America grew and prospered, major development of the St. Lawrence River was required to allow commercial vessels to sail between Montreal and the Great Lakes. During the 1930s and 1950s, development activity included dredging2, digging channels, and the construction of locks. In the 1950s, the decision was taken by Canada and the United States to jointly build the St. Lawrence Seaway. When it opened in 1959, it was considered one of the great engineering feats and examples of international co-operation of the 20th century. 

Covering a distance of 306 km, it links Montreal with Port Colborne, Ont., on Lake Erie and includes 15 locks – seven of which are located in the St. Lawrence (five on the Canadian side and two on the American side) – allowing ships to transit through it despite an elevation gain of 551 feet. From there, it reaches Lake Superior and Thunder Bay, the gateway to Canada’s grain producing Prairies, some 600 feet above sea level. The St. Lawrence Seaway is jointly managed by Canada and the United States, to ensure that it remains safe and well maintained. 


TUESDAY – JULY 19, 2022

WEATHER:  68 sunny and clear at 6 am – cloudy by 8 am and continued cloudy through the Appalachians until almost 1 pm, then mostly sunny and a high of 86 in Millinocket      Sunrise 0505 EDT Montreal, Canada   Sunset 2017 EDT Millinocket, ME

TRAVEL:  Montreal, Quebec – found Carrier Harley-Davidson, Sherbrooke, QC dealer along the way in Quebec Province - Millinocket, ME

BAXTER PARK INN, Millinocket ME  WIFI worked

 

418 KATHADIN WOODS & WATERS National Monument

Sign Katahdin
Woods and Waters
National Monument
Storefront Contact Center
it was manned by a
 Park Ranger
 
Spread across a wild landscape offering spectacular views of
Mount Katahdin, Katahdin Woods and Waters, rustic and unimproved, invites discovery of its rivers, streams, woods, flora, fauna, geology, and the night skies that have attracted humans for millennia.

Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument is a new national park unit located in northern Maine. Limited services and signage make visiting an adventure.



Penobscott River


GEOLOGY:  The bedrock of Katahdin Woods and Waters spans over 150 million years of the Paleozoic era, revealing well-intact exposures of Paleozoic rock strata with visible fossils.  In the lands west of the Penobscot River's East Branch, volcanic rock from the Devonian period, mostly Katahdin granite and some Traveler rhyolite, is prevalent.  The oldest rock in the monument, a light greenish-gray quartzite and slate from the early Cambrian period, which is 500 million years old, can be observed along the riverbank of East Branch at Grand Pitch (a river rapid).  This rock is part of the Weeksboro-Lunksoos Lake anticline, a wide upward fold of rocks, evidence of mountain-building techtonics common to this part of the state. 



View of Mount Katahdin 
located in Baxter State Park
the end of the Appalachian Trail
BACKGROUND:  Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument is 87,563 acres of mountains, rivers, and forest.  It is composed of land donated by Roxanne Quimby, cofounder of Burt's Bees, but the beauty of the monument was born long ago out of molten lava and ice from glacial activity, creating a spectacular landscape. 

On August 23, 2016, Elliotsville Plantation and the Quimby Family Foundation donated the land (valued at $60 million), plus $20 million to fund initial operations and a commitment of $20 million in future support, to the federal government.  On August 24, 2016, the eve of the National Park Service centennial, President Barack Obama proclaimed 87,563 acres of land as the Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument

Katahdin Woods & Waters National Monument is adjacent to and east of Baxter State Park – home of Mt. Katahdin and the end of the Appalachian Trail.  I visited Baxter State Park on July 26, 2014.   Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument had not yet been created.

Katahdin [Ktotonuk] or K’taadn in Passamaquoddy, means “highest land”

 

“Man is born to die, his works are short-lived.
Buildings crumble, monuments decay, wealth vanishes.
But Katahdin, in all its glory, forever shall remain the mountain of the people of Maine.”  
-Percival Proctor Baxter

Mount Katahdin
View in Kathdin Woods & Waters
I visited
Baxter State Park adjacent to and west of Kathadin Woods and Water National Monument on July 26, 2014.  The monument did not exist then.  A ranger indicated that the roads were worse than Baxter – I didn’t think so.   It’s an effort to get there.  Almost 10 miles of dirt road to get to the entrance than another 10 miles of dirt  loop road around the lower segment of the park.  I did not visit the northern section of the park near Patten, ME.

Operating hours, weather, and location information. Two visitor contact stations in gateway communities are operated from May to October.

Visitor Contact Station – Millinocket   200 Penobscot Ave, Millinocket, ME
Late May-early October: Daily 8 AM-4 PM  I arrived in Millinocket a little after 4 pm – the ranger was still here at 4:10 when I found the store front contact station. 

Visitor Contact Station -Lumberman's Museum 61 Shin Pond Rd
Patten, ME 04765   
July 1st – October 10: Tuesday – Sunday, 10:00AM – 4:00PM   Admission Fee $10 for Seniors.  Even with an hour drive north, a 10 am opening is to late in the day – I did not visit.

 

WEDNESDAY – JULY 20, 2022

WEATHER:  60 degrees at 6 am in Millinocket, ME – mostly sunny – a high of 96 in the Blackstone River Valley -         Sunrise 0505 EDT Millinocket, ME            Sunset 2019 EDT Milford, MA

TRAVEL:  Millinocket, MEBlackstone River Valley NHP - Milford, MA  about a 6-hour drive.  I did stop at Central Maine Harley- Davidson and visited 4 sites of the Blackstone River Valley National Historic Park.

Doubletree Milford-Boston-11 Beaver, St., Milford, MA  Doubletree’s are top end hotels.  Here I not only received a cookie, but 2 bottles of water, a fruit and cheese bowl and a whole bunch of Ritz crackers.  I did laundry at this hotel.

419 BLACKSTONE RIVER VALLEY National Historical Park   

Blackstone River Valley NHP this was in Hopedale

The park grounds are open from sunrise until sunset. Operating hours of the visitor center
s vary by season.  There are no visitor center’s per se.  Three of the sites Hopedale, Whitinsville, and Slatersville are in Libraries.  The first two hadn’t bothered to change the date on the passport stamp (and I did not know how), appears library personnel could care less about a National Historic Park.  The Kelly House located at Blackstone River State Park & Ashton Historic District was supposed to be open until 5 pm – it was closed.   The online information is very good – none of it appeared available in the libraries.    Perhaps, I’ll visit the Old Slater Mill National Historic Landmark District tomorrow. 

The Blackstone River powered America's entry into the Age of Industry. The success of Samuel Slater's cotton spinning mill in Pawtucket, RI touched off a chain reaction that changed how people worked and where they lived, and continues to reverberate across the nation to this day.  This revolution transformed the landscape of the Blackstone Valley and then the United States.

The information below is from the NPS site.  Good work done on the brochures, an interesting story, unfortunate that there is little or no interpretation or guidance at the sites.  A disappointing visit.

 

a library is a convenient 
place for the NPS to place a 
Passport Stamp - but it is not 
a Visitor Center
Hopedale  Hopedale & Peace St. Hopedale, MA    Unique among the villages of the Blackstone River Valley; it was born of two distinct attempts to create an ideal society. Founded in 1841 as a small communal association of Practical Christians who advocated temperance, abolition, women's rights, Christian socialism, and non-violence, Hopedale evolved into a paternalistic model company town.


How it began

The story began when Universalist Reverend Adin Ballou and forty-four followers purchased a 258-acre farm in an area long known as "the Dale," located on both sides of the Mill River in the town of Milford. There they established "Fraternal Community No. 1, " launching what they hoped would be an ever-growing number of Practical Christian communities that would transform the world.



Boom in Looms

Among this small band of Yankee pioneers was Ebenezer D. Draper, who ran a machine shop that produced parts for mechanical weaving looms. Eventually, Draper's business became the main source of support for the communal association, and in 1856 he and his entrepreneurial brother, George, purchased the community and assumed all of its debts. George Draper give rise to a new era in Hopedale. His successful use of technological innovations resulted in the Draper Company's emergence as the nation's leading manufacturer of looms for the textile industry.


Combining great wealth with a strong social conscience, the Draper family maintained complete control over the town for over one hundred years. They provided jobs, built and maintained award-winning workers' houses, erected imposing public buildings, and regulated most aspects of public life within the community. They also left an endowment that continues to be used for community projects today.


Continued success

George Draper had a passion for finding innovative technology to make the production of cloth more efficient. He led the company's charge to become the nation's leading producer of machines for the cloth-making industry. The more idealistic Ebenezer, who had started the business as a member of the original Hopedale community, eventually moved to Boston and died in bankruptcy.

 

At its height of production, the Draper Corporation employed more than 4,000 workers. But, due largely to the decline of the American textile industry, the Draper family divested themselves of most of their town properties in the 1960s, and the corporation was acquired by an outside owner. By 1978 the plant was closed.

 

never found anything of
interest in Whitinsville

Whitinsville 1 Elm Place, Whitinsville, MA presents a remarkably complete picture of one
of the distinctive by-products of the Industrial Revolution in New England: the company town. Maintained and controlled by the Whitin family for over 100 years, Whitinsville today reveals its evolution from agrarian settlement to industrial giant, and offers a fascinating glimpse of the powerful family behind it all.

The First Mills

Following the Revolutionary War, Colonel Paul Whitin came from Dedham, Mass., to serve as an apprentice in an iron forge in the budding community then known as South Northbridge. James Fletcher owned the forge, along with most of the land that now comprises Whitinsville. Eventually, Paul Whitin married Fletcher’s daughter, Betsy, with whom he had five sons and a daughter. The Whitin-Fletcher alliance was further solidified in 1809 with the establishment of the Northbridge Cotton Mill.

Beginnings of the Whitin Machine Works

In 1826, Whitin went into partnership with his sons Paul, Jr., and John C., forming Paul Whitin and Sons. Both sons were astute businessmen, but it was John’s inventiveness and marketing acumen that led to the development of Whitin Machine Works, which would overshadow the family cotton mills and become the world’s largest textile machine shop.

The Growth of a Machine Empire

Eventually over 5,600 people worked for the Machine Shop, and the Whitin's built nearly 1,000 worker dwellings between the mid-1820s and mid-1920s. In addition, the Whitin's built or subsidized the town’s schools, churches, town hall, library, and recreational facilities. Like lords of the manor, the Whitin's erected grand homes from which they dictated many aspects of the town’s political and social life. They perpetuated a system of benevolent paternalism, providing job security and an orderly environment in exchange for worker loyalty.

By the late 1940s, worker loyalty was tempered by a tide of labor unrest. When employees voted to unionize, company president E. Kent Swift—the last of six generations of Whitin's to run the company— resigned. The Whitin's sold their interests in Whitin Machine Works along with their town properties.


Ashton Mills
across the river 
from the Kelly House
Kelly House not 
open at 4:15 on Wed
Blackstone River State Park  1075 Lower River Road, Lincoln, RI  The Kelly House Museum is open April through October.  Historic Ashton Mill Village is located on the other side of the Blackstone River.

Kelly House Museum of Transportation and Ashton Village1075 Lower River Road, Lincoln, RI 02865  The Captain Wilbur Kelly Museum of Transportation is open Wednesday - Sunday from 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM.

 

 

Wilbur Kelly


THURSDAY – JULY 21, 2022

WEATHER:  72 at 6 am – 91 when I reached Fort Montgomery, NY (West Point) at 3 pm         Sunrise 05027EDT Milford, MA            Sunset 1840 EDT West Point, NY

TRAVEL:  Milford, MA – Pawtucket Rhode Island - West Point, NY

News today Bibbity-Bobbity-Boutique at Disney it now the Fairy Godmother’s Apprentice – no explanation.

419 BLACKSTONE RIVER VALLEY National Historical Park


 

 

Old Slater Mill

Locations of sites in Blackstone River Valley National Historic Park
Old Slater Mill 67 Roosevelt Ave, Pawtucket, RI 02860   Open Thursdays to Sundays from 10:00 AM - 4:00 PM.  I took the thirty-minute-long guided tour of the mill start at 10:30 AM.  IT was led by a Park Ranger.  I was the only participant.  Old Slater Mill. The Sylvanus Brown House (Brown University)and Wilkinson Mill remain closed.   There were 3 rangers here, I should have started the visits here.

How it began

In 1803, John Slater, younger brother of Samuel Slater, came to America from England.
Samuel Slater assigned him the task of finding a site for a new textile mill. After searching throughout the region, he chose Buffum's Mills, a small settlement along the Branch River where a sawmill, gristmill, and blacksmith's shop were already in operation.

 

 Taking the cotton and
making it into thread

I
n 1805, the Slaters' partners William Almy and Obadiah Brown began buying the land and water rights, and on July 4, 1807, the new stone mill opened. Unlike the Slater Mill in Pawtucket, this mill required a village to house the workers. The success of Slatersville proved that it was feasible to build mills outside of population centers, thus opening up the entire Blackstone Valley for industrialization.

 

Henry Kendall Takes Over

The Slater family continued to own Slatersville until 1900 when they sold it to James R. Hooper, who used the mill to bleach and dye cloth. In 1915, Hooper sold the village to Henry P. Kendall. Like the Slaters before him, Kendall took a personal interest in the village and initiated many improvement projects. He renovated many of the homes, made sure that the houses were maintained, lawns and shrubbery were planted, and he forbade the removal of any tree without his approval. Much of the traditional New England character of Slatersville is attributable to the efforts of Mr. Kendall.

 

Slatersville Today

The current residents still exhibit the sense of pride instilled by the Slaters and Henry Kendall.  While the surrounding areas have been developed, the village core has been preserved and Main Street looks much as it did in the 1920's after Kendall's renovations. Thus, modern Slatersville is not only a mill village entering its third century, but the end result of a preservation project that has been lovingly carried out on a community level for one hundred years.

Holiday Inn Express & Suites, 1106 Route 9W, Fort Montgomery, NY

Southgate Tavern

I’ve spent 7 days in May, 2014 at
Round Pond – West Point with my trailer visited the Academy, PX, Golf Course, Chapel and museum but did not see much of the town.  It was a jump point for NYC and New Jersey.

West Point Military Academy    -  I stooped at the South Street Tavern, an Irish Bar, they had HARP – then drove through West Point – last did that in 2014 – I was here just before graduation – the Black Knights were rehearsing their parachute drops on the parade ground – less crowded today – no students. 

 

FRIDAY – JULY 22, 2022

WEATHER:  72 at 6 am in West Point    high of 93     Sunrise 0550    Sunset 1840 EDT West Point, NY

TRAVEL:  West Point, NY –  drove to Garrison Station - NYC via train and subway

United States Military Academy and the Hudson River from Garrison Station

Metro North Railroad
– from Garrison Station to Grand Central Station.

I had the subway travel planned but it went wrong from the very beginning.  First of all I got on the subway and started travelling North – wrong direction – had to turn around get on the right track and after 1 ½ hours I finally made it to Bowling Green Station.  There was a ranger at Castle Clinton, but I had to ask him for the stamps.  Everything is closed until the weekend.  Therefore, I did get Governor’s Island stamp but like 2014, nothing was open -  so like my two or was it three visits to Delaware First State (where I didn’t get the stamp after 2 visits) here I did get the stamp but decided it was not worth the effort to ferry to Governor’s Island just to see a building that I could see from Battery Park.  I did try to take the subway to Stonewall – I go to a station and walked about 8 blocks to Stonewall.  Finally got back to Grand Central Station.

Caught the 1:43 pm Metro North Railroad– from Grand Central Station to Garrison.

There is a toll and to get across the Hudson River (now EZ PAss) and a fee to park your car at Garrison Station

420 GOVERNOR’S ISLAND National Monument

Governors Island National Monument, a unit of the United States national park system, is
located in New York City on 22 acres of Governors Island, a 172-acre island located off the southern tip of Manhattan Island at the confluence of the Hudson and East Rivers in New York Harbor.  I attempted to visit this site in 2013 but it did not open until Memorial Day.

Governors Island National Monument, was created by Presidential Proclamations signed in 2001 and 2003.

From 1794 to 1966, the U.S. Army on Governors Island was part of the social, political, and economic tapestry of New York City. Today, the island is a vibrant summer seasonal venue of art, culture, and performance against the backdrop of two centuries of military heritage and the skyline of one of the great cities of the world.

Consistent with CDC guidance regarding areas of substantial or high transmission, visitors to Governors Island National Monument, regardless of vaccination status, are required to wear a mask inside all park buildings.

Governor's Island from Battery Park - Castle Williams on the right

Castle Williams is a circular defensive work of red sandstone on the west point of Governors Island in New York Harbor. It was designed and erected between 1807 and 1811, designed by the Chief Engineer of the US Army Corps of Engineers, Lt. Col. Jonathan Williams, for whom the fort is named, and considered a prototype for new forms of coastal fortification. The castle was one component of a larger defensive system for the inner harbor that included Fort Jay and the South Battery on Governors Island, Castle Clinton at the tip of Manhattan, Fort Gibson at Ellis Island (then Oyster Island), and Fort Wood, which is now the base of Liberty Enlightening the World  at Liberty Island (then Bedloe's Island).  This system of forts came to be known as the Second American System of coastal defense  and existed to protect harbors like the one in New York from British interference with American shipping.

Its usefulness as a fort began to end in the 1830s, so Castle Williams subsequently served as barracks for the island's garrison and new and transient troops. Thereafter, the castle was remodeled by the US Army for use as a prison in various forms during the Civil War and through the first half of the 20th century.

In 1901, Secretary of War Elihu Root, who worked hard to modernize the Army, also made a commitment to preserve the castle and overruled army leaders who wanted to demolish both it and Fort Jay.  By 1903, the castle was fitted up as a model, state-of-the-art prison facility. In 1947, extensive renovations were carried out with the wooden catwalks replaced by concrete enclosed walkways, hiding the beautiful stone arches on the third level and resulting in the industrial appearance of the courtyard today.  Castle Williams ceased operations as a military prison in 1965 just before the U.S. Army left Governors Island.

The castle again faced a demolition challenge as Coast Guard officials in Washington, DC, who took control of Governors Island in 1966, wanted to demolish it. Instead, the castle was remodeled as a youth community center with a nursery, meeting rooms for Scouts and clubs, a woodworking shop, art studios, a photography laboratory, and a museum.  By the late 1970s the community center moved to another location and the fort the grounds-keeping shop for the Coast Guard base.

Over time, the roof failed, and broken windows allowed serious water damage to occur inside the castle. In the mid-1990s, the roof was replaced, and new windows stopped further water damage to the structure. The National Park Service stabilized and restored the castle and, when possible, provides access to the roof, allowing the public to admire the harbor and the modern skyline of the great city this fortress once protected.

Fort Jay is located on Governors Island in New York Harbor, one half-mile from the southern tip of Manhattan. No defensive works are known to have been erected on the island during its early history.  Defensive earthen works were first erected on the highest point of Governors Island by Continental troops in 1775-76.  The island and its fort were occupied by the British during the American Revolution until 1783, when it was surrendered, along with several buildings, to the Governor of New York. More than 10 years passed before renewed tensions with Great Britain resulted in funding from both the New York Legislature and the United States Congress in 1794 to reconstruct the works on Governors Island.  This was part of a larger national effort to fortify ports that later became known as the First American System of coastyal fortifications.

Design of the New York Harbor defenses was assigned to French engineer Charles Vincent. The works on Governors Island had been completed by 1796, described in January of that year by the Secretary of War as "a fort made of earth, and two batteries under its protection, partly lined with brick masonry, two air furnaces, a large powder magazine, and a barrack for the garrison."  Fears of a French invasion in 1797 resulted in a second- phase effort funded by additional appropriations to complete and enhance the coastal fortifications, including those on Governors Island. The fort is said to have acquired the name "Fort Jay" in 1798 for John Jay, then Governor of New York State. Governors Island and its fort were conveyed to the federal government two years later, in 1800, by an Act of the New York State Legislature.  A plan of the fort as it existed that year shows it as a four- bastioned form surrounded by a ditch with a parapet having 51 embrasures, a gate and bridge on the east side, and a large magazine in the northeast bastion.  The fort was still incomplete and incapable of defense in 1802, according to a written report, although it was then equipped with a "handsome Gateway with a Corps de Garde," or guardhouse, that survives today.

Fort Jay had fallen into ruinous condition by 1806 when a second national campaign to strengthen the coastal defenses of the country, now known as the Second American System of fortifications, was implemented.  This effort differed from the first by employing American engineers and using more durable masonry construction. The engineer chosen to design and oversee the defenses of New York Harbor was Colonel Jonathan Williams, Chief Engineer of the Corps of Engineers and first Superintendent of the Military Academy at West Point.  Reconstruction of Fort Jay, renamed Fort Columbus about this time, began in July 1806 and was completed by December 1809.  The only components of the old fort judged worth saving were "the walled Counterscarp, the Gate, the Magazine, and the Barracks," according to Colonel Williams in a report dated November 1808.  The completed fort was described in a later report to Congress as "an enclosed pentagonal work, with four bastions of masonry, calculated for one hundred guns, fifty- five mounted, with brick barracks for two hundred and thirty men, including officers. [And] a stone and brick magazine…."  Also constructed at this time was Castle Williams, a circular defensive work made of red sandstone that was erected on the west point of the island between 1807 and 1811. The earliest known plan of the completed fort is a plan by Joseph Mangin drawn in 1813.

The first significant repairs and alterations were made to Fort Columbus in the 1830s, resulting in the overall appearance of the fort as it exists today.  The stone retaining walls were extensively rebuilt at this time, including the scarp that was faced with granite and topped with a new brickwork parapet. The old magazine in the northeast bastion was demolished and replaced by four new magazines erected in the north ravelin. Finally, the four existing brick barracks were replaced by four new barracks with flanking triangular structures and outdoor courtyards.  Later changes have been made to the barracks by the U.S. Army over the years, including interior remodeling and replacement of the flat roofs with hipped roofs in 1855- 57, incorporation of five of the triangular buildings as additions in the 1860s and 1898- 99, and reconfiguration of the buildings as officers' apartments in 1921- 22 and again in the 1930s. Paint was stripped from the exterior brick buildings in the 1930s, the sodded glacis of the fort was converted to recreational use as a golf course by 1940, and the flagstaff was moved from the northwest bastion to the north ravelin by 1953.

Jurisdiction of Governors Island passed from the U.S. Army to the U.S. Coast Guard in 1966.  Improvements made by the Coast Guard to Fort Jay, whose name was officially reinstated in 1904, included expansion of the golf course; remodeling of the barracks with new kitchens, bathrooms, heating and electrical systems, and storm windows and doors; and erection of chain- link fencing on the glacis.  Fort Jay has sat vacant with minimal upkeep since closure of the Coast Guard base in 1997.

 

421 STONEWALL National Monument

Stonewall Inn on the left - Future VC on the right





















Stone wall National Monument is a 7.7-acre U.S. National Monument in the West Village
neighborhood of
Greenwich Village in Lower Manhattan, New York City.  Stonewall is the site of the 1969 uprisings in Greenwich Village is recognized as a National Historic Landmark (NHL) by the National Park Service and is considered significant under Criterion 1 because of its association with events that represent the struggle for civil rights in America.  On June 23, 2015, President Obama created the Stonewall National Monument to commemorate an LGBT movement.

Sculpture in Christopher Park
The Stonewall Inn, a bar located in Greenwich Village, New York City, was the scene of an uprising against police repression that led to a key turning point in the struggle for the civil rights of lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgender (LGBT) Americans. In a pattern of harassment of LGBT establishments, the New York City police raided the Stonewall Inn in the early hours of Saturday, June 28, 1969. The reaction of the bar’s patrons and neighborhood residents that assembled in the street was not typical of these kinds of raids. Instead of dispersing, the crowd became increasingly angry and began chanting and throwing objects as the police arrested the bar's employees and patrons. Reinforcements were called in by the police, and for several hours they tried to clear the streets while the crowd fought back. The initial raid and the riot that ensued led to six days of demonstrations and conflicts with law enforcement outside the bar, in nearby Christopher Park, and along neighboring streets. At its peak, the crowds included several thousand people.

 

The events of Stonewall, as the uprising is most commonly referred to, marked a major change in the struggle for "homophile rights" in the U.S., with lesbian women, gay men, bisexual and transgender people beginning to vocally and assertively demand their civil rights. Stonewall is regarded by many as the single most important catalyst for the dramatic expansion of the LGBT civil rights movement.  The riots inspired LGBT people throughout the country to organize and within two years of Stonewall, LGBT rights groups had been started in nearly every major city in the U.S. Stonewall was, as historian Lillian Faderman wrote, "the shot heard round the world...crucial because it sounded the rally for the movement.”


Much was happening in 1968 - definitely a turning point in US history  - the US was 'losing' the Vietnam War - the "Tet Offensive" - race riots throughout the country - the 747's first flight - the USS Pueblo was captured by the Republic of North Korea - Apollo 8 orbited the moon - Martin Luther King and Robert  Kennedy were assassinated -  - - - - Stonewall?  an event not even on my radar never even heard of it until Obama made the Stonewall site a National Monument.

THIS CONCLUDES MY QUEST OF VISITING ALL THE SITES RUN BY THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE.  WHEN I STARTED IN 2014.  THERE WERE 399 SITES RUN BY THE NATIONAL PARK SERVICE THEN.  PRESIDENT OBAMA CREATED CLOSE to 20 NEW NPS SITES MOSTLY COMMEMORATING CIVIL RIGHTS.  PRESIDENT TRUMP ALSO CREATED SEVERAL DEALING WITH AMERICAN HISTORY.  THE TOTAL OF SITES IS NOW AT 423.


The National Park Travelers Club sent me a "Lower 48 Achievment Award"  for completing visits to all of the National Park Service sites in the Lower 48States



Aniachak National Monument & Preserve aerial view
stock photo - a trip to Alaska on the chance that I may be able to fly over this place  . . .
well maybe if I win the lottery  -   I did try 3 days when I was in King Salmon, Alaska

422 & 423 ANIACHAK National Monument & Preserve

IN JUNE 2017 I SPENT FOUR WEEKS VISITING NATIONAL PARK SARVICE SITES IN ALASKA.  I ATTEMPTED SEVERAL TIMES TO FLY TO ANIAKCHAK NATIONAL MONUMENT & PRESERVE BUT WAS UNSUCCESFFUL BECAUSE ‘BUSH PILOTS’ WOULD NOT FLY THERE DUE TO WEATHER CONDITIONS. 

I DID OBTAIN THE ANIAKCHAK NATIONAL MONUMENT & PRESERVE PASSPORT STAMP AT THE KING SALMON VISITOR CENTER IN KING SALMON, AK ON JUNE 29, 2017.  IT’S DONE - NUMBER 422 AND 423.  I have visited or obtained all the Passport Stamps for all  but one of the 423 sites run by National Park Service.  There is no Passport Stamp or access to Hohokam Pima National Monument.  Also on two visits to Hawaii, I have the passport stamp but there is still no access to Honu'lu'lui National Historic Site.

Additionally, I got a certificate for visiting all 423 sites run by the National Park Service.  Some of these require a week or more to visit others, like Kosciusko's apartment in Philadelphia required about 2 hours.  When I started the quest there were 399 Sites from by the NPSObama created a whole lot of sites mostly to remember minorities; Trump a few.  So far, Biden seems content just to have open borders.


I sat down at the bar next to this guy
with huge legs & arms - all the guys at the bar
 were huge - the West Point football team
out drinking, & smoking /vaping on Friday night
Yes that is them out in front of Benny Havens
The day ended with a pint and some food at Benny Havens Pub.  Long ago Benny Havens opened a tavern on the river's edge below the cliffs of Highland falls, about a mile and a half from cadet barracks. To this tavern, after taps and against regulation, came many cadets whose names were later to be written on their country's roll of honor. Many of our famous generals were fond of recalling the cold winter nights when they had slipped out of barracks and skated down the river to partake of the good cheer at Benny's. It is even recorded that Cadet Jefferson Davis, in attempting to evade some officers who had descended upon Benny's tavern, once fell over a cliff and was nearly killed.

The song that has perpetuated Benny's fame was originally composed by Lieutenant O'Brien of the Eighth Infantry. He had been an assistant surgeon in the army, but had just been commissioned in the infantry when, in 1838, he visited his friend Ripley A. Arnold of the First Class.  Together they made many visits to Benny's where O’Brien composed the first few stanzas of the song and sang them to the tune of "The Wearing of the Green"

 Come, fill your glasses, fellows, and stand up in a row,

To singing sentimentally we're going for to go;
In the army there's sobriety, promoting's very slow,
So we'll sing our reminiscences of Benny Havens, OH!

Chorus:
Oh! Benny Havens, oh! Oh! Benny Havens, oh!
We'll sing our reminiscences of Benny Havens, oh!

 

SATURDAY – JULY 23, 2022

WEATHER:  72 at 7 am high of 93 in Rock Hall, MD  mostly sunny – extremely humid      Sunrise 0551 EDT West Point, NY       Sunset 2019 EDT Rock Hall, MD

TRAVEL:  West Point, NY – Rock Hall, MD

Ellendale - the front door 
ELLENDALE 4080, Ellendale, Farm, Dr, Rock Hall, MD        My phone needed a reset – it
wasn’t working – frustrating but my error – waiting for the key code – finally was able to contact Dan & Kris via e-mail and asked him to call the owner for the code.  The owner was able to open the door lock remotely.  Two families arrived by 1730.  Dinner at
Waterman’s Crab Shack.  Same place I spent two hours this afternoon waiting for the owner to contact me via phone – I thought the cell service was non-existent – again, my error.  I reset my phone and it worked again. 

ELLENDALE is located on Chesapeake Bay- six bedrooms (three up – three down), three baths, laundry and kitchens up and down a pool, large screened in porch.  This should be a great place to spend a vacation


SUNDAY – JULY 24, 2022

WEATHER:  74 at 7 am – forecast high of 93, extremely humid, mostly sunny                Sunrise 0557    Sunset 2023 EDT, Rock Hall, MD

TRAVEL:  Rock Hall, MD

ELLENDALE 4080, Ellendale, Farm, Dr, Rock Hall, MD

Ten o’clock mass at Sacred Heart Catholic Church – a short 5 minute drive to Rock Hall - However Sacred Heart  is in Chestertown - 30 minutes away - the mass in Rock Hall was at St. John's 8 am

 

Ellendale  - House, porch, pool, pool house

MONDAY – JULY 25, 2022

Ellendale - front entry
WEATHER:  81 degrees at 6 am, partly cloudy, windy (20 mph) – forecast high of 88, scattered thunderstorms by 3 pm – small craft advisory – wind calmed down around noon mostly cloudy.  It rained about 4:30 pm.

Sunrise 0558    Sunset 2022 EDT, Rock Hall, MD

High Tide  0505            Low Tide  1215

High Tide  1647            Low Tide  2210

TRAVEL:  Rock Hall, MD – (Washington DC) - Chestertown - Rock Hall

ELLENDALE 4080, Ellendale, Farm, Dr, Rock Hall, MD

 

National Zoo - pandas - stock photo
One family went to the SMITHSONIAN NATIONAL ZOO in Washington, DC  -  Giant pandas are icons in Washington, D.C., and beloved around the world. What's more, they represent how international collaboration and conservation science can save species.

April 16, 2022, marks the 50th anniversary of the arrival of giant pandas Ling-Ling and Hsing-Hsing at the Smithsonian's National Zoo and Conservation Biology Institute — the start of a decades-long giant panda program. Join us in looking back at 50 years of giant panda joy and conservation and imagining what the next 50 years may bring.

The other family went to the National Aquarium in Baltimore, MD  -   

I stayed at Ellendale, read, got a little sun, used the pool and explored Rock Hall and Chestertown.

Per the website The National Air and Space Museum in Washington, DC is temporarily closed through fall 2022.”

Per the website The Bureau of Engraving and Printing is currently CLOSED to visitors due to the pandemic. Tour reservations are not being accepted at this time, and a date has not been determined for when tours might resume. Congressional offices will be notified and this website will be updated in advance of a change in status.”

 

TUESDAY – JULY 26, 2022

WEATHER:  70 degrees at 6 am – cloudy – forecast high of 78

Sunrise 0559    Sunset 2021 EDT, Rock Hall, MD

High Tide  0547            Low Tide  1254

High Tide  1740            Low Tide  2258

TRAVEL:  Rock Hall, MD

ELLENDALE 4080, Ellendale, Farm, Dr, Rock Hall, MD

Ellendale - aerial view

A birthday today.

Sacred Heart Church - Chestertown
a small chapel is in the rear
Mass at Sacred Heart in Chestertown 8:30 AM – about a half/hour drive.  Today was the Feast of St. Joachim and Ann, the parents of Mary.  He reminisced about his grandparents – Grandma & Grandpa in town and Grandma and Grandpa on the farm – reminded me of how we identified my grandparents as Grandma and Grandpa on the Northside and Southside.  He also thought that being a priest he was missing being a dad and having a family but as he grew older and saw parishes grow, he believed being a grandparent was easier than being a parent.  Bottom Line:  how appropriate that Jesus had earthly grandparents.

The families went to the Eastern Neck National Wildlife Refuge -  Bayview Butterfly Trail and the beach at Ferry Park.

 


WEDNESDAY – JULY 27, 2022

WEATHER:  71 degrees at 6 am

Sunrise 0600    Sunset 2020 EDT, Rock Hall, MD

High Tide  0626            Low Tide  1329

High Tide  1828            Low Tide  2346

TRAVEL Rock Hall – Largo Town Center  – Federal Triangle  – Largo Town Center – Rock Hall

ELLENDALE 4080, Ellendale, Farm, Dr, Rock Hall, MD

National Mall - map

One family visited the White House Visitor Center and walked the National Mall seeing, the White House, the Washington Monument, the World Warr II Memorial, the Reflecting Pool, the Lincoln Memorial, the Korean War Memorial, the Martin Luther King Memorial and the Jefferson Monument.

Another family stayed near Rock Hall and visited another portion of the Eastern Neck National Wildlife Refuge taking a short hike and seeing a lot of jellyfish near a pier.

National Museum of  African-American 
History and Culture in the background
 

I joined a third family with a visit to the White House Visitor Center and the NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AFRICAN AMERICAN HISTORY AND CULTURE - established by an Act of Congress in 2003, following decades of efforts to promote and highlight the contributions of African Americans. To date, the Museum has collected more than 40,000 artifacts and nearly 100,000 individuals have become members. The Museum opened to the public on September 24, 2016, as the 19th museum of the Smithsonian Institution.


We arrived at 1 pm and stayed until 4:30.
  This can be an all day visit.  Entry is timed and even weeks ago, I could not get a reservation.  However, active or retired military could gain entry with a guest  without a  reservation. 



You enter on the ground floor and descend three levels in a journey telling the story of human bondage – slavery.  The English Parliament Slave Trade Act of 1807 which outlawed international slave trade in most parts of the British Empire, emphasis was on continued slavery in America – the Civil War/Emancipation Proclamation, the 13th (ratified 1865 abolished slavery), 14th (ratified in 1868, granted citizenship to all persons born or naturalized in the United States—including former enslaved people—and guaranteed all citizens “equal protection of the laws.”), 15th (ratified 1870 guaranteed that the right to vote could not be denied based on “race, color, or previous condition of servitude.”) Amendments to the US Constitution – Reconstruction - continued discrimination and the Civil Rights Movement of the 50’s and 60’s.  I revisited a lot of ‘old friends’, i.e. sites run the by NPS serve and the history of the African American:  Nat Turner, Dred Scott, Frederick Douglas, Harriet Tubman, Sojourner Truth, Nicodemus, Mary McLeod Bethune, W.E.B. DuBois, Paul Laurence Dunbar, Plessy vs. Ferguson (1896 facial segregation laws did not violate the US constitution as long as the separate facilities were equal in quality; “separate but equal”), Brown vs. Board of Education (1954 state-sanctioned segregation was a violation of the 14thAmendment), Rosa Parks, Malcom X, James, Baldwin, Martin Luther King


Interesting that the African-American Museum
would have a quote from a 19th century
 Swedish philosophe
r


The upper levels above ground were devoted to African American Culture, Community, Art, Literature, Sports, Food, Song, Dance, etc.

 

 



THURSDAY – JULY 28, 2022

WEATHER:  77 at 7 am, mostly cloudy, forecast high of 88, rain about 8:30 pm

Sunrise 0601    Sunset 2019 EDT, Rock Hall, MD

High Tide  0731            Low Tide  1400

High Tide  1912           

TRAVEL:  Rock Hall, MD – Harriet Tubman Underground Railroad NHP Rock Hall, MD

ELLENDALE 4080, Ellendale, Farm, Dr, Rock Hall, MD

Another birthday today.

I did it again – I travelled to Chestertown for 8:30 mass only to find out that it was at St. John’s Church in Rock Hall

Two families stayed at Ellendale – one of them made a short visit to Chestertown. 

I went with one family to the HARRIET TUBMAN UNDERGROUND RAILROAD
HISTORICAL PARK
.  I originally visited this site on October 12, 2015.  The Visitor Center had not been constructed yet.

The Underground Railroad

The Underground Railroad refers to the movement of self-emancipation of enslaved people of African descent to escape bondage and gain freedom, and the network of people and places who aided their escapes. While self-emancipation, escape, and resistance have existed everywhere that there has been human slavery, the Underground Railroad generally refers to a period in the early to mid-19th century United States--particularly after the 1850 Fugitive Slave Act--with organized methods and people who actively assisted escapes.  While most freedom seekers self-emancipated without assistance, organized activity to assist escapes increased every decade that slavery was legal in the United States. 

New Castle Court House - First State
it always appeared closed even when open
finally learned they lock the doors for 45 minutes between tours


Harriet Tubman
did extraordinary work with abolitionist causes and as the Underground Railroad's most famous conductor. Her heroic efforts in personally leading people out of slavery to freedom in the North defined her as the "Moses of her People.”

 

 


 


FRIDAY – JULY 29, 2022

WEATHER:  73 degrees at 6 am, mostly sunny, forecast high of 72 with showers this afternoon, rain in the evening

Sunrise 0602    Sunset 2018 EDT, Rock Hall, MD

Low Tide  0032            High Tide  0736

Low Tide  1430            High Tide  1953

TRAVEL:  Rock Hall, MD

ELLENDALE 4080, Ellendale, Farm, Dr, Rock Hall, MD


Traveled to Chestertown for 8:30 mass at Sacred Heart only to find out that the priest cancelled mass because of an emergency.  There must be a message here -someone suggested “it’s OK to miss mass when you’re on vacation.”

One family left to visit a cousin in Pennsylvania.  Our last full day at Ellendale on Chesapeake Bay.  We just hung out here all day.  One family went to the Wildlife Refuge another to Chestertown.

 

SATURDAY – JULY 30, 2022

WEATHER:  74 degrees sunny at 7 am,  high of 86 and mostly sunny

Sunrise 0603 EDT, Rock Hall, MD        Sunset 2024 Gettysburg, PA

TRAVEL:  Ellendale – First State NHPGettysburg National Military Park – Hampton Inn

ELLENDALE 4080, Ellendale, Farm, Dr, Rock Hall, MD.  It was a good week with Paul, Sarah, Casen, Kaden, Kristin, Dan, Kaleb, Josie, Amy, Jon and Annabelle.  Missed Chad & Sara’s family.

119 FIRST STATE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK 

New Castle Court House
This has been closed on my previous visits
I went up to the door and it was locked
Apparently the door is only open for
 5-10  minutes between hourly tours

New Castle Court House  211 Delaware St, New Castle, DE.  This is my third visit to this site and never have I found a Visitor Center open.  It appears NPS has collaborated with several other sites in Delaware.  I only stopped here to obtain a NPS Passport stamp that I’ve not been able to obtain on my previous two visits.

Fort Christiana, 15411 Abbotts Ond, Rd, Milford, DE

Old Swedes Historic Site 606 N Church St, Wilmington, DE

John Dickenson Plantation, 340 Kitts Hummock Road, Dover, DE 

Kalmar Nickle tall ship – 1 Delaware St, New Castle, DE

Famous as the First State to ratify the Constitution, Delaware was born out of a conflict among three world powers for dominance of the Delaware Valley. From this beginning, the region developed a distinct character that tolerated diversity in religion and national origin and valued independence.

This is the Arsenal
converted into a Visitor Center
I watched a short video

Many people do not know
Delaware played a critical role in our nation’s early history. Delaware was the first state to ratify the Constitution; the first state in which Swedes and Finns came ashore to America 375 years ago; the place where William Penn first landed in America; and the place where the Dutch built an ill-fated settlement nearly 400 years ago.  Delaware Senator Tom Carper long believed these are important stories in our nation’s history and they should be told within the National Park System.  For more than a decade, Senator Carper has worked with the Delaware delegation, federal officials, state officials, and community leaders to identify a theme and a park concept that fits well within our federal budget and is worthy of designation as a national park.  In January 2009, the Bush Administration finalized a National Park Service Special Resource Study concluding that a national park should be placed in Delaware and every year since Senator Carper has introduced legislation authorizing a national park.  Since 2009, there have been over a dozen public meetings on the national park effort – including legislative hearings in both chambers of Congress – which have shown overwhelming support for the national park idea.  

In December 2014, Congress approved the First State National Historical Park Act of 2013 as part of the National Defense Authorization Act for Fiscal Year 2015, creating the first and only national park in Delaware.  The legislation that passed authorized the sites included in the First State National Monument in Delaware to become the First State National Historical Park and expanded the monument's sites to include additional park sites in all three counties of Delaware.  Similar to the national monument, the First State National Historical Park celebrates early American Dutch, Swedish and English settlements throughout Delaware, and Delaware’s role in the events leading up to the founding of our nation.  Estimates of construction, operation and maintenance of Delaware’s park – puts First State National Historical Park as one of the least expensive parks in the National Park System.  

 

17 GETTYSBURG NATIONAL MILITARY PARK   haven’t been here since October 2021 – and I thought it was going to be my last visit – not so - I’ve spent well over 100 days on this battlefield – stopped counting the days a long time ago - always something new to see or relearn . . . . and it looks like the Chicago Civil War Roundtable’s 2024 tour is scheduled for Gettysburg.

Garryowen Irish Pub

The first stop was the Visitor Center.  Two books of interest – almost bought Harry Pfanz’s  Gettysburg the Second Day” – the bookstore has been rearranged since my last visit -  looks better - only bought 2 post cards.

I had to visit Garryowen for a glass of Harp.  Visited a ‘new’ used print shop – didn’t find anything that interested me.



St. Francis Xavier

4:00 pm mass at St. Francis Xavier, 25 W High St, Gettysburg.  The priest was long winded – the homily could have ended in the first five minutes . . . . the readings  - I remember Ecclesiastes ‘vanity of vanities’ – maybe just a hard topic to talk about.

Visited the King James Gallery – there were a few things there that interested me like a John Paul Strain winter scene,  but no purchase.  Dinner at Ernie’s Texas Lunch - nothing exotic but very reasonable in price..

Hilton Garden Inn


, Gettysburg, 1061 York Rd, Gettysburg, PA  - stayed here on points – been here before – breakfast is not included.  They have a bar.  Everything is EXPENSIVE – a rip off  for convenience - $4 candy bars – $6.50 for a bottle of beer.  Friendly staff.

Little Round Top on the left - Big Round Top on the right
Chambersburg Pike just past and along the fence line

Drove the battlefield – the First Shot House (Marcellus Jones, Co. E, 8th Illinois Cavalry)  on the Chambersburg Pike is still not completed as a Contact Station.  Little Round Top is closed to all traffic; under renovation, I understand NPS is trying to make some sense out of the markers below Little Round Top with some new trails.   Few people on the battlefield, of course, the ‘ghost tours’ were doing a huge business. 

 

 

SUNDAY – JULY 31, 2022

WEATHER:  63 degrees and partly cloudy at 6 am, cloudy in the moutnains, rain from 12 to 1:30 - hard rain in Charleston, WV

Ge


ttysburg, PA Sunrise 0606   Danville, KY Sunset 2048

TRAVEL:  Gettysburg, PA – Perryville Battlefield - Danville, KY   Cloudy when I got into the mountains of western MAyrland, started to rain about noon in West Virginia, a downpour around 1 pm – intermittent rain until I got to Lexington, KY – no rain at all in Perryville.

 

The Confederates left the field and their dead.
This cemetery contains the remains
 of approximately 200 confederate soldiers,
mostly unknowns, buried after the battle by
Henry Bottom, a famer who owned most of
the land on which the battle was fought

PERRYVILLE BATTLEFIELD
  -  Boyle County, KY  Oct 8, 1862   On October 7, 1862, MG Don Carlos Buell's Army of the Ohio, in pursuit of GEN Braxton Bragg’s Army of Mississippi, approached the crossroads town of Perryville, Kentucky.  Union forces skirmished with Confederates on the Springfield Pike before heavy fighting began on Peters Hill.  The next day, fighting continued as a Union division advanced up the pike. After noon, a Confederate division struck the Union left flank and forced it to fall back. When more Confederates joined the fray, the Union line made a stubborn stand, counterattacked, but finally retreated.  Reinforced on their left, Union troops stabilized their line and the Confederate attack sputtered to a halt.  Later, three Confederate regiments assaulted a Union division on the Springfield Pike but were repulsed and fell back into Perryville.  Bragg, short of men and supplies, withdrew during the night.  The battle was a Confederate tactical victory, but Bragg’s retreat effectively ended the campaign.

I first visited this battlefield in April of 2002 after a visit to Shiloh – and it may be my favorite battlefield.  Fairly easy to understand and not cluttered with modernity or statues or markers.  I stopped counting, but I’ve spent at least a dozen days walking the battlefield.  I may return in September just to meet up with Chris Kolakowski who’s leading a tour on behalf of the Kenosha Civil War Museum.  My interest is the artillery.  I’ve always thought that a study of the artillery at Perryville would be a topic for a book or at least a pamphlet or a short piece for publication.

Battle of Perryville - October 8, 1862 - Opening Attack
this battle was over-shawdowed by the Battle of Sharpsburg (Antietam)
 fought on September 17, 1862 where there were over 25,000 American casualties
I've walked this entire battlefield many times 


Bought two books – Decisions At Perryville by Larry Peterson – Maney’s Confederate Brigade ath the Battle of Perryvile by Stuart W. Sanders – was going to stay another day but after a 40 minute walk – I stirred up too many ticks and it was sunny – I don not have insect repellent or a hat or my walking stick – think I’ll head home tomorrow.

Hampton Inn, Danville, KY – might be the best hotel I stayed at since I started traveling 3 weeks ago –  you know, something just impresses you - well see how breakfast is.  Maybe I need to get back in shape for walking . . . . really haven’t exercised regularly since last Fall.  Danville has grown since my first visit.  Strip malls along the “by-pass” – even a Holiday Inn Express and Buffalo Wild Wings next to the Hampton Inn since my last visit.

  

MONDAY – AUGUST 1, 2022

WEATHER:  73 at 6 am forecast high of 83 in Perryville, rained overnight cloudy 

Sunrise 0643  EDT Danville, KY           Sunset 2013 CDT Burlington, WI

TRAVEL:  Danville, KY – Burlington, WI

The end of a 21 day 3,633 mile journey with stops in at the Ford Presidential Museum (Grand Rapids, MI), Toronto (Serra International Convention and the Blue Jays), Montreal, Quebec, Katahdin Woods & Waters National Monument (Millinocket, ME), Blackstone River Valley National Historic Park (Connecticut & Rhode Island), West Point New York (train to NYC Stonewall & Governor's Island National Monuments), a week on Chesapeake Bay with family, the African American National Museum of History & Culture, (Washington, DC), First State National Historical Park (Delaware), Gettysburg and Perryville battlefields.

Bourbon does not have to made in Kentucky, but to be designated a "Kentucky bourbon," the spirit has to be both distilled and aged in Kentucky.

Bourbon is a type of American whiskey, a barrel-aged, distilled liquor made primarily from corn.  The name derives from the French Bourbon dynasty, although the precise inspiration is uncertain; contenders include Bourbon County in Kentucky and Bourbon Street in New Orleans, both of which are named after the dynasty. 

If you're not someone who drinks a lot of brown liquor, the difference between bourbon and whiskey might not seem all that apparent. After all, both bourbon and  whiskey are brown liquids—they look about the same.  And to add to the possible confusion, if you just refer to bourbon as whiskey, you wouldn't be wrong. Bourbon is a type of whiskey, much the way that champagne is a type of wine. So, all bourbon is whiskey, but not all whiskey is bourbon.

What makes bourbon distinct from other whiskeys is the way it is manufactured and aged.  All whiskey is spirit made from fermented grain and then aged in barrels.  But the kind of grain and the kind of barrels determines the variety of whiskey. According to the American Bourbon Association, in order to be classified as bourbon, a whiskey needs to be distilled from a mixture of grains, or mash, that's at least 51% corn. That corn gives bourbon its distinctive sweet flavor.

Additionally, bourbon also must be aged in new charred oak barrels and cannot include any additives or colorings.  Other whiskeys can be aged in barrels previously used to age other spirits, and they don't necessarily need to be whiskey barrels—port, sherry, and rum casks are used in the aging process for non-bourbon whiskeys.  To be designated "straight bourbon whiskey," bourbon has to have been aged in new charred oak barrels for a minimum of two years.

In 2015 I visited the Maker’s Mark Distillery in Loretto, KY.  The visit got me hooked on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail passport program.  Then there were 9 distilleries in the passport program.  I have visited, Maker’s Mark (Jun 4, 2015), Wild Turkey (Oct, 6, 2016), Four Roses (Oct 6, 2016), Jim Beam (Sep 9, 2017), Evan Williams (Sep 10, 2017), Woodford Reserve  and Town Branch ( Nov 25, 2019  ).  I needed Bulleit (Louisville and Heaven Hill (Bardstown) to complete the Trail.  However, today there are 18 “Signature Distilleries” and 19 “Craft” Distilleries on the Trail.  Not sure I’ll ever finish the trail.  But I thought I’d at least finish the 2 on the original trail and maybe follow up with additional 9 “Signature” Distilleries.

Bulleit Bourbon Experience, 3484 Benson Pike, Shelbyville, KY

Heaven Hill, 1311 Gilkey St, Bardstown, KY

Bardstown Bourbon Company, 1600 Parkway Dr, Bardstown, KY

Lux Row, 1 Lux, Row, Bardstown, KY

Wilderness Trail, 405 Lebanon Rd, Danville, KY

Angel’s Envy, 500 E Main St, Louisville, KY

Michter’s 801 W. Main St, Louisville, KY

Old Forester, 119 W. Mian St, Louisville, KY

Rabbit Hole, 711 E Jefferson St, Louisville, KY

Stetzel-Weller, 3600 Fitzgerald Rd, Louisville, KY

Warehouse & Bottling Facility, 624 Lotus Rd, Cox’s Creek, KY

Green River, 10 Distillery, Rd, Owensboro, KY

 

FRIDAY– AUGUST 26, 2022

WEATHER:  sunny and pleasant     Sunrise 0611  CDT Burlington      Sunset 1853 EDT Columbus, OH 

TRAVEL:  Burlington, WI – 0715 Goerkes Corners, Waukesha USA Coachlines - Madison  -  1800 Columbus, OH   a non-eventful (except for the slow downs in Chicago and Indianapolis) ten hour ride – a lot more comfortable than a C-141 from Seattle to Korea


DRURY HOTEL

In front of the Drury Inn
Nationwide Insurance Building
Convention Center to the right
– a very pleasant hotel, staff is 
especially friendly . . . snacks and beverages for guests between 1730-1900 daily

Ballpark sprinklers on 
the infield

National Guard Association of the United State (NGAUS} 144th Conference & Exhibition

The ‘usual’ company grade mixer was an all inclusive affair – though separated by the company grade/field grade/warrant officers . . . . cash bar - held at the local minor league ballpark – within 4 blocks of the hotel


The Friday Night Mixer was held at Huntington Park
Home of the Minor League Columbus Clippers
Company grades in the Outfield
Field Grades on the equivalent 300 level
Who knows where the Warrants went


SATURDAY - SUNDAY – AUGUST 27, 28 & 29, 2022

DRURY INN – breakfast is included – again very friendly staff


National Guard Association of the United State (NGAUS} 144th Conference & Exhibition

10:00 am  Opening of the Exhibit Hall

FIRST BUSINESS SESION

12:30 pm  Call to Order Maj. Gen. Janson D. Boyles, Mississippi NGAUS Chairman of the Board  Posting of the Colors
•Pledge of Allegiance
•National Anthem
•Service Songs
•Invocation 

12:45 pm  Ohio Welcome Wisconsin has 42 years of continuous 100% membership in the National Guard Association we get our seats up front – center – the entertainment sponsored the state hosting the conference is almost always a class act.  Interesting that just under 50% of WINGA/NGAUS is company grade officers.  That makes sense . . .  since company grades (LTS & CPTS) are a far larger percentage of the officer corps than field grades and above.  However, over 300 of Wisconsin’s NGAUS membership is represented by Retired Life Members.  I ask where are all the field grades?  Likewise, Wisconsin has 45 members attending, including 1 State Representative, 14 (31%) are retired, 12 (27%) are company grade on orders, 4 General Officers (9%).  Only 3 COLs and 3 LTCs – a handful of  MAJs – where is the leadership?  Wisconsin used to have a delegation of over 60 members plus spouses/guests.  OH IO – did not impress me.  ALOHA always works.

1:15 pm  Chairman’s Preview Maj. Gen. Janson D. Boyles, Mississippi NGAUS Chairman of the Board

1:30 pm  Roll Call of States generally a fun event – each state delegation has 50 seconds to spout its bravado – history – sports teams – whatever as their name is called in order of joining the union followed by the territories and DC.  Standouts, in my opinion, this year’s were Wisconsin, Mississippi, and Guam

2:30 pm  Presentation of 2022 NGAUS Harry S. Truman Award Special Address with Q&A Gen. James C. McConville - Chief of Staff of the ArmyHIGHLIGHTS

“we can’t do what we do without the National Guard”

“the National Guard has been “Always Ready, Always There”

“moving from COIN to Large Scale operations”  - we need the ability to operate isolated

the Field Artillery is making a comeback – division artillery – however, he specifically mentioned HIMARS – the ability to reach out up to 500 km and beyond

a defense and response to unmanned aerial systems is the new IED

“individual readiness is the key”

In his Q&A:  ‘we will not lower standards’ – only 23% of Americans are fit to be in the army – recruiting is a challenge – “Soldiers For Life – we need to inspire and hire”   -  “inspirational, engaged leadership will make the difference”  -  take the time to do the right things – don’t be afraid to take the feedback”

3:15 to 3:45 pm  Exhibit Hall Break Refreshments Available – supposedly the largest Exhibition ever – yet Oshkosh and United Defense  and BAE were not here

3:45 pm  Membership Awards Ceremony Maj. Gen. Randall Simmons, Georgia Membership Committee Chairman 

4 pm  Special Address with Q&A Gen. Charles Q. Brown Jr. Chief of Staff of the Air Force  -  HIGHLIGHTS     His remarks were read – standard boiler plate‘China is the enemy – Russia is an acute threat’  -  Integrated Deterrence  -  Build Enduring Advantages - he didn’t say much from the heart until he got into Q&A: 

Three recommended reads:  Lincoln & Leadership, Rules and No Rules, Leadership by Control Leadership by Content

You’re not going to have 6 months to prep – the next war will be like WWII – bring it all with you’

INTENT – TRUST – EXECUTE  . . . “proceed until apprehended”


Center for Science & Industry (COSI)
Governor's Reception



4:45 pm  Recess to Governor’s Reception

Governor’s Receptionheld at the Center for Science and Industry – a worthy museum
with a planetarium  -  two drink tickets but a lot of ‘fruity – craft beer’ – ran out of staples LITE, STELLA, MODELO, PBR, BUD before 8 o’clock.  Food was slow in coming – lines unbearable - entertainment – I think it was a floor space playing music




Sunday, August 28


SECOND BUSINESS SESION

7 am Religious service was Christian . . .  not a Protestant/Catholic service.

8 am Call to Order Maj. Gen. Janson D. Boyles, Mississippi NGAUS Chairman of the Board

Determination/Presentation of Junior/Senior Minuteman   Can be fun – everybody stands and then sits down based on year of commissioning as an officer – I don’t believe I’m ever going to be the last one standing as the oldest commissioned officer.  This conference may be one of my last.   I enlisted in May of 1970 and was commissioned a 2LT in  August, 1973.

8:15 a.m  Treasurer’s Report Brig. Gen. Kenneth L. Ross (Ret.), Louisiana

8:20 a.m  Committee on Credentials & Rules Verification Report Maj. Gen. Frank McGinn (Ret.), Massachusetts Committee Chairman

8:25 a.m.  National Guard Executive Directors Association Report Chief Warrant Officer 5 Jim Simms (Ret.), Kentucky NGEDA President

8:35 a.m  Enlisted Association of the National Guard of the United States Report
EANGUS President

8:45 a.m  Legislative Update Col. Mike Hadley (Ret.) NGAUS Vice President-Government Affairs 

8:55 a.m  First Individual Awards Ceremony Maj. Seana Eason, Arkansas NGAUS Awards Committee

9:15 am  Special Address with Q&A Lt. Gen. Laura A. Potter Deputy Army Chief of Staff-Intelligence 

I didn’t bother with attending the above . . . .

St. Patrick's 

0900
mass at
St. Patrick’s Church – about a 4 block walk from the hotel.    Interesting – 6 altar boys -  2 priests hearing confessions prior to and after mass – communion distributed at the altar rail – they accepted your cupped hands or on the tongue – a lot of young families – almost all of the women were in dresses



9:45 to 10:15 am Exhibit Hall Break Refreshments Available

10:15 am  Looking Ahead to the 145th General Conference & Exhibition Maj. Gen. Ondra L. Berry The Adjutant General of Nevada – energetic – “Reno – the Bi8ggest Little City in the World”

10:25 am  National Guard Educational Foundation Report Will Roulett NGEF Deputy Director

10:45 am  TBD I was there and I can’t remember

General Hokanson
11:15 am  State of the National Guard with Q&A  Gen. Daniel R. Hokanson, Oregon -
Chief of the National Guard Bureau

PEOPLE Healthcare is a priority – were 20% of the total force – the NG needs healthcare and cannot afford to give up readiness  -  it’s a balancing act – there is a pilot for a drill weekend child care program in 6 states

READINESS “it’s no longer COIN but back to large scale combat operations”  -  “mandatory training requirements are being scaled back  - ‘cut the crap and get all the mandatory training into one weekend” “OVICD vaccination is not optional  -  it’s a requirement of Readiness”

REFORM ‘integrate senior officer into the military’  “our partners know the strength of democracies . . . many still remember Soviet rule” 

Q&A quotes some force structure is gone, it’s probably gone forever“the skills we learn to fight are a valuable resource to our communities”

Noon Recess to Luncheons & Other Sessions

Retiree Luncheon I stayed through session with Hokanson, which ran over – of course lunch was all but over when I got to the luncheon

3:00 pm  Field Artillery Task Force “it’s a great day to be a Redleg” (probably, if your state still has Redlegs and didn’t give them away – I don’t think their coming back to Wisconsin no matter how much they talk about a resurgence of field artillery   -  M109A6/A7  FY25 is the year of long range precision fires - Extended Range Cannon Artillery (ERCA) sounds like this advanced HIMARS is going from 2x6 to 3x9 in the Active Duty Army – no change for the guard ‘ once you lose something – give it up – it’s hard to get it back -  talk, talk, talk about the need for Artillery – Q53 and Q-50 radar’s no idea what these things are – no talk about the FABs – sad – the NG used to have 60-70% of all the artillery in the US Army.  Somebody was sold a bill of goods.  They bit - and all the while what your were sold was going away . . . . 

Sunday Night is generally Hospitality Night  - hosted by a state or group of states – can’t say much about this – it was a very pleasant evening weatherwise – but nothing remarkable

NGAUS display
in the convention center

Monday, August 29

ARMY SEPARATE SESSION 8:30 to 10:30 am  Presiding Officer Maj. Gen. Jimmie Cole, Tennessee Vice Chairman-Army

Speakers included:

Lt. Gen. Jon A. Jensen, Minnesota Director of the Army National Guard  with his CSM tow themes READINESS and RECRUITNG & RETENTION - "I’d term these the 3Rs" – so what’s new in 50 years? ":readiness starts with end strength" – ‘know your army' he advocated getting back to show the people what the army is – what it does – i.e. less commercials about wounded warriors – the CSM was all ‘mission command’ – I hope the folks knew what he was talking about

Maj. Gen. Michael D. Wickman, Minnesota Deputy Commanding General, U.S. Army Europe – not really impressed - he looked like a general but the only thing of significance I remember is “Ukraine showed the significance of the State Partnership Program”

Gen. Andrew P. Poppas Commanding General, Army Forces Command - found out this guy is from Janesville, WI USMA 1988, a good speaker, played the crowd with mentioning of the states and unites that have deployed – spoke from the podium, but used the huge screens facing him in front of the stage as a teleprompter for his prepared remarks.  HE was good - it took me awhile to figure that out.

AIR SEPARATE SESSION Union Station Ballroom 8:30 to 10:30 a.m.

Presiding Officer
Maj. Gen. Ondra L. Berry, Nevada Vice Chairman-Air

Speakers include:

•Lt. Gen. Michael A. Loh, Colorado  Director of the Air National Guard

Agenda includes presentation of unit awards

Exhibit Hall Break
10:30 to 11:30 a.m.

THIRD BUSINESS SESSION – this session is usually boring, I did not attend

11:30 a.m  Call to Order  Maj. Gen. Janson D. Boyles, Mississippi
NGAUS Chairman of the Board

11: 30 a.m. Adjutants General Association of the United States Report Maj. Gen. Daryl L. Bohac, Nebraska AGAUS President

11:40 a.m Second Individual Awards Ceremony Maj. Seana Eason, Arkansas NGAUS Awards Committee

Noon Presentation of 2022 NGAUS Harry S. Truman Award Louisiana Gov. John Bel Edwards

12:20 p.m  Presentation of NGAUS Membership Scholarships Maj. Gen. Randall Simmons, Georgia Membership Committee Chairman

12:30 p.m  Committee on Resolutions Report  Col. Michael R. Morgan (Ret.), Vermont Committee Chairman

12:40 p.m  Committee on Nominations and Elections Report Brig. Gen. Mike Oster (Ret.), South Dakota Committee Chairman

1 p.m  Recess to States Dinner  

STATES DINNER - no speaker but usually entertainment following cocktails and dinner.  Traditionally this has been a formal dress mess/dress blue/black tie affair but its gone the route of ‘casual” in Austin it was “Texas Formal – cowboy boots, jeans and white cowboy shirt”; in Nashville its always “Country – cowboy boots, jeans and western shirt’”; Hawaii – what else but luau wear; here is was a sports theme – wear you favorite sports team gear.  I chose my “Gapinski #57 Brewers Baseball Jersey – most from Wisconsin wore – Packer’s gear I would have thought UW.  The dinner was served family style, chicken, beef, au gratin potatoes, bean salad, salad – no coffee – no wine – no entertainment.

 

TUESDAY– AUGUST 30, 2022

WEATHER:     rain overnight some drizzle in the morning - cleared as we drove west                Sunrise 0630 EDT Columbus, OH      Sunset 1930  CDT Burlington

TRAVEL:  Columbus, OH –  Goerkes Corners, Waukesha Coach USA - Burlington   - the return trip was about 2 hours shorter than the trip to get there – little of no traffic slowdowns in Indianapolis and Chicago

 

WEDNESDAY – SEPTEMBER 14, 2022

WEATHER:  pleasant in the 70’s – mostly sunny

TRAVEL:  Burlington – Sturtevant (AMTRAK) 0-CHICAGO – walk to State & Adams – CTA Subway to White SOX – Guaranteed Rate Field and reverse route to Burlington


Chicago Skyline from Level 500
of Guaranteed Rate Field

GUARANTEED RATE FIELD 333 W. 
35 St. Chicago, IL  –  Chicago White Sox (0) vs Colorado Rockies (3).  A visit here will conclude my visits to all 30 Major League Baseball parks.  Guaranteed Rate Field is a baseball stadium located on the South Side of Chicago, Illinois.  It serves as the home stadium of the Chicago White Sox, one of the city's two Major League Baseball teams, and is owned by the state of Illinois through the Illinois Sports Facilities Authority.

Old Comiskey Park
As a charter member of the American League, the White Sox have played at three ballparks
on the South Side of Chicago since 1901:
South Side Park, Comiskey Park, and Guaranteed Rate Field.  The club played a decade at South Side Park, 80 seasons at Comiskey Park and have called Guaranteed Rate Field home since 1991.

My first visit to this ballpark and probably my last.  However, except for the fact that it is on a suspect South Side of Chicago, it is a good ballpark. 

In the 2003 Season: Comiskey Park was renamed U.S. Cellular Field. July 15, 2003: U.S. Cellular Field hosted the Major League Baseball All-Star game. The 2016 season marks the 25th Anniversary of U.S. Cellular/ New Comiskey Park

Guaranteed Rate Field  White Sox vs Colorado Rockies
When you enter you are restricted to the Level your ticket is on
My ticket was Level 500 - way up there - decidely the 'cheap seats' 
The White Sox are in 2nd Place AL Central 3 games behind Cleveland
Just over 10,000 in the ballpark

This may have been my last, most expensive, and shortest time in the park for a  ballpark outing,  The AMTRAK form Sturtevant to over $80 round trip, the CTA was $5 for a one day ticket; I carried a packable backpack into the park and of course they wouldn’t let me get past security – when I tried to fold it up security said I couldn’t get into the park even if it was folder and put in my picket – So they suggested I could put it back in my car (not feasible my car was in Sturtevant), put it in lost and found, throw it in the trash, or walk to the Souvenir Shop and check it for $10.  I checked it for $10.  Only stayed 3 innings to catch the 3:15 AMTRAK to Sturtevant.

Now here’s the interesting part – I got by the ticket takers twice with a ticket that was for the evening game on September 21 against the Cleveland Guardians – I think they used to be called the Indians.  So much for Security - Hard to find good help these days.   Attendance officially was 10,377 – it may not have been that many – of course I wasn’t official.


MONDAY – SEPTEMBER 26, 2022

WEATHER:  49 degrees in Burlington at 5 am, clear skies – 69 and sunny in Bardstown, KY.

TRAVEL:  Burlington – Bourbon Heritage Center/Heaven Hill Distillery – Bardstown, KY – Civil War Museum of the West – Perryville Battlefield - Hampton Inn, Danville, KY.   I made good time through Chicago – Indiana along I-65 is a constant challenge – traffic even stopped at one point along the route – I-65 seems to be under constant construction.

Heaven Hill Distillery – Bourbon Heritage Center 1311  Gilkey Run Road, Bardstown, KY.   I had booked a 4 pm tour.  This will be my 8th of 9 bourbon distilleries on the Kentucky Bourbon Trail that I began in 2015.

 

Heaven Hill Bourbon Experience
This was much better than I expected.  I took 19 pictures (and didn’t go on the tour – read on) I wish could include them all.  An interesting history and this may be the best distillery I’ve visited on the Bourbon Trail.  I’ll let the pictures tell part of the story.  I did get here early – I thought 2 ¾ hours early for the 4 pm tour.   So after going through the museum exhibits, theater, and gift shop – I still had over an hour to kill (so I thought) and visited the Bardstown Civil War Museum of the Western Theater.  However, I was going by my watch, which I hadn’t moved to EDT-so I arrived for the 4 pm tour at 4:45 pm.  My first visit to Bardstown, plenty to see here.








Apologies - I wish this were clearer - it's the initial mixture and charring that makes a difference - some bourbons also distill more than once
GRAIN - MIXING/MASHING - FERMENTATION -DISTILLATION-AGING-WHISKEY


Oak Barrel Charring Levels


Bottled in Bond
an interesting story

I couldn't resist - the story of Old Fitzgerald and bottled in bond
My Grandpa Gapinski used to keep a bottle of Old Fitzgerald on the top shelf of the built in china cabinet at 1410 Mitchell Street - it was definitely 'top shelf'




Heaven Hill faced a fire in the 1991 - everyone was kept on working -
the distillery was rebuilt


Civil War Museum of the Western Theater
Bardstown, KY

Old Bardstown Colonial Village, Civil War Museum of the West, Military Museum, Hal Moore and Women’s Museum    310 E. Broadway St, Bardstown, KY    The Civil War Museum & the Women’s Museum of the Civil War are America’s largest and most complete Museums devoted to the Western Theater of the American Civil War.   Over 8,000 sq ft of authenticate period exhibits tell of the struggle between the forces of the Union and Confederacy, from the Appalachian Mountains to the Mississippi and south to Georgia and the Gulf of Mexico.

 


LTG Hal Moore
"We Were Soldiers Once and Young"

There is a fee of $12 good for two days.  This was much better than I anticipated.  In fact – 
EXCELLENT!  An added benefit is the Women’s Museum of the Civil War, the US Military Museum and a special exhibit dedicated to LTG Hal Moore of
Ia Drang Valley (We Were Soldiers Once and Young) fame.  He was from Danville, KY.

 

 

 

 

SUNDAY – OCTOBER 2, 2022

WEATHER:  49 degrees at 0700, clear with low fog, 61 by noon partly sunny, breeze in open spaces from the north

 

TRAVEL:  Burlington – Janesville – Milton - Burlington

The Ice Age Trail generally follows the line of Recessional Moraines
from St. Croix Falls East to Antigo; south to Janesville
and the east to the South Kettle Moraine and North Kettle Moraine 
to Potawatomi State Park
 

ICE AGE TRAIL

MAMMOTH HIKE CHALLENGE 2022

 

Hike, walk, run, or backpack 42 miles on the Ice Age Trail during the month of October 2022 and visit 3 Trail Communities to earn a hiking certificate and a limited-edition patch:   NEW THIS YEAR:

Visit an additional Trail Community = 10 bonus miles

Attend a Mammoth Hike Challenge event = 10 bonus miles

 


The new rules enticed me to take the ‘challenge’ this year’.  I walked 40+ miles in October 2020 and did not participate in 2021 – golf was taking a priority – golf still will still be a priority, but the bonus miles will save me time – perhaps a total 3 days on the trail.

 

Ice Age Trail Facts:


·        
The Trail is managed by a partnership among the National Park Service, the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources and the Ice Age Trail Alliance.

·        The Ice Age Trail is open for hiking, backpacking and snowshoeing. Many segments support cross-country skiing, too.

·        The Trail is not yet complete. More than 600 miles are yellow-blazed Ice Age Trail segments, and more than 500 miles of unmarked connecting routes link the blazed segments. The entire route is about 1,200 miles long.

·        The Trail’s western terminus is in Interstate State Park in St. Croix Falls, Polk County. It overlooks the St. Croix River and our neighbors in Minnesota.

·        The Trail’s eastern terminus is in Potawatomi State Park in Sturgeon Bay, Door County.

·        The Ice Age Trail is built and maintained largely by volunteers.

·        Most of the blazed Ice Age Trail Segments fit hikers’ ideas of a traditional, off-road hiking experience. Some segments, however, lead hikers right down the main streets of Wisconsin communities. This is by design – the Ice Age Trail is meant to connect people and communities.

·        Thirteen municipalities (with more joining each year) have chosen recognition as an Ice Age Trail Community, underscoring the Trail’s positive economic impact, locally. Together, the Ice Age Trail Alliance and Trail Communities promote the unique qualities that make the Trail, and the community it travels through, a meaningful destination.

·        The Trail occasionally coincides with state bike trails – biking is allowed on these sections only. Horseback riding is not permitted.  Motorized vehicles are not permitted (with the exception of just a few segments that share state multi-use trails).

·        The Ice Age Trail began in the 1950s as the dream of Milwaukeean Ray Zillmer, who had a vision of a long, linear park winding through Wisconsin along the glacier’s terminal moraine.

·        The Trail crosses over many ownership types, including private land, city parks, state parks, county forests and national forest.

·        The Trail travels through 30 counties.

·        One of the goals of the Ice Age Trail Alliance is to permanently protect the route of the Ice Age Trail.  Every year, we purchase land with privately donated funds and grants from government partners to get closer to achieving this goal. The State of Wisconsin also acquires land for the Trail through its Knowles-Nelson Stewardship Program.

 

 

MAMMOTH HIKE CHALENGE 2022     October 2, 2022

Janesville to Milton Segment

START 0905 Janesville Segment  near Walmart (E Rotamer Rd & Tanglewood Dr)

END 1030      Milton Segment (E Vincent & W High Street)                       3.6 miles

Return to  1200 Janesville Segment near Walmart                                     3.6 miles

                                                                  TOTAL                                       7.2 miles

 

Average pace 2.5 mph.  Carried black backpack, sandwich, water, 1st aid kit, rain poncho, pepper spray, pullover windbreaker, map of IAT segment, forgot insect repellent.  Long pants, t shirt and long sleeve t shirt.  Removed long sleeve t-shirt around 1030.  I last hiked this segment of the trail on October, 24, 2018.

 

Starting from E Rotamer Rd & Tanglewood Dr the trail follows a marked concrete path across a footbridge over Highway 26 (Milton Ave) and north along NW Rotamer Rd.  This is pitted outwash that the glacier deposited during its retreat  from an earlier Johnstown advance.  The trail veers off the road along an abandoned right-of-way for the Chicago & Northwestern Railroad.  This route along NW Rotamer Rd descends into tunnel channel.  The tunnel channel carried a large flow of glacial meltwater from beneath the ice and was the source of much of the sand and gravel beneath the outwash plain that surrounds Janesville today.   The walk along the right-of -way is fairly level.    However, the elevation from the bottom of the tunnel channel rises from a low of 830 feet just south of Monogue Rd to over 900 feet at the position of the former ice margin.  Just like on my return route when I came back to NW Rotamer Rd the water under pressure was flowing uphill in the tunnel channel as it approached the ice edge.  When I started, I didn’t realize the walk was downhill until I returned.

 

 

 

THURSDAY – OCTOBER 6, 2022

WEATHER:  51 degrees sunny and clear at 0700; 56 at 8 am; high of 66 and cloudy at 1100 – by noon rain was in the air.

TRAVEL:  Burlington – Hwy 12 IAT Trailhead - Whitewater - Whitewater Lake - Burlington


ICE AGE TRAIL

MAMMOTH HIKE CHALLENGE 2022

Whitewater Lake Segment

START 0810           Whitewater Lake  Segment  STH 12 trailhead

END 1005               Leopold Bench at Whitewater Lake lookout       4.0 miles

Return to  1210 Whitewater Lake Segment STH 12 trailhead           4.0 miles

                                                         TOTAL                                       8.0 miles

 

Average pace 2.0. mph.  With a short stop at the Whitewater Lake lookout for a sandwich and when Bob M gave me a phone call from Philadelphia.  Carried black backpack, sandwich, water, 1st aid kit, rain poncho, pullover windbreaker, map of IAT segment, insect repellent.  Long pants, t shirt and long sleeve t shirt.  Removed long sleeve t-shirt around 0840 – worked up a sweat on the moraine.  I last hiked this segment of the trail on June 6, 2018 – most of it was in the rain.

From the STH 12 trailhead , the trail goes west following the Green Bay Lobe edge of the Kettle Moraine.  The Kettle Moraine is basically where the Green Bay and Lake Michigan Lobes met.  This is high relief hummocky topography (step slopes and deep depressions) a lot of ups and downs - hills.  Th low area to the west is the bed of glacial Lake Scuppernong.  The trail descends south into high pitted outwash to Easterly Rd.   Although the plain is quite flat – it is over 100 feet higher than the flat surface of glacial Lake Scuppernong

About one-third of a mile west of Easterly Rd the trail again enters high relief  hummocky topography and crosses an esker  before crossing CTH P.  This esker appears to connect to another running down the center of Whitewater Lake.  West of CTH P the trail runs into another broad esker.  Water in the glacial tunnels in which the eskers formed flowed to the southwest.    The depressions that hold Whitewater and Rice Lakes are kettles, but both lakes are held at their present levels by dams built in the mid 20th century.   Before the dams, Whitewater Lake was actually two small lakes separated by a wetland.  Rice Lake was a wetland.

This plaque is in Perryville - on Hwy 150 by the cemetery

Perryville Battlefield, Perryville, KY  -  I pretty much drove the route taken by part of MG Don Carlos Buell’s Army of the Ohio Third Corps to Bardstown.  All three of his corps (MG McCook I Corps, MG Crittenden II Corps and ‘acting’ MG Gilbert III Corps) met at Bardstown.  From there they split and took three separate routes to Perryville.  Interestingly, LTG Braxton Bragg’s Confederate Army had been in Bardstown before the Federals.  I drove the Springfield Pike (Hwy 150) from Bardstown to Perryville  -  pretty much the way the Confederates did through Springfield.   Perryville was the real reason for the trip down here – didn’t see anything that I have not seen before but it was early evening – the weather was pleasant and I saw much more of the sites than I did when I stopped here back in July.

LTG Braxton Bragg's Invasion of Kentucky
Along with MG Kirby Smith, who captured Lexington, they installed Governor Richard Hawes as the Confederate Governor of Kentucky in Frankfort on October 7, 1862
The installation distracted Bragg from his real objective MG Don Carlos Buell's
Army of the Ohio.  In fact the ceremony was interrupted by MG Sill's Division's bombardment on the outskirts of Frankfort.


Good eyes may be able to read the plaque above - a synopsis of the Battle of Perryville


I took 25 pictures in less than an hour and a half on the battlefield.  I knew where I wanted to go and what I wanted to see.  There were some new sights on the battlefield.  Writing this a few days after the visit – I think I took more pictures today than I did on the tour.  There is always something more to see – more to learn – relearn or remember.  I’ll let the pictures compliment the story of the battle that begins tomorrow.

 

Hampton Inn, Danville, KY – I’ve stayed here in the past.  I was not greeted as a Diamond Club member – the room is large but cold, i.e. looks sparsely furnished – but comfortable.

Dinner at O Charley’s.

 

  

TUESDAY – SEPTEMBER 27, 2022

WEATHER:  44 and clear Danville, KY at 6 am, forecast high of 68 degrees

Sunrise:  0731 EDT                  Sunset:  0738 EDT

TRAVEL:  Hampton Inn, Danville, KY – Perryville Battlefield – Hampton Inn, Danville, KY

 

Perryville offering
a Fall Welcome
PERRYVILLE BATTLEFIELD – This battle was fought on October 8, 1862 in Perryville, KY.  My first visit here was on a return trip from Shiloh in the spring of 2003.  It was a ‘gem’ then it has grown since then thanks to the Civil War Preservation Trust.  This is may favorite civil war battlefield - mostly because there is little development and few obtrusive monuments.  The land is pretty much the way it was in 1862.  Some development and a road or two that wasn’t there in 1862 but pretty much a ‘pristine’ battlefield.

On Loomis Heights
Goldenrod is the KY State Flowe
r

I plan to meet a group from the
Kenosha Civil War Museum that is scheduled to be here today.  My primary reason for joining the group today is to meet up with historian Chris Kolakowski – a guy I met years ago when he was working for the Perryville Enhancement Project.  I hope he can provide some insight.  I’ve visited here about 20 times – once with the Chicago Civil War Roundtable tour led by Ed Bearss

 Few Confederates took much notice of Perryville . . . it looked little different from those through which they had already marched.  One exception, Texan John Street pronounced it “a beautiful village . . . in one of the finest countries I ever saw.  You cannot travel in this portion of Kentucky without being all the while in a lane – all the country is fenced up and is nearly as open as the prairies of Texas.  All the timber nearly being cut away”    Noe  p.131

 

I arrived at 0900, the bus shortly after.  I met Doug Damaan, Education Manager for the Kenosha Civil War Museum, and the tour guide Chris Kolakowski, Director Wisconsin Veterans Museum.  There were a few other faces that I recognized on the bus.

0900 – 1000  Viewed the CD, visit the museum and gift shop.

STOP 1 – 1015  walked halfway back to the entrance near marker #2 The Opening Attack.  BG Daniel S Donelson ‘s(nephew of President Andrew Jackson) Brigade consisted of the 8th, 15th, 16th, 38th and 51st TN INF REGTS and CPT William Carnes TN LT ARTY was one of four brigades in MG Benjamin F Cheatham’s 1st DIV, MG Leonidas Polk’s RIGHT WING, GEN Braxton Bragg’s Army of the Mississippi.

 

Perryville - The Opening Attack - Donelson's Brigade (3 Regiments)

After arriving at the staging area near the Goodknight House along the river bottomlands, Carnesbattery and the 8th & 51st TN were detached to assist with the artillery preparatory bombardment several hundred yards to the left.  Donelson would lead the main attack around 2 pm on 8 October 1862.  The three remaining regiments ran into a murderous crossfire from Parson’s Improvised US Battery and Harris’s 19th IN BTRY.

 

View of Parson's Ridge - The Open Knob

 

CPT Charles C Parsons


STOP 2 – 1055
walked back up the paved road past the VC and cemetery to an opening in the fence leading to the Open Knob.  Confederate BG George Maney’s Brigade (41 GA, 1st, 6th, 9th 27th TN and CPT Melachon Smith’s MS BTRY  1LT William Turner) attacked the union left flank (to the right of Donelson’s Brigade) on the Open Knob.  The rolling terrain initially hid his men from Parson’s Battery.  After proceeding several hundred yards through the woods, Maney’s men discovered the lethal danger of attacking the ridge and sought shelter behind a split rail fence.  

On top of Parsons Ridge - The Open Knob

The southern officers knew that they had to take the hill – the brigade renewed the charge. 

View of Starkweather Hill from the Open Knob - The Cornfield is to the left between the ridges (hill) - the cannon of Bush and Simonson's Batteries were on Starkweather Hill

STOP 3 – 1110
walked up to the top of the Open Knob.  The OPEN KNOB Defense of Parson’s Ridge.  Union BG William Terrill had ordered eight cannon to this ridge.    As Confederate troops appeared at a split rail fence below the hill he ordered a bayonet charge by the 123rd IL.   A poor decision.   Outnumbered, they were driven back with heavy casualties.  Terrill’s inexperienced brigade (80th IL, 123rd IL, 105 OH, Garrard’s DET and Parson’s Improvised Battery) could not withstand the veteran confederate attackers. Terrill’s men were forced from the hill.  Division Commander, BG James S Jackson (Terrill’s BDE, Webster’s BDE) was also on the hill with Terrill.  Jackson was struck by two bullets and fell to the ground. KIA.  Terrill’s Brigade gave way, Parson’s lost 7 of his 8 guns.  The brigade retreated through COL John Starkweather’s Brigade which was placed several hundred yards to the rear on another ridge.

 

STOP 4 – 1120 walked down to the Cornfield.  The 21st WI was supposed to be in reserve
behind
Starkweather Hill, however due to, perhaps-a grudge held by Division Commander BG Lowell H Rousseau (Harris’ BDE, Lytle’s BDE, Starkweather’s BDE), it was ordered to occupy the cornfield in a valley between the Open Knob and Starkweather Hill to serve as an ‘ambush’.   A bad position.   In the army less than a month, many of these new recruits had never even fired their rifles.  They waited in the cornfield as Terrill’s panicked retreating soldiers ran through them.  They held their ground until Maney’s veteran confederates pushed them back..  They were caught in a death trap – friendly fire to the rear and enemy fire to the front.  With the 21st WI driven from the cornfield, Maney’s BDE continued their attack toward Starkweather’s Hill.

 

STOP 5 – 1140 walk to Starkweather Hill.  COL John Starkweather’s Brigade (24 IL, 79 PA, 1 WI, 21 WI and CPT Asahel K Bush’s 4th BTRY IN LT ARTY and CPT David C Stone’s BTRY A KY LT ARTY) stood as the only defense between the attacking confederates and the Union wagons that carried ammunition and medical supplies at the Dixville Crossroads. 

 

Dixville Crossroads

Although nearing exhaustion Maney’s BDE found the strength to attack up another steep slope.  They killed and wounded most of the Federal artillerymen and captured the cannon before in the confusion of battle, they mistakenly fell back in retreat. 

Regrouping at the road, the Confederates charged two more times and with Stewarts BDE (4th, 5th, 24th, 31st, 33rd TN and CPT T.J.. Stanford’s MS BTRY) attacking across the field drove Starkweather’s soldiers off the ridge.

The Confederate High Water Mark 
or Starkweather's Wall


STOP 6 1155 – we walked to the next ridge the Confederate High Water Mark, Starkweather’s Wall. This was the previous location of a barn/goat farm that has since been razed and added to the park.

At this point the group retraced their steps and returned to the Visitor Center and had a box lunch in the park’s pavilion.  I walked down the hill to Whites Road and then to Marker #9 Act of Mercy to Marker #10 Bloodbath at the Crib and to Marker #11 Valley of Death and to the Visitor Center and lunch.

 

STOP 7 1330 the group got on the bus went the long way to Marker #17 Loomis Heights.  I followed in my car and when the bus back into Bottom Lane I drove all the way around, back to the park entrance and then to the Defense of  Loomis Heights & Simonson’s Indiana Battery

This may be my most favorite marker on the Perryville Battlefield
From Loomis Heights it identifiies the placement of the Confederate Artillery Batteries
from left to right - Lumden's AL Btry Jones Bde 727 yds
Carnes TN Btry Donelson's Bde 1,795 yds
Stanfords MS Btry Stewarts's Bde 1,614 yds
Semples' AL Btry Wood's Bde 1,173 yds
Darden's MS Btry - Johnson's Bde 1,054 yds 1st section
I've physically been on the site of each of those batteries
  

The six guns of CPT Peter Simonson’s 5th BTRY IN LT ARTY anchored the center of the Union line.  Prior to the Confederate attack Simonsen and CPT Cyrus Loomis engaged in an artillery duel COL Thomas M Jones’ Brigade (27th, 30th, 34 MS and CPT Charles L. Lumsden’s BTRY F, 2nd AL LT ARTY) met a deadly surprise as the assaulted the heights manned by cannons of Loomis and Simonson supported by COL William H Lytle’s Brigade (42nd IN, 88th IL, 15th KY, 3rd, 10th OH).

I may have missed it but Kolakowski gave very little attention to the Bottom House and the attacks of Brown’s, Adam’s and Cleburne’s brigades which eventually forced the Union forces back to the Dixville Crossroads.

STOP 8  1420 we walked to the Cleburne’s Attack marker. 


 
 

STOP 9  1450 drove past the Russell House to where the  park manager’s house used to be, on Whites Road, near the Marker’s for Webster’s Brigade and Harris’s Battery.  CPT Samuel J Harris 19th BTRY IN LT ARTY supported COL George Webster’s Brigade (80th IN, 50th, 98th, 121st  OH).   When BG Daniel Donelson attacked he faced Harris’s 19th BTRY IN LT ARTY to his front.  Donelson thinking he was attacking the union flank was actually attacking the Union center. 

 


Confederates led by BG Sterling A.M. Wood’s Brigade  (16th, 33rd AL, 3 Conf Inf, 1st BN MS SS, 32nd, 45 MS and CPT Henry C Semple’s AL BTRY)  eventually overran the battery.  The confederates capture four of Harris’s six guns. 

View of the Russell House location
from Harris' Battery position
 


After capturing
Harris’s BTRY, a confederate brigade led by BG St. John R Liddell (5th,6th,7th,8th AR and Swett’s MS BTRY) moved up to support advancing southern units.  Night was falling as Liddell’s men moved forward, they fired upon by a dark line of soldiers.  Cries of “You are firing upon friends; For God’s sake stop” were heard.  Liddell’s men ceased fire MG Leonidas Polk rode forward  to investigate this possible instance of friendly fire. 

 

Polk immediately found the Colonel of the mysterious regiment and asked why he was firing upon friends.  The colonel replied “I don’t think they are friends.”  This man was COL Squire Keith  of the 22nd IN  Polk then realized that he was within enemy lines.  He continued to pretend he was a union officer and rode down the line shouting to the federal troops to “cease fire”.  He quickly turned his horse and headed back to the confederate line and ordered his men to attack.  The casualties for the 22nd IN were horrific, nearly 70% casualties including COL Keith KIA.

 

Union reinforcements commanded by COL Michael Gooding arrived and suffered 33% casualties.  With night falling Polk called off the attack.  LTG Bragg realized that he had won tactically but had only faced one-third of MG Don Carlos Buell’s Army of the Ohio.  Buell still had 2 fresh corps that he could commit the next day.  Bragg withdrew from the field in silence that night.

 

Merchant's Row
these are original 1862 structures
STOP 10 – 1530 Merchant’s Row and the fight in Perryville.  COL William P Carlin’s
Brigade
(21st, 38th IL, 101 OH, 15th WI and 2 sections of the 2nd MN BTRY commanded by LT Richard L Dawley drove the confederates from the edge to Perryville and to the Chaplin River along Merchants Row.  The Confederates fought a delaying action to allow the retreat.

 

I drove to along the Old Springfield Road to the vicinity of  and the supposed site of the Buell’s HQ – the Dorsey House is no longer there, nor is a state marker.  I also located Peter’s Hill – it is not inside the park.

The weather was perfect - I could have stayed another day or two.


Dinner at Applebee’s in Danville – must be under the same management as those in Orlando – truly a downward trend for Applebee’s.

 


WEDNESDAY – SEPTEMBER 28, 2022

WEATHER:  37 degrees in Danville, KY at 0700 EDT

 BIG EVENT OF THE DAY:

  HURRICANE IAN (CAT IV) HITS FORT MYERS, FL

TRAVEL:  Hampton Inn, Danville, KY – Bulleit Distillery, Shelbyville, KY – Burlington, WI

 

Welcome Center
Bulleit Distillery, 3464 Benson Pike, Shelbyville, KY  I booked an 11 am tour – this was on the way home from Danville, just outside of Louisville.  Unfortunately the 10 am tour was booked. 

This was a little difficult to find – the GPS on my vehicle took me to an address about ¾ mile down the road – I wasn’t the only one who was taken to the wrong address.  Using Google Maps on my phone brought me to the right place.  It’s in the middle of somewhere.

 


Distillery built by Diageo
Beverage Co  (London) in 2014
Fairly new, the distillery was built in 1987 by Mr. Thomas Bulleit – an old family recipe.   The first original batch of Bulleit bourbon came from Augustus Bulleit in 1830. But it was 1987 when Thomas Bulleit tried to revive the recipe, and it became the Bulleit Bourbon we all enjoy up to this day.

 

Thomas decided to open Bulleit Distilling Company to pay homage to the unique blend of their family recipe.  The distillery uses high-quality grains and pure limestone filtered water; the mash is fermented, distilled, and aged in new charred oak barrels. Bulleit  Bourbon is aged for 6 years.  Bulleit Bourbon is a high rye bourbon whiskey that contains 68% corn, 4% malted barley, and 28% rye.  Bourbon needs to aged in charred barrels for at least two years.  The guide indicated that Bulleit uses Char One in its barrel’s

Apparently, Thomas Bulleit sold to Seagram’s.  The Seagram Company Ltd (which traded as Seagram's) was a Canadian multinational Conglomerate formerly headquartered in Montreal Quebec. Originally a distiller based in Waterloo, Onatrio, it was once (in the 1990s) the largest owner of alcoholic beverage lines in the world. 

After Mashing and Fermentation comes Distillation
The still at the right is a model of the 3 story still on the other side of the glass

Toward the end of its independent existence, it also controlled various entertainment and other business ventures.  Its purchase of MCA Inc.   whose assets included Universal Studios and its theme parks, was financed through the sale of Seagram's 25% holding of chemical company DU Pont , a position it acquired in 1981.  Seagram later imploded, with its beverage assets wholesaled off to various industry titans, notably DiageoInfinium Spirits, and Pernod Ricard.   Universal's television holdings were sold to media entrepreneur Barry Diller, and the balance of the Universal entertainment empire and what was Seagram was sold to French conglomerate  Vivendiin 2000.

 

Tasting and smelling
all to get a "Kentucky Hug" - 
that warm feeling after you take a shot of bourbon
Bulleit’s  history was not covered by the tour guide.  When Seagrams was split up the Bulleit brand became a part of the Diageo whiskey portfolio in 2001 and has been thriving ever since.  In May of 2014 Diageo announced it had purchased 300 acres in Shelbyville, Kentucky to build a brand new distillery in the heart of bourbon country.

 

The tour was through the new distillery, viewed from behind glass windows.  The tasting consisted of 3 kinds of Bulleit – green label, orange label (rye) and single barrel.  I almost passed this up, I’m glad I didn’t.

Finished the 'old' Kentucky Bourbon Trail




This also completes the original Bourbon Trail passport program.  See the detail explained on Monday August 1, 2022 for more information.  The original passport, sponsored by the Kentucky Distiller Association  asks you to mail the passport to Kentucky Bourbon Trail, 838 High Street, Suite 165, Louisville, KY.  They indicate they will mail a souvenir t-shirt and return your passport.  I just may try that.  And so I did and the passport and was returned as 'undeliverable'.. 


I thought this was going to end my travels in 2022 but I decided to walk the Mammoth Challenge 2022 for the Ice Age Trail.  Continue to follow






SUNDAY – OCTOBER 2, 2022

WEATHER:  49 degrees at 0700, clear with low fog, 61 by noon partly sunny, breeze in open spaces from the north

TRAVEL:  Burlington – Janesville – Milton - Burlington

ICE AGE TRAIL

MAMMOTH HIKE CHALLENGE 2022

Hike, walk, run, or backpack 42 miles on the Ice Age Trail during the month of October 2022 and visit 3  Trail Communities to earn a hiking certificate and a limited-edition patch:   

NEW THIS YEAR:

Visit an additional Trail Community = 10 bonus miles

Attend a Mammoth Hike Challenge event = 10 bonus miles

The new rules enticed me to take the ‘challenge’ this year’.  I walked 40+ miles in October 2020 and did not participate in 2021 – golf was taking a priority – golf still will still be a priority, but the bonus miles will save me time – perhaps a total 3 days on the trail.

Ice Age Trail Facts:

·        The Trail is managed by a partnership among the National Park Service, the Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources and the Ice Age Trail Alliance.

·        The Ice Age Trail is open for hiking, backpacking and snowshoeing. Many segments support cross-country skiing, too.

·        The Trail is not yet complete. More than 600 miles are yellow-blazed Ice Age Trail segments, and more than 500 miles of unmarked connecting routes link the blazed segments. The entire route is about 1,200 miles long.

·        The Trail’s western terminus is in Interstate State Park in St. Croix Falls, Polk County. It overlooks the St. Croix River and our neighbors in Minnesota.

·        The Trail’s eastern terminus is in Potawatomi State Park in Sturgeon Bay, Door County.

·        The Ice Age Trail is built and maintained largely by volunteers.

·        Most of the blazed Ice Age Trail Segments fit hikers’ ideas of a traditional, off-road hiking experience. Some segments, however, lead hikers right down the main streets of Wisconsin communities.  This is by design – the Ice Age Trail is meant to connect people and communities.

·        Thirteen municipalities (with more joining each year) have chosen recognition as an Ice Age Trail Community, underscoring the Trail’s positive economic impact, locally. Together, the Ice Age Trail Alliance and Trail Communities promote the unique qualities that make the Trail, and the community it travels through, a meaningful destination.

·        The Trail occasionally coincides with state bike trails – biking is allowed on these sections only. Horseback riding is not permitted.  Motorized vehicles are not permitted (with the exception of just a few segments that share state multi-use trails).

·        The Ice Age Trail began in the 1950s as the dream of Milwaukeean Ray Zillmer, who had a vision of a long, linear park winding through Wisconsin along the glacier’s terminal moraine.

·        The Trail crosses over many ownership types, including private land, city parks, state parks, county forests and national forest.

·        The Trail travels through 30 counties.

·        One of the goals of the Ice Age Trail Alliance is to permanently protect the route of the Ice Age Trail.  Every year, we purchase land with privately donated funds and grants from government partners to get closer to achieving this goal. The State of Wisconsin also acquires land for the Trail through its Knowles-Nelson Stewardship Program.



 Janesville is a Trail Community            Milton is a Trail Community


 


MAMMOTH HIKE CHALENGE 2022     October 2, 2022

Janesville to Milton Segment      OUT & BACK

  START 0905 Janesville Segment  near Walmart (E Rotamer Rd & Tanglewood Dr)          END 1030         Milton Segment (E Vincent & W High Street)             3.6 miles              Return to 1200 Janesville Segment near Walmart                             3.6 miles

                                                               TOTAL                                       7.2 miles

Average pace 2.5 mph.  Carried black backpack, sandwich, water, 1st aid kit, rain poncho, pepper spray, pullover windbreaker, map of IAT segment, forgot insect repellent.  Long pants, t shirt and long sleeve t shirt.  Removed long sleeve t-shirt around 1030.  I last hiked this segment of the trail on October, 24, 2018.

This indicates where I started and headed north.
You Are Here is where the trail begins to follow the old Chicago & Northwestern ROW

This is what the trail looks like
following the Chicago & Northwestern 
Right-of-Way
Starting from E Rotamer Rd & Tanglewood Dr the trail follows a marked concrete path across
a footbridge over Highway 26 (Milton Ave) and north along NW Rotamer Rd.  This is pitted outwash that the glacier deposited during its retreat  from an earlier
Johnstown advance.  The trail veers off the road along an abandoned right-of-way for the Chicago & Northwestern Railroad.  This route along NW Rotamer Rd descends into tunnel channel.  The tunnel channel carried a large flow of glacial meltwater from beneath the ice and was the source of much of the sand and gravel beneath the outwash plain that surrounds Janesville today.   The walk along the right-of -way is fairly level.    However, the elevation from the bottom of the tunnel channel rises from a low of 830 feet just south of Monogue Rd to over 900 feet at the position of the former ice margin.  Just like on my return route when I came back to NW Rotamer Rd the water under pressure was flowing uphill in the tunnel channel as it approached the ice edge.  When I started, I didn’t realize the walk was downhill until I returned.

TUNNEL CHANNEL:  Deep under glacial ice, rivers shaped the landscape.  Subglacial rivers cut into the underlying glacial bed, forming tunnel channels that remain today.  In Wisconsin, such channels occur only along the outermost edge of the late Wisconsin advance, where they cut through the moraines and end in large alluvial fans.  The channel bottoms rise and fall in elevation along their length, indicating that water carrying the sediment through the tunnels was under considerable pressure.  In many areas, the tunnels are partly filled with hummocky and gravel and in some places eskers. Are present along their floors.  The hummocky deposits and eskers formed after the actual channel, when the ice warmed and the sediment collapsed into the tunnel from above as the overlying debris rich ice melted.



This is a Leopold Bench  - built by volunteers and placed along the trail as a rest stop
There were at least seven of these along the old Chicago & Northwestern ROW
They are few and far between in the northern segments of the trail
where you can really appreciate a place to rest



THURSDAY – OCTOBER 6, 2022

WEATHER:  51 degrees sunny and clear at 0700; 56 at 8 am; high of 66 and cloudy at 1100 – by noon rain was in the air.

TRAVEL:  Burlington – Hwy 12 IAT Trailhead - Whitewater - Whitewater Lake - Burlington

 

ICE AGE TRAIL

MAMMOTH HIKE CHALLENGE 2022

WHITEWATER LAKE SEGMENT    OUT & BACK



START 0810           Whitewater Lake  Segment  STH 12 trailhead

END 1005               Leopold Bench at Whitewater Lake lookout       4.0 miles

Return to 1210 Whitewater Lake Segment STH 12 trailhead         4.0 miles

                                                        TOTAL                                       8.0 miles






The trailhead at US 12 is in the  upper right hand corner


Average pace 2.0. mph.  With a short stop at the Whitewater Lake lookout for a sandwich and when Bob M gave me a phone call from Philadelphia.  Carried black backpack, sandwich, water, 1st aid kit, rain poncho, pullover windbreaker, map of IAT segment, insect repellent.  Long pants, t shirt and long sleeve t shirt.  Removed long sleeve t-shirt around 0840 – worked up a sweat on the moraine.  I last hiked this segment of the trail on June 6, 2018 – most of it was in the rain.

Whitewater Segment of the Ice Age Trail



Looking north from the IAT to
 Whitewater - the ancient bed of 
Glacial Lake Scuppernong

IAT near the Hwy 12 


IAT moraine rocks
Since the IAT follows 
moraines - much of the trail
is R&R 'roots & rocks'
lots of places to trip

From the STH 12 trailhead, the trail goes west following the
Green Bay Lobe edge of theKettle Moraine.  The Kettle Moraine is basically where the Green Bayand Lake Michigan Lobes met.  This is high relief hummocky topography (step slopes and deep depressions) a lot of ups and downs - hills.  The low area to the west is the bed of glacial Lake Scuppernong.  The trail descends south into high pitted outwash to Easterly Rd.   Although the plain is quite flat – it is over 100 feet higher than the flat surface of glacial Lake Scuppernong




This is the flat part of the IAT near Easterly Road where the trail 
 is relatively flat pitted outwash 



Occasionally the high relief hummocky topography
gives way to a pleasant walk through a pine plantation

This is a view of Whitewater Lake from atop a Leopold Bench 


About one-third of a mile west of Easterly Rd the trail again enters high relief  hummocky
topography and crosses an
esker  before crossing CTH P.  This esker appears to connect to another running down the center of Whitewater Lake.  West of CTH P the trail runs into another broad esker.  Water in the glacial tunnels in which the eskers formed flowed to the southwest.    The depressions that hold Whitewater and Rice Lakes are kettles, but both lakes are held at their present levels by dams built in the mid 20th century.   Before the dams, Whitewater Lake was actually two small lakes separated by a wetland.  Rice Lake was a wetland.

KETTLES:  A kettle or kettle hole , is a depression formed when a mass of glacial ice that is buried in sand and gravel melts away.  As the buried block of ice slowly melts, the sediment above collapses into the void and produces a hole that may range from only a tens of feet across to several miles across,  If the ice block is simply dropped on a gravel surface, it will melt without leaving a trace.  Formation of kettles requires that the sediment be deposited on top of, or at least around, the block of ice, so they form where the substantial thickness of sand, gravel and till end up on top of the glacial ice.  Kettle formation often takes place along glacier margins where the flow of the ice carries sediment upward from the base of the glacier to the ice surface, where it accumulates.  This is called hummocky topographyKettles also from where outwash streams flowing from the glacier bury blocks of ice, eventually resulting pitted outwash.  Typically, moraines contain more and deeper kettles than the till surfaces between moraines.  



MONDAY – OCTOBER 10, 2022

WEATHER:  49 and sunny at 8 am, 57 and sunny at 11 am

TRAVEL:  Burlington –- UW Filed Station parking Waterville – Delafield -Burlington

 

ICE AGE TRAIL

MAMMOTH HIKE CHALLENGE 2022      OUT & BACK

Waterville/Lapham Peak Segment


START 0821 Lapham Peak  Segment  UW Field Station parking

END 01010             CTH D Waterville Segment                                      4.0 miles

Return to  Waterville Segment 1121 UW Field Station parking               4.0 miles

                                                               TOTAL                                       8.0 miles

 



Average pace 2.7. mph.   Carried black backpack, water, 1st aid kit, rain poncho, pullover windbreaker, map of IAT segment, insect repellent.  Long pants, t shirt and long sleeve t shirt.    I last hiked this segment of the trail on May 4, 2018.  The long sleeve shirt t-shirt came off at 9 am.

 


Waterville Segment
Waterville Segment 
CTH D
The
Waterville Segment of the Ice Age Trail begins on pitted
outwash
on
Waterville Road.  The connector from the Lapham Peak Segment is Waterville Road, which is on pitted outwash and till between the two segments.  Unlike much of the trail in this area, the Waterville Segment is west (Green Bay Lobe side) of the Kettle Moraine.  The landscape lacks the high relief hummocky topography that is in the Kettle Moraine to the east.  Instead, another geologic feature stands out: from Waterville Road, the trail rises across a little pitted outwash, then onto till, to the edge of the Niagara Escarpment.  There it follows the crest of more than 100 foot high, steep slope.  There are small outcrops of dolomite near the top of the slope.  Where the trail approaches CTH D, the escarpment is interrupted by a valley that may be a preglacial valley later reoccupied by a meltwater stream.



THURSDAY – OCTOBER 13, 2022

WEATHER:  43 at 0900 mostly sunny, wind from the west; 46 at 1130 mostly cloudy, rain clouds starting to appear

TRAVEL:  Burlington –- Delafield Park & Ride (I-94 & STH 83) -Burlington

 

ICE AGE TRAIL

MAMMOTH HIKE CHALLENGE 2022

Delafield Segment




START 0925           Delafield Segment  I-94 & STH 83

END 1035               Lapham Peak Segment I-94 & N Cushing Pk Rd       3.5 miles

Return to  Delafield Segment 1140 UI94 & STH 83                                 3.5 miles

                                                            TOTAL                                           7.0 miles

 

Cushing Park Road - 1LT Alonzo Cushing, was Commander of Battery A, 4th US Artillery at
Gettysburg.  He was a graduate of West Point and died defending the Union line against
the Picket/Trimble/Pettigrew Charge on July 3, 1863.  His family lived in Delafield. 

Most of this trail
follows WEPCO 
ROW now a bike trail
 in Waukesha County



Average pace 3.0 mph.   Carried black backpack, water, 1st aid kit, rain poncho, pullover windbreaker, pullover t-shirt, hat.  Long pants, t shirt and long sleeve t shirt pullover hooded sweatshirt, cap.    I last hiked this segment of the trail on
June 8, 2018.  The long sleeve t-shirt t-shirt came off at 9:55 am.

 


The STH 83 terminus of the IAT is on the floor of an abandoned river channel.  This mostly dry channel was the outlet for a high level of Pewaukee Lake when ice dammed the east end of the lake.  Water flowed to the south through the channel, which crosses I-94 at the intersection with STH 83.  Much of the channel at this location is now occupied by a shopping center.  This was called the Ethan Allen Channel.  The trail then climbs out of the channel and crosses a hummocky gravel upland.  Numerous shallow kettles are present.  This upland is the Kettle Moraine and it sits right on top of the Niagara Escarpment Green Bay lobe drumlins are in the west.  Throughout he City of Delafield the trail crosses outwash that is collapsed in places. 

Here the IAT goes through the Wisconsin Veterans Memorial Riverwalk
 A very pleasant walk any time of year, explaining our nations wars
and the honoring the soldiers who fought in them

 

An easy segment - mostly level - bike trail paved -  - only a part of it on Cushing Park Road


SATURDAY – OCTOBER 15, 2022

WEATHER:  a pleasant day

TRAVEL:  Burlington – Kenosha - Burlington

On Friday October 14, 2022 I attended the 75th Anniversary dinner of the Milwaukee Civil War Roundtable at the Kenosha Civil War Museum.  I registered in June  - dinner with Dave Thompson, Stone, and Peter and Phil Spaughy (speaker on Saturday) with his father, mother and wife

On Saturday October 15, 2022 I returned to the Kenosha Civil War Museum for the Great Lakes Civil War Forum.  I met many friends and acquaintances from the Milwaukee and Chicago Civil War Roundtables as well as some others. 


THE CIVIL WAR MUSEUM

UPPER MIDWEST EXPERIENCE



The Great Lakes Civil War Forum

Where the Fight Was Thickest:

The Campaigns of the Iron Brigade of the West

  

A Deadly Game of Bo-Peep: The Iron Brigade at South Mountain,
September 14, 1862
   -   Dr. Brian Matthew Jordan

On Sunday September 14, 1862, the Army of the Potomac notched three hard earned victories in the rugged passes of South Mountain.  One of the most inspiring moment of this first major combat of the Antietam Campaign involved a brigade of hearty Midwesterners, who ascending the old National Pike, forced Turner’s Gap.   

Brian Jordon – an academic from Texas – good presentation.  “A deadly game of Bo-Peep” is a quote from Rufus Dawes, who was LTC of the 6th Wisconsin at South Mountain

 

The Bloody Cornfield by Keith Rocco
September 17, 1862

Whoever Stood in front of the Corn Field at Antietam Needs no Praise
: The Black Hat Brigade at Antietam
   -   Scott D. Hartwig

The Battle of Antietam was not the costliest battle the western brigade of BG John Gibbon fought in the war, but for those who experienced its ferocity it was an unforgettable experience that no one who survived it ever wanted to repeat.  Nearly a year later, Rufus Dawes of the 6th Wisconsin, would write that he dreaded the very thought of the Antietam

Scott Hartwig is a former ranger and historian at Gettysburg Military Park.  “Whoever stood in front of the corn field at Antietam needs no praise” is also a quote from Rufus Dawes.  He provided a good detailed explanation of the Iron Brigade’s attack and the Texas Brigade counterattack in the cornfield.  As well and paying attention to the fact that artillery opened the battle and dominated much of it.

 

 

Boys, We Must Hold Our Colors on This Line of Lie Here Under Them – Phil Spaugy

The 19th Indiana is probably the least know of the Iron Brigade Regiments.  The veterans of the 19th had no authors such as Mickey Sullivan, Rufus Dawes, Jerome Watrous, or George Otis to write their regimental history.  But the other men who wore the Black Hats remembered them well.  Jerome Watrous of the 6th Wisconsin recalled, “The 19th Indiana Regiment became know as the “Ole Posey County” or “Swamp Hogs No. 19” and “every man of them did not care a goll darn how he was dressed, but all hell for a fight.”

The 19th Indiana brought 339 men to Gettysburg and by the end of July 1 had lost 27 killed, 133 wounded and 50 missing.  He ended with some explanation that of the Dan Troiani print “The Black Hat Brigade” and the uncasing of the colors.

"The Black Hats" - 19th Indiana at Gettysburg July 1, 1863


 

The Iron Brigade was strung out in defensive position above Willoughby Run on McPherson’s Ridge. The
Nineteenth Indiana was on the left with the Twenty-fourth Michigan, Seventh Wisconsin and Second Wisconsin extending the line to the north. The Sixth Wisconsin was detached and posted elsewhere. The Union line was outnumbered and overlapped

 

By mid-afternoon, the outnumbered Hoosiers were fighting for their lives, bending back under a heavy flank fire, and disappearing “like dew before the morning sun.” The Nineteenth Indiana carried two flags—a blue regimental presented by the ladies of Indianapolis and a national color requisitioned when a complementary national flag from 1861 was retired. Sgt. Burlington Cunningham, already once wounded, was carrying the national banner when hit a second time. Nearby, Color Corporal Abe Buckles also went down. Lieutenant Colonel William Dudley grabbed the national flag and was shot in the right shin—a wound that would cost him his leg. In the noise and smoke, Sgt. Maj. Asa Blanchard came up to take the flag, saying: “Colonel, you shouldn’t have done this. That was my duty. I shall never forgive myself for letting you touch that flag.” Eight Indiana color bearers were now down and half the regiment killed or wounded.

 

Under heavy fire from two advancing Confederate brigades, the Indiana flag—now in the hands of another man—fell yet again. Before Blanchard could reach it, however, Color Corporal David Phipps, who was carrying the Indiana regimental, scooped up the fallen national and was waving it with one hand. Then Phipps was wounded and fell on both flags. “The flag is down!” someone shouted and Captain William W. Macy yelled to a nearby private to “Go and get it!”  “Go to hell, I won’t do it,” said the soldier.

Macy, Lieutenant Crockett East, and Color Corporal Burr Clifford rolled Phipps off the flags. Aware the bright silk was attracting bullets, East furled the banner and got it into its case and was trying to wrap the tassels when he was shot and killed. Macy and Clifford finally got the two flags in the cases only to be confronted by an angry Blanchard, who demanded the flags. “No, there’s been enough men shot down with it,” said Macy, but Blanchard appealed to Colonel Samuel J. Williams and the colonel told Macy to turn over the flags. In a swirl of bullets, Blanchard stubbornly unfurled the national colors and tied the case around his waist, calling in a loud voice “Rally boys!” He was waving it when a bullet severed an artery in his thigh and he fell in a gush of blood, dying almost immediately. Clifford then picked up the national color and made a run for the town and safety.  The Iron Brigade line was soon swept away and the surviving Black Hats made their way through Gettysburg to the Federal rally point on Cemetery Hill. 

 

Camp Fire Memories of the Iron Brigade   -   Lance Herdegan

The four years of Civil War cast a long shadow over the surviving veterans of the Iron Brigade.  At first, they were too busy getting on with their lives and id not to give much thought of their days in uniform.  But the years passed and soon they were caught up in an overwhelming need to think of soldier days, seek out old comrades, and reflect on what had been accomplished.  They called their reunions “Camp-Fires” and the written accounts comprised much fo what is known today of the Iron Brigade.  Writers and researchers delight in finding these accounts, but often use only small segments after making decisions on their historical value.  The accounts themselves were often softened to spare readers, yet they hint at the truth of the war experience and provide an important glimpse of hwo the war and its memory affected the veterans and their families.

Lance is an old friend  . . . . . after the death of Alan Nolan, Lance is most likely ‘the authority’ on the Iron Brigade.  Not an academic, but an editor for Associated Press by trade,  I’ve known him since the early 90’s and invited him to speak at events for the 1-126th FA and 57th FA Brigade.


WEDNESDAY – OCTOBER 19, 2022

WEATHER:  36 degrees at 1045, 41 degrees at 1245, partly cloudy, brisk wind from the northwest

TRAVEL:  Burlington – CTH N Eagle Segment of the IAT - Burlington

This sign is on Hwy 59

ICE AGE TRAIL

MAMMOTH HIKE CHALLENGE 2022

Eagle Segment


START 1045           Eagle Segment  CTH N parking

END 1145               Brady’s’ Rocks                                                2.7 miles

Return to  1245 Eagle Segment CTH N parking                           2.7 miles

                                                  TOTAL                                          5.4 miles

Average pace 2.7 mph.  Carried black backpack, water, 1st aid kit, rain poncho, pullover windbreaker, extra long sleeved t-shirt, map of IAT segment.  Wore long pants, t shirt, long sleeve t shirt, hooded sweatshirt and cap.  I last hiked this segment of the trail on June 6, 2018 – most of it was in the rain.

View to the northwest  - the bed of glacial Lake Scuppernong


Eagle Segment


This segment of the IAT starts on pitted outwash at CTH N and going north crosses the lakebed of glacial Lake Scuppernong.  Brady’s Rocks, is an outcrop of the Silurian Dolomite that was mined in the 1880’s.  There is a significant difference between the angular limestone of the bedrock and the very rounded erratics left by the glacier.  This is right on the edge of the Niagara Escarpment.  The Kettle Moraine is to the east sitting on top of the Niagara Escarpment.




Brady's Rocks  - slabs of dolomite, bedrock - round boulders are glacial erratics
 

IAT Mammoth Challenge 2022 Patch



MAMMOTH HIKE CHALLENGE 2022

OCT 02   Janesville to Milton Segment            7.2

OCT 08   Whitewater Lake Segment                 8.0

OCT 10   Waterville Segment                            8.0

OCT 13   Delafield Segment                              7.0

OCT 19   Eagle Segment                                   5.4

IAT Trail Communities: 1 Janesville, 2 Milton, 3 Whitewater      35.6 miles

IAT Trail Community 4 Delafield                                                 10.0 bonus miles

                                                                          45.6 TOTAL MILES

Mammoth Challenge 2022


MAMMOTH CHALLENGE 2022 - MISSION COMPLETE

This should complete my entries for 2022.  I’m tempted to just close the blog.  However, next year starts off with a cruise from San Diego along the Mexican Riviera through the Panama Canal and ends in Fort Lauderdale.  That should complete any of my cruising ambitions . . . . . Who knows what the rest of 2023 will hold?




Christmas 2022








 

0 Comments:

Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]

<< Home